Yea I had a we research and sort of seems too good to be true kind of stuff almost or maybe I just don't trust oil company's lol
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Whether you get it in pouches (1.8 or 3.2 ounce) or in bulk containers, you certainly are control of the mix ratio.
Mark
Mark
Yea exactly mix up rich and then be the judge if its fouling up or excessive smoke kinda things. I did some more forum surfing but a few hours more would be needed before a good solid pattern could be made but a few say there has been no issues after years of use. But you know what forums are like got to read and read lots.
Stihl say run there saws at 50 to 1 and to me that's crap why just why run it so thin I mean what's the point in running it short what are you saving 5 bux a month just not worth the risk a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke after all
Stihl say run there saws at 50 to 1 and to me that's crap why just why run it so thin I mean what's the point in running it short what are you saving 5 bux a month just not worth the risk a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke after all
I usually mix my 40:1 at like 36:1 and my 30:1 at 28:1. I use a Ratio Rite to mix so I get the same mix each time. I do not like those pre measured bottles. I don't trust them plus you do not ever get all the oil out of them. I take my Ratio Rite and put my oil in and then after I pour it into my jug I take fuel that I am going to pour into my jug and first pour it into my Ratio Rite, swish it around to get the rest of the oil out of the Ratio Rite so I have all the oil I measured out of the Ratio Rite and into my jug. Do the makers of those little bottles of oil put in just the right oil to mix 40:1? Are they taking into account that some is going to stick to the sides of the bottle? Do they take into account that in cold weather when that oil is thick that less of it is going to pour out of that bottle? My guess is no.
How much oil is left in that little bottle after you poured it into your jug? What about when it's cold out and the oil in that little bottle is cold and stiff, Do you get it all out?
The way I do it you get all the oil you measured into your jug.
Brian
How much oil is left in that little bottle after you poured it into your jug? What about when it's cold out and the oil in that little bottle is cold and stiff, Do you get it all out?
The way I do it you get all the oil you measured into your jug.
Brian
I am not as precise as Brian, but he gave me one of the Ratio Rite beakers - it’s the cat’s meow for mixing fuel at different ratios. Ron
I've been using Amsoil for just about a yr.now.It's all synthetic & a little pricey,but I think it's well worth it.It burns nice & clean & leaves no residue.I've heard some guys who are using it say it's the best.The recommended ratio is 80:1.I mix it just a little richer.
Ed
Ed
Doers anyone here have a good carry handle for a 7-10?The saw I got from OPE was a little beat up & ,istreated.Someone over-tightened the bar nut & now the bar stud just turns around because they must've rounded off the edges on the inside of the oil tank.I had this happen to a 610 last summer.What a job,had to tear the whole saw apart & gety a new oil tank.The handle was Mickey Moused back together using pop rivets & nails put into a piece of pipe.Whoever did that should be horse whipped.If you're going to do a homemade fabrication of something at least do a good job of it.I need the new handle (used) & in good shape.I looked for one on Feebay & found one,but it won't last long,it's already rotting apart,& they have the audacity to ask $31 or M/O.
Ed
Ed
Just chuck any old 10 series handle on it Ed easy as you must have 1 around somewhere or someone will have one. Hell I'd send you my spare however the shipping would make it silly. Aww and Amsoil smells amazing
Thanks Jethro! I had no idea that a 10-10 handle would fit on a 7-10.I do have an extra 10-10 handle laying around here,I'kk just swap it over.
Now for the stripped out bar stud,I've been told that the oil tank is part of the crank case assembly,.Would you know anything about that?
Ed
Now for the stripped out bar stud,I've been told that the oil tank is part of the crank case assembly,.Would you know anything about that?
Ed
Yup ok so dump the oil out n pop the cap and reveal the hidden truth behind lol.
Hopefully it's not too bad but here's a pic I dare say its had the wee step broken off if the other stud is not turning I'd just weld a little bit of something to the turning one depending on why it is turning.
Very simple engine it's a cylinder with a half a crank case on the bottom and the other half has an oil tank and bar mount on the end of that then the starter mounts on 1 side and a tank on top. Amazingly simple ,light ,durable if the screws stay tight no av to need care for nothing just a great saw design
The whole idea is I have to tear the whole saw down because of a moron who over-tightened something.I wonder if he did the same thing the the oil plug on his vehicle?Dumb ass!I'll get into it,don't know when just yet.I must attend to her ugly step-sister first - the 10-10 that came with her.No bar plates,needs a bar & chain (I already have that),& most likely a carb rebuild.
I went to the milk hose place today,& they have nothing there that'll fit ther handle.My next place to go to is an hydraulic hose co.Hopefully they have something that'll work.
Ed
I went to the milk hose place today,& they have nothing there that'll fit ther handle.My next place to go to is an hydraulic hose co.Hopefully they have something that'll work.
Ed
Well I can help with the hose it's odd they have nothing. You don't need to tear apart the saw just the tank lid easy as 1 screw and see what's inside. Its kind of fun in a way fixing people's screw ups on these old things my last 10-10 I got had rounded bar nuts that was fun theres not a lot of room for options to get them off so used a dremel and carefully cut them off.
I just did a search online for the milk hose & I can get it in a 100 ft.roll for $169,no thanks.Let me try the hydraulic hose place firstI was going to buy about 8 ft.,enough to do three saw handles.I know if I search enough,or talk to a farmer around here I can get the hose I need.I've still got connections.Lol
As for the bar stud,I misunderstood what you said earlier.Yeah,taking the cover off might be all I need to do,but the stud is just spinning around on the inside because they have a poor set up on how the stud is mounted in the tank.The tank is made of magnesium like the rest of the saw.When you over-tighten the stud it starts to round off the squared corners that hold it in place.Replacing the stud won't do any good.You usually end up replacing the tank,if there's even one available.
Ed
As for the bar stud,I misunderstood what you said earlier.Yeah,taking the cover off might be all I need to do,but the stud is just spinning around on the inside because they have a poor set up on how the stud is mounted in the tank.The tank is made of magnesium like the rest of the saw.When you over-tighten the stud it starts to round off the squared corners that hold it in place.Replacing the stud won't do any good.You usually end up replacing the tank,if there's even one available.
Ed
Haha ok make sure you can get it on the handle though I gave up with the proper 5mm wall thicknes milk hose and went with the 4mm. Vinny's trick with the compressor mite do it though.
Get that cover off the tank Ed it's bugging me what's happened to it are the studs same length? It may have just moved inwards a bit. Is there a crack between the studs you can see? If not is should be fixable just by welding them together it's not really little so even a stick and a 2.5 or a 3.2 electrode will be easy enough. Get some pictures up it will take 5 min
Get that cover off the tank Ed it's bugging me what's happened to it are the studs same length? It may have just moved inwards a bit. Is there a crack between the studs you can see? If not is should be fixable just by welding them together it's not really little so even a stick and a 2.5 or a 3.2 electrode will be easy enough. Get some pictures up it will take 5 min
Looks like I've got something to do tomorrow other than wait around for parts.Lol I'll take a handle off a spare 10-10 too & see how that works out .
Ed
Ed
Jethro,here's a pic of an oil tank on Ebay.
Ed
Ed
Hopefully an easy fix
Believe the oil tank is aluminum. I doubt the stud is the problem. Getting the tank prepped is probably harder than the fix. One day Brian and I are going to tackle a cracked 8200 tank with one of those low temp brazing rods.
Ron
Ron
I've been meaning to ask what happened with that Ron.
Too many projects, too little time. Ron
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