McCulloch Chain Saws

[mogulmasher]

I agree with Jethro, keep it. It means more because of its history. Like said before they aren't all that rare and you can't kill them. Ive had several 80/87cc large frame Macs. Paid $25-$60 for every single one and never failed to get one running. In my experience the 87cc versions are the only ones that ever fetch more than $100.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Well finally the SP81 is getting its bar back and its pretty now

Love me a stripped bare speed mac

New chain too wahoo. They always question 81 links though lol

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Well finally the SP81 is getting its bar back and its pretty now
View attachment 906137View attachment 906138
Love me a stripped bare speed mac

New chain too wahoo. They always question 81 links though lol

What in tarnation! Are you running stihl chain?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

What in tarnation! Are you running stihl chain?

Sure am I love stihl chain unfortunately the mac dealer closed up a couple or so years back

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Sure am I love stihl chain unfortunately the mac dealer closed up a couple or so years back

It is good chain(stihl), if you get a chance to try Oregon EXL chain you'll like it.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

It is good chain(stihl), if you get a chance to try Oregon EXL chain you'll like it.

Might give it a go next loop. Cheers

 

[Yokosukadweller]

Quick question to the experts roaming here: I want to repaint a saw (that CP70). Normally I am fine to keep saws looking their age, but this one had a botched attempted repair job which required me to sand off a good part around the seam to remove a failed epoxy and redo it. So now the tank needs some paint.

Now as for how I am thinking to do this:

I've got enamel yellow for the bottom (Rustoleum sunburst) and I also got a 2K matte-black for the top. I also got a 2K clear coat; all rattlecan paint. The clear coat would be added to the yellow depending on how that comes out.

I have sanded the tank with low-rev grinder and diamond pads (100 to 200 grit). Next I would wipe with mineral spirits to remove any remaining grease and dust. Then on a sunny day I would apply a thin sticky coat of primer and then wait 20 minutes and just lay down 4-5 medium coats until it seems glossy and satisfactorily covered? Then I'd dry for a couple hours until dry to touch, and then I would carefully place the painted part into my wood fired oven for curing. The oven would have left-over heat from previous day's cooking and be around 100 degrees C/ 200F. Of course this would all have to be done 2 times - once for black, and then the yellow after that black is cured.

Does this make sense, or anything I ought to do differently.

Thanks in advance

 

[heimannm]

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws but is a bit darker/more red than the earlier SP type models. Some Safety Yellow paints and older John Deere Yellow are a better match to the original shade of yellow that McCulloch used. I have even put light coats of a safety yellow over the Sunburst yellow if the safety was too light.

Your procedure should yield good results. I put my freshly painted parts in the attic of my garage in the summer months (around 140 degrees F) or above my wood stove in the basement in the winter months (that spot can reach 100 to 120 degrees F) and leave them for several days if possible.

I have been printing a few additional silhouettes lately, bonus points to the first correct answer on all 5.



I thought I had the piston I need for an upcoming project, I decided it is time to move all of them over to the new shop and get them properly documented. Turns out I have enough 68098 pistons for the PM6/Mini Mac saws to last a few years.









Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws but is a bit darker/more red than the earlier SP type models. Some Safety Yellow paints and older John Deere Yellow are a better match to the original shade of yellow that McCulloch used. I have even put light coats of a safety yellow over the Sunburst yellow if the safety was too light.

Your procedure should yield good results. I put my freshly painted parts in the attic of my garage in the summer months (around 140 degrees F) or above my wood stove in the basement in the winter months (that spot can reach 100 to 120 degrees F) and leave them for several days if possible.

I have been printing a few additional silhouettes lately, bonus points to the first correct answer on all 5.

View attachment 906163

Mark

Hmm, lemme take a stab at this. Clockwise from upper left, a 1-4*/1-5*, a BP1?, a 33/35, a 1-6* or maybe 440, and a mini mac. The first one may be a 650? if that’s what the gear drive equivalent of a 1-4* is.

 

[Yokosukadweller]

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws but is a bit darker/more red than the earlier SP type models. Some Safety Yellow paints and older John Deere Yellow are a better match to the original shade of yellow that McCulloch used. I have even put light coats of a safety yellow over the Sunburst yellow if the safety was too light.

Thanks Mark, yes I can't find any sufficiently light safety yellow here. I already re-painted the lower engine cover with a yellow that turned out to be too dark/red, so I managed to find a sunburst, even that might not entirely match the CP's quite light yellow hue.

Not sure about your silhouettes, may two of them be a beaver and the 10-series?

 

[fossil]

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws but is a bit darker/more red than the earlier SP type models. Some Safety Yellow paints and older John Deere Yellow are a better match to the original shade of yellow that McCulloch used. I have even put light coats of a safety yellow over the Sunburst yellow if the safety was too light.

Your procedure should yield good results. I put my freshly painted parts in the attic of my garage in the summer months (around 140 degrees F) or above my wood stove in the basement in the winter months (that spot can reach 100 to 120 degrees F) and leave them for several days if possible.

I have been printing a few additional silhouettes lately, bonus points to the first correct answer on all 5.

View attachment 906163

I thought I had the piston I need for an upcoming project, I decided it is time to move all of them over to the new shop and get them properly documented. Turns out I have enough 68098 pistons for the PM6/Mini Mac saws to last a few years.

View attachment 906164

View attachment 906165

View attachment 906166

View attachment 906167

Mark

On the silhouettes;

550 ----------> BP-1
MM-1
1-86 -----------> 33

 

[heimannm]

The BP-1 and the 33/35 are easy. 1-86 is pretty good too (actually 1-80).

Keep trying on the last two.

Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

I alter my guess, PM6 and not MM6. Also, maybe a 380/250 with the long filter cover, based on the lack of fuel/oil caps?

 

[heimannm]

Ding ding ding, we have a winner. Actually it is a 300 but the silhouette for all three as well as the 1-51, 1-52, and 1-53 would look the same.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Mmmmmm sexy
Diy farlead still working well

 

[northwest saws]

Does anyone have a bar adapter they wouldn't mind letting go of or possibly make one for some dinero? I have several good 28" Stihl bars and I would like to put one on my SP81 but I don't have the necessary tools to properly make the adapter.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Does anyone have a bar adapter they wouldn't mind letting go of or possibly make one for some dinero? I have several good 28" Stihl bars and I would like to put one on my SP81 but I don't have the necessary tools to properly make the adapter.

https://www.sawsuppliers.com/produc...n-stihl-bar-chain?_pos=1&_sid=8aac8b42f&_ss=rThese are decent.

 

[vinnywv]

The sp81 looks good jethro

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The sp81 looks good jethro

Cheers man love that saw very much. Just a joy to use.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep. A badass workin' man's saw right there.