Bar's upside down...
Sorry, couldn't resist!
Nice lookin' saw! Looks like you got a buddy there - that's yer auto pump. He depresses while you cut hehe!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Bar's upside down...
Sorry, couldn't resist!
Nice lookin' saw! Looks like you got a buddy there - that's yer auto pump. He depresses while you cut hehe!
There is something about your photos that look really darn good. The saw looks good too ofcourse
Your pictures do look cool, vintage like coloring. I watched a video with your name mentioned in it. A A RON , Is that the saw? What was done to it? Im very curious. There was no follow up. As for the oiler, sounds like the little check is stuck.
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks guys..
Are you talking about Jereme Bell's (Bellhopper)'s video of the recent SP81 teardown? That one is my saw. He still has it right now if that's what you are talking about! I also sent him those custom black McCulloch hats.. I made and wear the same ones!
Here is the SP81 that Jereme Bell has and is porting for me:
Here is the SP81E in the pictures:
Indeed i am. I was watching his video and he said a a ron ribicki. I thought , i know that name from the forum! Thought it was neat. Please let us know how the saw he has of yours does when you get it back. Thats just cool!!
Thanks! I think i found a Mac Cat 2.3, or like you said a 3818. If it has spark and the cylinder looks ok I'd assume it's worth fixing?
Oh man I want one of those hats so bad!
Yeah me too!
As you've probably surmised by now, they're a dime a dozen cheapie that comes in all sorts of model designations. Decent little runners for what they are and easy to work on. Usually only need fuel/oil lines and filters (and cleaned up) to get running. Carbs are iffy from saw to saw but usually just dirty from the fuel filter falling off the end of the rotted fuel line.
The housing comes apart to get to the oiler and the line that's probably split. The screws on the starter side are obvious but there's also one on the clutch side that isn't. Pull the carb (for inspection and line replacement) and separate the housing halves carefully. The trigger, spring, and lockout lever should stay in place so you can see how everything goes back together after they do fall out. LOL Pop the flywheel to get to the oil pump and lines where you'll likely find the problem. 'Bout a 15 minute job to get that far. Going back together is just as easy with routing of the lines between the housing halves being the only major thing you may overlook if you haven't done one of these before.
Parts and carcasses for these are everywhere with most parts being interchangeable among all the variants. Not a saw I'd count on to fill the truck with firewood all season, but serviceable saws for smaller stuff nonetheless.
Great info, thanks!
Sounds like a good el-cheapo saw to throw around, hopefully I could have it running for the cost of a bar and chain. Better than letting it go to the landfill!
Poge - Kevin's saw made 130 PSI when I put it back together, I can't imagine what happened after that? Bob Johnson called me yesterday to check on our progress...
On the 2-10, the cylinder was out of round and had 0.002" or so taper, since I had the oversize piston on hand I thought I might as well go all out on the saw. While it was out to AWOL I picked up another cylinder/crankcase from customchainsawparts and put it back together with that one so I still have the over bored cylinder and piston in a box in the attic.
MacAttack - As Poge informed you, those saws aren't too bad to work on and chances are the oil and fuel lines have all disintegrated so plan on replacing everything while you have it apart. Bob Johnson has complete short blocks for around $50 if you wanted to make it like new again again.
Aaron - really nice photo of the SP81.
I need some volunteers to come and spend a few weeks in Dike helping clean saws so I can move them over to the museum....
Mark
On the 2-10, the cylinder was out of round and had 0.002" or so taper, since I had the oversize piston on hand I thought I might as well go all out on the saw. While it was out to AWOL I picked up another cylinder/crankcase from customchainsawparts and put it back together with that one so I still have the over bored cylinder and piston in a box in the attic.
MacAttack - As Poge informed you, those saws aren't too bad to work on and chances are the oil and fuel lines have all disintegrated so plan on replacing everything while you have it apart. Bob Johnson has complete short blocks for around $50 if you wanted to make it like new again again.
Aaron - really nice photo of the SP81.
I need some volunteers to come and spend a few weeks in Dike helping clean saws so I can move them over to the museum....
Mark
Well, I'm tempted to just re-ring the thin-ringed 85239 that was in it and slap it back together to start from scratch again. Bob thinks we're nuts (at least me) and is standing by his theory of an air leak being responsible for the idling problem. The wrong piston theory is out the window after finding out Steve's 6-10A and CP70 are running thin ringed 85239's with the three fingered transfer cylinders. And I'm probably really reaching when it comes to thinking that a couple thou over Mac spec on piston clearance could wreak such havoc. After all, it is a Mac. Would sorta like to get some opinions on that much slop, though..., should anyone care to chime in.
Hi,
Always like to keep an eye on the Mac thread, and little I find I can add to most topic with my experience, however I can say on Mk1 Danarm 55 ( Mac 1-10 clone) worn cylinders (cast iron) play havoc with idle and mixture making impossible to tune in an idle and cause sodden air filters due to spit back. .007"+ is too much I would suggest.
Roland.
Thank you for your input. FWIW, Bob J. agrees with you wholeheartedly. He also happened to have a new 87681 chrome bore cylinder on the shelf for a very reasonable price (less than it would cost for an over sized piston and boring the existing cylinder) that I'll probably commit to if it will take the new 85241 rings I just got for the 85239 piston. Hafta go review that to make sure.
No more messin' around with this thing and it's only going back together one more time while I have it. I only hope the cylinder is at least the two finger transfer port version so I can experience the "big difference" a 7-10 is supposed to have in performance over a PM700. Otherwise, it'll just be another PM700 with old clothes..........., and that will be very disappointing.
No more messin' around with this thing and it's only going back together one more time while I have it. I only hope the cylinder is at least the two finger transfer port version so I can experience the "big difference" a 7-10 is supposed to have in performance over a PM700. Otherwise, it'll just be another PM700 with old clothes..........., and that will be very disappointing.
Sounds like a plan to move forward. Aside, I have acquired another PM700 and I feel a port job coming on. If a pm700 responds like the MK3 Danarm 55 I did a few years back we could be in for some fun. Trouble is if it works out well, the rest are going to gather dust.
It seems to me compared to modern saws, these Macs have shorter intake duration and shorter intake tracts. The other timings being comparable. We need to time up all of these various 70 CC 10 series variants to understand and compare the timing differences / cylinder designs in this range.
Roland.
All you'd need are saws with each design, a degree wheel, and some spare time. Sounds like a project for Vinny when he's done with the dishes tonight!
So the 7-10 big open transfers vs 7-10 bridged transfers and the 700 cylinders with bridges we are still assuming the porting difference is that transfer shape. It really would be good to get them timed by someone. I'd like to know if the points 7-10 bridged transfer is the same as the electronic bridged 700. They look the same but perhaps the big "difference" between 7-10 and 700 is more down to timing as apposed to the transfer.
If it turns out no and they are infact same same then grab a dremel and remove that bridge. Was also thinking could hog out the 3 finger cast transfer into a big open also.
Perhaps mac put the bridge in for engine life.
The interesting thing is the more desirable bridged 82cc cylinder vs the open older type is the opposite of what we see in the 70s. Was chatting with Vinny (after the dishes) and he mentioned how the later feels like it has more compression. Perhaps the 70s power differences is really from something else and the transfers are not it
If it turns out no and they are infact same same then grab a dremel and remove that bridge. Was also thinking could hog out the 3 finger cast transfer into a big open also.
Perhaps mac put the bridge in for engine life.
The interesting thing is the more desirable bridged 82cc cylinder vs the open older type is the opposite of what we see in the 70s. Was chatting with Vinny (after the dishes) and he mentioned how the later feels like it has more compression. Perhaps the 70s power differences is really from something else and the transfers are not it
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