McCulloch Chain Saws

[Yotaismygame]

Hey guys I'm working on a SP60 right now and I need a few parts. Basically all gaskets, intake boot, starter housing(appears to be the same as the 10-10 line. Is that true?). Some of this is available on ebay but I thought I would ask here first.

Also aside from going through this saw it's getting ported. Any advice on that would be great. Will the points ignition keep up with the modifications? On the exhaust there is a bridge for ring support. I'm not sure why mac thought it was necessary, majority of the saws on the market if not all have no ring support on the exhaust side. I'd like to grind it out. Also what is up with there being no ring pin locators on the piston? I sure wouldn't want the ring spinning around and putting the ring end in a bad spot.

 

[MacAttack]

Hey guys I'm working on a SP60 right now and I need a few parts. Basically all gaskets, intake boot, starter housing(appears to be the same as the 10-10 line. Is that true?). Some of this is available on ebay but I thought I would ask here first.

Also aside from going through this saw it's getting ported. Any advice on that would be great. Will the points ignition keep up with the modifications? On the exhaust there is a bridge for ring support. I'm not sure why mac thought it was necessary, majority of the saws on the market if not all have no ring support on the exhaust side. I'd like to grind it out. Also what is up with there being no ring pin locators on the piston? I sure wouldn't want the ring spinning around and putting the ring end in a bad spot.

View attachment 830085View attachment 830086View attachment 830087View attachment 830088

I'm in the process of putting together an SP40 and was going to ask the same question about the rings. The service manual just says to install them with the gaps 180 degrees from each other?

But should they be oriented opposite (90 degrees) from the intake and exhaust ports?

 

[mogulmasher]

Yota, check out the bellhopper on YouTube, he does a lot of porting on Macs. Seems as though I recall him saying it was a bad idea to take the bridge out. Believe he said rings won't last long if you do.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Jethro,


I am wary of doing much to these transfers for now. In my experience on other projects, its easy to make fuel consumption go crazy, which I reason is down to critical detail of direction as well as more general timing detail. As this is a first stab at the 700 - easy to revisit transfers if needed.

Roland.

Absolutely understand. Was also asking about transfers as they will be the hardest thing to grind without proper tools. People may poke fun at porting with a dremel but that's all most of us have.

Now you guys have me thinking. I have this spare 10-10s parts saw with what looks like a good complete block with good compression. What chassis parts will give me the lightest set up? Maybe my 1-10 or 2-10 would be a good choice to canabilize?

The 1 or 2-10 will be very light the thing that will make it a pain in the bum is the carb/airbox setup. SDC Still can be done just some pissing about. The choke and bracket to hold the air lid. I haven't tried the non spit back type mount yet but it seemed to high. The Choke really needs to be built as a slider and remove the butterfly. Also will need to drill and tap new holes for the carb.

It seems as though any pre 77ish Macs are light so you could just piece together a saw from spare bits of all sorts. I think the flat top 10-10 tank is a touch smaller than the round top easy filter so could be some weight there too but then the domed air filter becomes the splinter in ya toe lol

Hey guys I'm working on a SP60 right now and I need a few parts. Basically all gaskets, intake boot, starter housing(appears to be the same as the 10-10 line. Is that true?). Some of this is available on ebay but I thought I would ask here first.

Also aside from going through this saw it's getting ported. Any advice on that would be great. Will the points ignition keep up with the modifications? On the exhaust there is a bridge for ring support. I'm not sure why mac thought it was necessary, majority of the saws on the market if not all have no ring support on the exhaust side. I'd like to grind it out. Also what is up with there being no ring pin locators on the piston? I sure wouldn't want the ring spinning around and putting the ring end in a bad spot.

View attachment 830085View attachment 830086View attachment 830087View attachment 830088

Hey yota cool stuff man hope ya keep us updated with that saw. The no pins for the rings and exhaust bridge combo is a concern the bigger 70ccs with no bridge have pins so the ring end never winds up in that big hole. When I pulled down a 54cc it had a ring end sitting right in the exhaust port now had there been no bridge I'm sure it would catch the ring.

Wait to see what the other chaps say first but yeah just a thought. That's also a tricky cylinder to find.

The gaskets and bits n pieces sort of fit into two families. AV and rigid Pretty sure the 82cc boot will fit but could be wrong. Poge probably could help with his pile of IPLs

 

[mogulmasher]

Jethro, yes I think there is a bit less weight with the flat top like my 10-10a has. That saw I run a lot and actually prefer to run in the wood pile vs a 10-10s because to me it just handles way better. Finding a filter is a pain though.

I've got a spare Pro 10-10 parts saw as well. Maybe tank/airbox and tins from that combined with a short non-brake clutch cover is the ticket for a nice 10-10s build? Also thoughts on most free flowing muffler? Does a pancake muffler or the style on my 1-10 and 2-10 offer any more flow? The stock Reed style muffler on 10-10s does seem to have the most volume of all 54/57 saws, so maybe it's best to stick to it.

 

[Yotaismygame]

I've got the IPL already. Haven't done much digging yet. Just tore it down last night. Intake is done, I widened it and smooth it out. Won't be moving it. Case compression stock didn't feel all that great so lowering it won't help. I don't see any reason to move the transfers. With a blow down of 19 that seems good to me. The port timing stock is this: 105.5 124.5 62. Pretty standard numbers for a 60cc saw. I will be doing a welded pop up on this saw. Bellgobber is wrong about ring life. I do understand the bridge being there since no pins are present but in general rings sliding over ports is just fine. what 99% of saws do this now with no problems? Really a bummer though to leave that bridge there. Exhaust port is tiny. I've ported plenty of saws and do it on a regular bases, just never on a mac. Another member talked me into working on this SP60 for him.

 

[RolandM]

Absolutely understand. Was also asking about transfers as they will be the hardest thing to grind without proper tools. People may poke fun at porting with a dremel but that's all most of us have.




The 1 or 2-10 will be very light the thing that will make it a pain in the bum is the carb/airbox setup. SDC Still can be done just some pissing about. The choke and bracket to hold the air lid. I haven't tried the non spit back type mount yet but it seemed to high. The Choke really needs to be built as a slider and remove the butterfly. Also will need to drill and tap new holes for the carb.

It seems as though any pre 77ish Macs are light so you could just piece together a saw from spare bits of all sorts. I think the flat top 10-10 tank is a touch smaller than the round top easy filter so could be some weight there too but then the domed air filter becomes the splinter in ya toe lol


Hey yota cool stuff man hope ya keep us updated with that saw. The no pins for the rings and exhaust bridge combo is a concern the bigger 70ccs with no bridge have pins so the ring end never winds up in that big hole. When I pulled down a 54cc it had a ring end sitting right in the exhaust port now had there been no bridge I'm sure it would catch the ring.

Wait to see what the other chaps say first but yeah just a thought. That's also a tricky cylinder to find.

The gaskets and bits n pieces sort of fit into two families. AV and rigid Pretty sure the 82cc boot will fit but could be wrong. Poge probably could help with his pile of IPLs

Yes,
Doing this sort of thing you need a pile of parts saws to play with. Also you have to be careful, as I get onto later.
Today I ran up the PM 555 with the newly rebuilt carb. Massive improvement but still not perfect. Low screw out 1 1/2 turns and speed changes on tilting. I built this about 3 years ago, and it had a million miles on it before I got it, so time for a bit more than a blow off with the airline. Drive side seal leaking and exhaust loose. I know the seals were not changed then, and just now hardened. 5/8 X 7/8 X 1/8" for drive end with double lip ordered. The exhaust rattling - screws loosened off - but and here is the but. I noticed that compared to the 700 the 555 has less fin depth and as I had fitted the complete exhaust off a Danarm 55 there was a big gap between the cowl and the block which means cooling air has an easy route rather than being forced through the fins. This space is occupied on the 555 by the horizontal pancake style exhaust, and so a simple swap should of ended in disaster. I have got away with it. Dug out the pancake reed and will port it as best it can be whist waiting for seals. So a reminder about keeping awake with this fun.
On the Pro Mac 700 here is some intake port pic's. Extra timing comes by shortening the piston skirt, but the effort here is to try and make transition from round carb to oval intake as smooth and gradual as possible, but not make everything too big.

Roland.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Also thoughts on most free flowing muffler? Does a pancake muffler or the style on my 1-10 and 2-10 offer any more flow? The stock Reed style muffler on 10-10s does seem to have the most volume of all 54/57 saws, so maybe it's best to stick to it.

I'll be keeping muffler housing but ditching the whole outer assembly and fabricating my own. If you guys want to follow along visit my youtube channel. Link is in my sig.

 

[Yotaismygame]

 

[Yotaismygame]

Yes,
Doing this sort of thing you need a pile of parts saws to play with. Also you have to be careful, as I get onto later.
Today I ran up the PM 555 with the newly rebuilt carb. Massive improvement but still not perfect. Low screw out 1 1/2 turns and speed changes on tilting. I built this about 3 years ago, and it had a million miles on it before I got it, so time for a bit more than a blow off with the airline. Drive side seal leaking and exhaust loose. I know the seals were not changed then, and just now hardened. 5/8 X 7/8 X 1/8" for drive end with double lip ordered. The exhaust rattling - screws loosened off - but and here is the but. I noticed that compared to the 700 the 555 has less fin depth and as I had fitted the complete exhaust off a Danarm 55 there was a big gap between the cowl and the block which means cooling air has an easy route rather than being forced through the fins. This space is occupied on the 555 by the horizontal pancake style exhaust, and so a simple swap should of ended in disaster. I have got away with it. Dug out the pancake reed and will port it as best it can be whist waiting for seals. So a reminder about keeping awake with this fun.
On the Pro Mac 700 here is some intake port pic's. Extra timing comes by shortening the piston skirt, but the effort here is to try and make transition from round carb to oval intake as smooth and gradual as possible, but not make everything too big.View attachment 830121View attachment 830122

Roland.

Will the carb support opening up the intake tract? Can open up the intake as much as you want but if the carb won’t flow it, it won’t make a difference.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Will the carb support opening up the intake tract? Can open up the intake as much as you want but if the carb won’t flow it, it won’t make a difference.

Considering that the carb can support an 80cc/88cc saw I'd say he's good.

 

[rwoods]

North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Brian, Lee and I spent about 5 hours at the lot today. I ran two tanks through my 125C before using up my two sharp chains, three or four tanks through my 800 before using up my only sharp chain, four tanks through Brian's 800, two tanks through his 805 and a few tablespoons through his 125C before it threw the chain twice. I think maybe it was getting me back for trading it to Brian without a playmate as the other two saws were perfectly content with me running them again.

After running my 125 almost endlessly and then swapping to my 800 that seems to spend more time on the tailgate getting refilled than cutting, I can see why there are stories of loggers not liking the PM850 on a PNW landing due to short run times.

Lee at work on our biggest splitter.


Brian giving his 125C a workout.


My 125C after using up it last sharp chain.


Funny that there are at least three relatively new MS661s at the lot, all but one run by folks far younger than Brian and me and we keep being asked to come cut the big stuff. One of these days I am going to grab one of the 661s just to see if it is the saw or sawyer. I know it is not shoveling off hard work because all these guys work hard.

Brian ran his Chinacom 660 a little today, but said he always gravitates back to his 800.

Be Safe Out There.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.

 

[rwoods]

Considering that the carb can support an 80cc/88cc saw I'd say he's good.

I believe at one time Mark posted a chart showing the various carb sizes for MACs. If I recall correctly, some of the 70 cc and under ten series had carbs as big as the large frame saws. My memory could be wrong but that is what I recall.

Ron

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Brian, Lee and I spent about 5 hours at the lot today. I ran two tanks through my 125C before using up my two sharp chains, three or four tanks through my 800 before using up my only sharp chain, four tanks through Brian's 800, two tanks through his 805 and a few tablespoons through his 125C before it threw the chain twice. I think maybe it was getting me back for trading it to Brian without a playmate as the other two saws were perfectly content with me running them again.

After running my 125 almost endlessly and then swapping to my 800 that seems to spend more time on the tailgate getting refilled than cutting, I can see why there are stories of loggers not liking the PM850 on a PNW landing due to short run times.

Lee at work on our biggest splitter.
View attachment 830195

Brian giving his 125C a workout.
View attachment 830196

My 125C after using up it last sharp chain.
View attachment 830197

Funny that there are at least three relatively new MS661s at the lot, all but one run by folks far younger than Brian and me and we keep being asked to come cut the big stuff. One of these days I am going to grab one of the 661s just to see if it is the saw or sawyer. I know it is not shoveling off hard work because all these guys work hard.

Brian ran his Chinacom 660 a little today, but said he always gravitates back to his 800.

Be Safe Out There.

Ron

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.

Do you guys ever run mico chisel or chipper chain for longevity? I like it when I'm stumping .
I've got a 700 set up with .404 chipper and my homelite 1050A with .404 micro chisel skip for the nasty stuff.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I believe at one time Mark posted a chart showing the various carb sizes for MACs. If I recall correctly, some of the 70 cc and under ten series had carbs as big as the large frame saws. My memory could be wrong but that is what I recall.

Ron

Your correct on them being used across the board . The 44a was used on just about everything. The only thing I'm unsure of are the diameters of the transition holes, so just with out modifications it would be safe to use any of the larger sdcs (44a) on an 88cc saw.

 

[rwoods]

Do you guys ever run mico chisel or chipper chain for longevity? I like it when I'm stumping .
I've got a 700 set up with .404 chipper and my homelite 1050A with .404 micro chisel skip for the nasty stuff.

I am not sure I know what chipper chain is. On my 125 I usually run Stihl semi-chisel (46RM). On the 800 I run both Stihl semi-chisel and square ground .404. Some of these logs had metal in them. Also we are cutting on concrete and with these large diameter pieces it easy to hit the concrete without knowing it (until the cutting quits).

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Some of you may already know this fix, but today with Brian's encouragement I believe I have whipped my old nemesis of chain brakes that won't latch. If yours are like mine, you just need to bend the spring to lengthen the straight portion of the spring on the side that engages the trigger. Not the little tab - the straight portion underneath it. A little extra length will make the tab fit jam tight in the trigger. Wish I had known this years ago. The trigger pivot doesn't even have to be tight.

Thank you, Brian.

Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

A few more pictures from today at the wood lot.

Ron putting a new chain on his SP125C. I think his is a 32" bar using a .404 full comp chain.


Ron cutting with a PM800. Not sure if was his or mine. Either way my saw is running a 28" bar with a .404 full comp chain, His is running a 25" bar with .404 full comp chain.


Ever wonder how much exhaust volume and pressure comes out of a SP125C?




We was cutting in about 2 inches of water. By the way 36" bar, .404 full comp chain.


Ron cutting with my/used to be his PM805. Very nice saw. 24" bar, 3/8 full comp chain


Almost the end of the day, Ron getting up from a very short break that he seldom takes. He was looking very tired and that worries me. He don't know when to stop and take a break. None of us had eaten lunch and I had skipped breakfast. The only thing I saw him eat all day was a tangerine and a little water. But he just keep going like the energizer bunny.



Ron back cutting with the PM800. I bet with a dull chain. I had been running a skid steer. I am not a very good skid steer operator, but at this point was running the Chinacomm saw. We both went through several chains and bucked several large logs. I know I hit something with the SP125C after cutting about 2 hours and we had trouble with the chain until I found a bad link in the chain and Ron noticed the bar is a little warped. All in all Ron used 2 of his saws and I think 3 chains, between he and I, we went through 2 or 3 chains on the 4 saws I brought. But a good day of cutting. I don't know about him, but I came home tired and sore.
I am proud of my son who worked with the guys operating the processor all day.

Brian

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I am not sure I know what chipper chain is. On my 125 I usually run Stihl semi-chisel (46RM). On the 800 I run both Stihl semi-chisel and square ground .404. Some of these logs had metal in them. Also we are cutting on concrete and with these large diameter pieces it easy to hit the concrete without knowing it (until the cutting quits).

Ron

I know what you mean.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Mico chisel, Oregon. 404 pretty good stuff, I like it in skip.

Chipper chain , no flat side plate . Totally round tooth.. Oregon. 404
I don't think you can get it new but there's lots of NOS out there.
Might last a day in your lot, I've used "multi-cut" also and it's pretty tough.