McCulloch Chain Saws

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

As usual Mark beat me too it. Part 23 is a hand protector in the event of a thrown chain. Notice the orientation. It is not a boot pad, though I guess you could flip it over to use as a toe catch.

The discussed tank mounted hand guard is rather cool looking - and could be useful to keep your hand out of the chain in situations where you might lose your forward grip.

An open DSP should not result in zero compression - otherwise your saw would never start. An 82cc ten series should crank and run with the valve stuck open.
Ron

A hand protector well thank you Ron. Marks 60 must be mounted the wrong way then.

Cool that I have it's proper name now. Cheers my curiosity is fully rewarded

Need to get a nice loop of stihl RS on it and throw some chips asap. 81 drivers for Mac 24? I'll count tomorrow anyhow

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

From the same '73 IPL

View attachment 872143

I am pretty sure this is Ted's (warped) saw.

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Mark

He's done well with that resto

 

[clint53]

The 33/35/39 saws normally had the model and serial number stamped under the fuel cap, the earliest 33's had a tag on the points cover but even in this case you can see the serial number is also stamped under the fuel cap.

View attachment 872137

This is a 33B

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35

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35A

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39

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Mark

Many thanks Mark.
I'll pass the info to my friend.
Clint

 

[vinnywv]

As usual Mark beat me too it. Part 23 is a hand protector in the event of a thrown chain. Notice the orientation. It is not a boot pad, though I guess you could flip it over to use as a toe catch.

The discussed tank mounted hand guard is rather cool looking - and could be useful to keep your hand out of the chain in situations where you might lose your forward grip.

An open DSP should not result in zero compression - otherwise your saw would never start. An 82cc ten series should crank and run with the valve stuck open.
Ron

Ahhhhh, a hand protector! Thanks ron for clarification. Interesting. I have a saw with the bottom brace hokes in it for mounting that. Now i know.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Depending on the saw, the holes could be for a pair of rubber 'feet' for the bottom of the brace. My Super 250 has em.

​

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ahhhhh, a hand protector! Thanks ron for clarification. Interesting. I have a saw with the bottom brace hokes in it for mounting that. Now i know.

Might have to make 1 up vinny i can give you dimensions if ya want

Depending on the saw, the holes could be for a pair of rubber 'feet' for the bottom of the brace. My Super 250 has em.

View attachment 872230

View attachment 872231​

I thought you were meaning the doodads on the bottom of the front handle

 

[clint53]

The 33/35/39 saws normally had the model and serial number stamped under the fuel cap, the earliest 33's had a tag on the points cover but even in this case you can see the serial number is also stamped under the fuel cap.

View attachment 872137

This is a 33B

View attachment 872138

35

View attachment 872140

35A

View attachment 872139

39

View attachment 872141

Mark

This is what my friend sent me Mark.
So it must be a later 33B.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

A hand protector well thank you Ron. Marks 60 must be mounted the wrong way then.

Cool that I have it's proper name now. Cheers my curiosity is fully rewarded

Need to get a nice loop of stihl RS on it and throw some chips asap. 81 drivers for Mac 24? I'll count tomorrow anyhow

81 dl for a 7 pin sprocket.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Trying my hand at square filing, I figured I'll be able to tell its advantages on the PM700 because I spent the most time behind it.
My filing needs a little more consistently but I feel like I'm getting the hang of the file.

 

[vinnywv]

Might have to make 1 up vinny i can give you dimensions if ya want



I thought you were meaning the doodads on the bottom of the front handle

Sure thing jethro!! Always fun fabricating stuff

 

[clint53]

View attachment 872260View attachment 872261
Trying my hand at square filing, I figured I'll be able to tell its advantages on the PM700 because I spent the most time behind it.
My filing needs a little more consistently but I feel like I'm getting the hang of the file.

I tried square filing in October and it cut to the right on my MS361. I need to further investigate and try again. To many things that needs to be done.

 

[clint53]

I just came in from trying my MS361 with square filing.
I took the bar off and checked the squareness of the rail and it was off a bit, so I lightly dress it. The square filed chain still cut the the right.
I will try again, but right now my PM 10-10S will run circles around it with regular round filing on a full chisel chain.

 

[McCullochKid]

What's the difference between the 33/35/39 saws anyway? I've only been able to determine that it's small differences like the paint scheme, spark plug cover, emblem, etc...
Is that basically all it is, or is there more going on? I've also read that the 39 is considered rare, is that true?

 

[vizette]

Trying my hand at square filing, I figured I'll be able to tell its advantages on the PM700 because I spent the most time behind it.
My filing needs a little more consistently but I feel like I'm getting the hang of the file.

About how long is that Remington bar? I've got one that looks like that and I want to say it's a 22" (?) but I have no idea how many drive links. I was going to wrap a 24" chain around and use that to gauge, but if you already know that's significantly easier.

Square file and skip chain on that should be a lot of fun! Are you using a "goofy" file? I only ask because I want to head down the square file road one day.

 

[heimannm]

There are any number of subtle differences between the various models.

The 33 has the small air filter, a smaller rubber spark plug cover, no flange on the handle to assist with the oil pump, and no access for the 1/4-20 screw to wind up the starter spring when replacing the rope, and the "medallion" glued on the side of the housing . The 33 had a fast idle lock thumbwheel above the throttle trigger and the stop switch plunger on the housing just below the spark plug cover.



The Super 33 has the yellow and black color scheme like the 39, the others are all yellow. The Super should have a "full wrap" style front handle with a flange on each side, the larger removable metal spark plug cover, early ones still have the small air filter, later ones have the larger air filter, the Super 33 emblem cast into the housing, and most came with a stamped steel cover over the sprocket. The Super 33 had the hole in the starter for the screw to wind the spring. The throttle latch is gone, and the stop switch is now a toggle below the throttle trigger.







The 33B has the larger air filter like all the later models, still uses the smaller rubber spark plug cover, most would have the flange on the handle to help hold the saw while operating the oiler, and still no hole for the starter to wind the spring, and still has the glued on medallion. The stop switch is the toggle below the throttle.



The 35 has the large air filter, probably still has the smaller rubber spark plug cover, may or may not have the flange on the handle to assist with the oiler, has the access hole to allow the use of a longer 1/4-20 bolt to wind the starter spring, and the medallion is molded into the housing and has "35" cast in. This was evidently a late model 35 since it had the boss molded in for the oiler button like the later 35A.







The 35A has the oiler button up by throttle to make it more user friendly, larger air filter, the lager removeable spark plug cover, no flange on the front handle since the oiler button is moved, the hole for the starter spring, and the same McCulloch 35 right side housing.





More to come...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

The 39 has a deeper fuel tank, one of the only sure, distinguishable difference between the various models. Yellow and black color scheme, oiler button is by the throttle like the 35A, toggle stop switch, full wrap handle with 2 flanges, hole for the starter spring winding, stamped steel sprocket cover, and a glued on "39" medallion.





I think there were fewer of the 39's produced so they don't appear as often. There were other differences like the ignition/coil mount in that the 33 had no stand offs cast in the cylinder and used a separate piece, and many other small details like the seal stack up on the primer mechanism. I do believe that all were the same bore and stroke and none were really impressive performers.

If I follow the IPL's correctly, the sequence would have been 33, 33B, Super 33, 35, 39, Mac 35, Mac 35A. There was a Thrifty model as well with the yellow and black plaid paint job but I don't think I have any IPL's for that particular model.

Mark

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

About how long is that Remington bar? I've got one that looks like that and I want to say it's a 22" (?) but I have no idea how many drive links. I was going to wrap a 24" chain around and use that to gauge, but if you already know that's significantly easier.

Square file and skip chain on that should be a lot of fun! Are you using a "goofy" file? I only ask because I want to head down the square file road one day.

Very perceptive! It is a Remington nose but the bar has the mutli mount pattern and it is about 22" . I used a homelite spring clip bar spacer to take up the minor bar slot difference. I can count the DLs for you tomorrow but I believe it's for the 8 pin rim I have on that 700.

 

[McCullochKid]

Very informative and interesting, thanks!
They're definitely cool looking saws if nothing else.

 

[Woodslasher]

My 10-10 is on the bench! I started by installing a 3/8 rim sprocket kit on it so I can run something other than the 16 x 0.354 hard nose b/c setup it came with. The clutch bearing was kinda dirty so I cleaned and re-greased it. I pulled the bad wire out of the coil and discovered another crack in the casing. The new wire should arrive tomorrow so I can finish re-assembling it when the mail gets here. I also cleaned out a ton of junk from in the cylinder fins and under the coil and tightened the exhaust bolt, which was fairly loose. Just a heads up, I had to do a bit of creative shifting/shaking to get the flywheel cover off without pulling off the wrap handle, but it is possible.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

About how long is that Remington bar? I've got one that looks like that and I want to say it's a 22" (?) but I have no idea how many drive links. I was going to wrap a 24" chain around and use that to gauge, but if you already know that's significantly easier.

Square file and skip chain on that should be a lot of fun! Are you using a "goofy" file? I only ask because I want to head down the square file road one day.

Double chisel bit (Perferd) file.