McCulloch Chain Saws
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No DSP indicates a 790 but the bore is wrong, still a mystery.
Mark
Mark
Not really since any the carburetor or muffler could have been changed, the bar mount was the same on all of the large frame saws.
Mark
Mark
66019 is a 101 blockNot sure if this is the correct place for a"please help Identify this old McCulloch" Moderator may want to relocate.
Ive got this oldMac w
ith a bore of 2.27" and
stamping of 66019 on the case. Any info appreciated.
Good catch Ray. The 101 is rather sought after.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Guys! The knowledge here on this site is awesome.
Got it from a family of an old timber faller here in Bend, OR that passed. He used to cut up in Alaska too. Fuel tank is rotted out but all else is salvageable. I guess I'll seek out a 790 fuel tank (I'll see if it has a part number on it). Mark, Ray -thanks again!
Got it from a family of an old timber faller here in Bend, OR that passed. He used to cut up in Alaska too. Fuel tank is rotted out but all else is salvageable. I guess I'll seek out a 790 fuel tank (I'll see if it has a part number on it). Mark, Ray -thanks again!
Yukon Stihl has an MC20 stamped 66019 2085
MC75 was 2.25" bore, 120cc
MC75 was 2.25" bore, 120cc
Guess this is why the titan 70 wasn't oiling after replacing the lines? If any knows of a similar oiler gear let me know. I'm probably gonna buy a 40-50 titan oiler and see if I can substitute the gear. 13 splines .
As you likely know, the Titan saws with the upright cylinders were "made in an Italian McCulloch factory" so it is most likely there is another saw out there that uses the same part(s). Maybe someone over in the Olympic, Olympik, Oleo Mac, Emac, … thread can shed some light on the subject.
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-blitz-folux-spartan-spartacus-thread.160468/
The McCulloch IPL that I have does not break the pump down into parts but contains one part number (229303) for the whole oil pump assembly. The 35-40 pump looks similar in the IPL drawings but carries a different part number. The 50-57 pump appears to be quite different in design judging from the IPL drawings.
Mark
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...-blitz-folux-spartan-spartacus-thread.160468/
The McCulloch IPL that I have does not break the pump down into parts but contains one part number (229303) for the whole oil pump assembly. The 35-40 pump looks similar in the IPL drawings but carries a different part number. The 50-57 pump appears to be quite different in design judging from the IPL drawings.
Mark
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I saw a new one today, I was fixing the oiler on a PM700. The manual oiler was stuck and no oil comes out with saw running or pushing button.
I’ll save you the couple hours of cussing as I took the saw apart several times. Turns out that the saw would oil fine with the manual button until I started it and then the manual oiler would lock up. I would remove the auto oiler and clean it out and reinstall just to have the same thing happen again. I ran kerosene through it and it seemed fine. I could hear the check balls rattle after cleaning. Finally I threw the auto oiler in the trash and installed another one and it works great.
I have literally rebuilt hundreds of Macs back in the day and haven’t had that happen.
I hope this helps someone one day.
I’ll save you the couple hours of cussing as I took the saw apart several times. Turns out that the saw would oil fine with the manual button until I started it and then the manual oiler would lock up. I would remove the auto oiler and clean it out and reinstall just to have the same thing happen again. I ran kerosene through it and it seemed fine. I could hear the check balls rattle after cleaning. Finally I threw the auto oiler in the trash and installed another one and it works great.
I have literally rebuilt hundreds of Macs back in the day and haven’t had that happen.
I hope this helps someone one day.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I figured I’m not the only one here that’s had that problem. I was hoping someone can give me a breakdown of how that happens. I lost patience to dismantle the auto oiler and inspect b
I don't have much luck with the auto oilers eather I have a 7-10 that would oil a 50 inch bar and won't turn down I have an alloy case 1 that's perfect and the rest kinda dribble a bit or not at all. I pull them out they seem to pump fine in the hand but on the saw na piss all at all I'm manually oiling a 32 inch bar at the mo too and that's getting rather annoying mite flog the exxon valdez 7-10 pump for that 1
The other thing is dam that spring clip thing is a pain in the ass to get right jeez.
I think the variations in the automatic oil pump are related to how well the phenolic diaphragm fits in the bore of the pump body, the better the fit the more efficient the pumping action with the change in crankcase pressure/vacuum.
Joey - I ran into a similar issue on the Mini Mac automatic pumps. It was all related to how far the metal insert was pressed inside the pump body, it the holes didn't align properly the oil could not pass and it would pressurize to the point it locked up. Worked fine out of the saw since you (I) was moving the piston by hand and going past the opening with the small metal rod (piston assembly) but in the saw it would not work. I was reminded of a Service Bulletin I saw that described exactly how far the insert was to be pressed in (apparently a number of units left the factory with the inserts improperly positioned) and I finally took a close look at it. The 10 Series plastic body pumps have a similar insert so I suppose it is possible for them to be incorrectly positioned. Pull that one back out of the trash can and see if you can see anything amiss.
First photo show the Mini Mac automatic pump "exploded view"
Second photo shows the insert inside the plastic body on the 10 Series pump
Mark
Joey - I ran into a similar issue on the Mini Mac automatic pumps. It was all related to how far the metal insert was pressed inside the pump body, it the holes didn't align properly the oil could not pass and it would pressurize to the point it locked up. Worked fine out of the saw since you (I) was moving the piston by hand and going past the opening with the small metal rod (piston assembly) but in the saw it would not work. I was reminded of a Service Bulletin I saw that described exactly how far the insert was to be pressed in (apparently a number of units left the factory with the inserts improperly positioned) and I finally took a close look at it. The 10 Series plastic body pumps have a similar insert so I suppose it is possible for them to be incorrectly positioned. Pull that one back out of the trash can and see if you can see anything amiss.
First photo show the Mini Mac automatic pump "exploded view"
Second photo shows the insert inside the plastic body on the 10 Series pump
Mark
What's your temperature this time of the year? As Brian said around here is is too hot to enjoy cutting. Ron
Hi fellas,I picked up this real nice PM700 on Ebay last week.It runs beautifully,but has a broken chain brake handle.I took the recoil off to see if it needed to be cleaned inside.This saw was by far the dirtiest in the recoil of all the saws I've ever taken apart.Without exaggerating it had 1/2 in.of oil & sawdust on the inside of that poor recoil.Here are some pics.I put a 24 in.B&C on it.
Ed
Ed
Nice lo0ker there. Its amazing how many chain saws,push mowers,garden tractors,riding mowers & other Outdoor Power Equipment I've seen either for sale or just sitting in garages/sheds that have had obviously no regular maintenance or even a cleaning in 20,30,40 years of use. 
Its no wonder so many owners will say "It just wont start,I don't know what to do" or "It run good yesterday/last week/month/year so it should be just fine...."
Its no wonder so many owners will say "It just wont start,I don't know what to do" or "It run good yesterday/last week/month/year so it should be just fine...."
Umm at the moment -2 -4 C about the coldest it gets in the morning by the coast inland -10 and ruthless frosts and snow is normal and if the sun comes out it mite make 10 or 15c during the day at the warmest. If a southerly whips up it will feel like 0 all day as the southerly comes straight from Antarctica. Daylight at 8am dark at 5:30. Other than short days it's a nice time to be cutting last year I got heat stroke cutting in 35c so yeah if it's too hot then it's too hot
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