McCulloch Chain Saws

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Youve got a washer with rubber on it for lower av mount, shoulder bolt is for coil, yes. The other bolt with bent metal goes on the front of the starter cover next to oil tank, the little rubber/plastic peice with hole in it goes inside the oil cap.
 
Well, I got the PM800 back together. It all went pretty smoothly, but of course there were several things that had to be done a couple times because of forgetting something or doing something in the wrong order. Let's just say I'm really good at putting the tank/airbox onto the lower part of the engine now. Didn't even have any spare parts left over when I was done though. Checked compression and found that it was at 150psi, which seems good. Put gas in it and did a couple priming pulls and then cranked on it. It was firing in about 3 pulls and started up shortly after that. Seemed to run and sound good. After running for a couple minutes I shut it down to make some carb adjustments. After sitting for a couple minutes it started up again but the chain didn't want to turn very easily. Almost like the chain brake was partially applied. Unsure what that is about. Shut it down and I'll see if I can figure that out. Overall I'm quite happy that I was able to take a trashed old saw and (hopefully) restored it to nice condition. Here's a pic of the original piston just to remind folks how it started...

20170920_202835-XL.jpg


Rob
 
Ok, need some.e advice from the Mac gurus.
Had my 7-10 out today for its first real run since the rebuild. I put a tank of fuel through it and it seemed to be running pretty decent. Fiddled with the carb some here and there. Shut it off for about 2 hours to split what I had cut, refueled and started it back up to cut some more and it acted lean. High idle, little to no 4 stroking, and rpms hanging when I would let off the throttle. I shut it down so as not do do any damage and went to using my 10-10.
The saw is totally rebuilt, nos piston and rings, all new gaskets and seals, OEM kit in the SDC carb. We are only on about the third tank of fuel at this point. What do you guys think? Carb? Air leak?
It also seems down on power even when it was running "good" My hot rod 10-10 will cut circles around it easily and all it has done is an exhaust mod.
 
What chain Mark? I'm going to put a 36" on my CP125 and wasn't sure whether to go full comp or skip chain.
If its a strong runner any of the 125's will pull 48"+ full comp .404 chain in hardwoods no problem.60" isn't out of the question with skip tooth in softwoods.Couple years back had my 125C with a 42" rollernose buried in huge old White Oak,hardly even slowed that beast down,talk about a fun day!
 
Tim - full compliment .404 chipper. While it may not be a fast as a chisel chain, it kept cutting with almost no impact on performance after I bumped the sidewalk when I finished a cut. On the harder stuff I normally cut, I find a full compliment is much smoother than skip. I was ripping some elm blocks with skip chain on the Poulan 5400 and it took weeks before my elbow was fully recovered.

2 broke - I always start with the simple stuff, give the carburetor a thorough going over including a check of the fuel line. If you don't have the spring in the fuel line consider getting one to insure the line does not collapse. Rechecking for pressure/vacuum can't hurt and won't be too much trouble since you have the carburetor off anyway.

Mark
 
If its a strong runner any of the 125's will pull 48"+ full comp .404 chain in hardwoods no problem.60" isn't out of the question with skip tooth in softwoods.Couple years back had my 125C with a 42" rollernose buried in huge old White Oak,hardly even slowed that beast down,talk about a fun day!

Tim - full compliment .404 chipper. While it may not be a fast as a chisel chain, it kept cutting with almost no impact on performance after I bumped the sidewalk when I finished a cut. On the harder stuff I normally cut, I find a full compliment is much smoother than skip. I was ripping some elm blocks with skip chain on the Poulan 5400 and it took weeks before my elbow was fully recovered.

Mark

Thanks guys.
 
Man those 125s sound fun. Finaly got the scrap bin pm700 running and wow what an amazing noise these things put out its definitely cooler than the 800 noise. In need of a carb kit for it now I cant get it 2 run perfectly it just has a slight bog no matter where I set it are the oem kits on ebay ok or is there better aftermarket stuff?
 
What is the best way to block the exhaust on these ten series for pressure testing? Easiest way to pull the lower shroud?
 
What is the best way to block the exhaust on these ten series for pressure testing? Easiest way to pull the lower shroud?

Im a newb but from what I've learnt from reading far too much is to make a simple plate and some bicycle tube as a gasket. I haven't made one up yet but thats my plan
 
The real challenge on the 10 Series is doing this with the shroud in place since it covers up everything except the bolt holes for the muffler. If you can't make enough space to work by removing the screw in the bottom of the shroud, it will be necessary to loosen the tank assembly and taking the shroud out completely.

Mark
 
Well, I got the PM800 back together. It all went pretty smoothly, but of course there were several things that had to be done a couple times because of forgetting something or doing something in the wrong order. Let's just say I'm really good at putting the tank/airbox onto the lower part of the engine now. Didn't even have any spare parts left over when I was done though. Checked compression and found that it was at 150psi, which seems good. Put gas in it and did a couple priming pulls and then cranked on it. It was firing in about 3 pulls and started up shortly after that. Seemed to run and sound good. After running for a couple minutes I shut it down to make some carb adjustments. After sitting for a couple minutes it started up again but the chain didn't want to turn very easily. Almost like the chain brake was partially applied. Unsure what that is about. Shut it down and I'll see if I can figure that out. Overall I'm quite happy that I was able to take a trashed old saw and (hopefully) restored it to nice condition. Here's a pic of the original piston just to remind folks how it started...

Rob

To follow up on the chain issue...

For some reason the chain had tightened itself up after those few minutes of running. I loosened the bar nuts and then it could be pulled around freely again. But while I was trying to set the tension after that it would do the same thing repeatedly. If I got it just a bit too tight it would lock up. In order to get it to stay free-moving I had to have it adjusted a little looser than I would normally run a chain. I'm sure it has to do with the fact that the bar is ancient and the chain has seen its better days too. Now that the saw is running I will get a new bar and chain eventually.

I did use it for a while. Used it for what is probably the least appropriate thing you could do with a PM800... cut the sucker branches off all the maples and other trees on our property. My arms are still sore! But it ran and cut well! There is just a slight bog after idling for a short while when I go to give it gas again. A quick blip of the throttle and it clears up. I'm sure a little carb adjusting will make things better.

And why oh why do these Macs leak oil SO BADLY!! This restored PM800 and the running PM800 I just bought leak it like a sieve. I do have a new gasket I'm going to try on one of them but damn it sucks!!

Rob
 

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