Thanks Mark. I knew you would know.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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What size file does a 1/2 pitch chain take Mark? 1/4" ?
Yes. 1/4"
If you have the old ones I can make you new ones PM me I do CAD and then laser cut.
l just started selling some on ebay for 10-10 and PM6
Hello guys. My 10-10S ingested a bunch of sawdust and is shot. i noticed some of the cylinder has also worn through. Before I start shopping for replacement parts, can the 10-10S be upgraded to a 700? Seems most of the parts are interchangeable.
700 has a 2” bore 10-10 is 1.870 ish
Correct
What Im trying to figure out is if a short block from a 700 will fit/work?
Some of the 10-10s had a cast iron sleeve, I think your s is one of em so I believe you can bore it to 2” use a 700 piston and you have a 700.stroke is the same. Yes you can put a 700 cyl on a 10-10
I’ve done the and left the 10-10 cover on and whip ass in the 60cc class! Was years ago but fun
Great news. Im figuring its not going to be cheap whatever way I go so I might as well beef it up. I've always wanted a 700. Strange how it ingested all that saw dust. It has a NOS cover and filter.
When putting the 70 cc short block in a 54/57 cc chassis you will need to change the insulator between the cylinder and the airbox. I think most everything else is a one for one swap.
Mark Heimann
Mark Heimann
Ranger-692
ArboristSite Member
How important is the exhaust gasket on these? Both my pm700 and 10-10 don’t have them and run fine, is it just to contain gasses does it affect performance? Also, both bolts that attach the muffler to the side of the cylinder are sheared off flush on both saws, one I did the other came that way when I bought it. Does it matter if the mufflers aren’t attached there? Is the small amount of exhaust escaping out of the back there a problem? I been running them like that and seems OK but don’t want to cause new problems. Thanks for all the help guys
Drill em out and remove them. Heli-coil em these are the only support the muffler has they’ll eventually shear off the muffler bolts. Use an exhaust gasket if you can find one for it
Ranger-692
ArboristSite Member
I’ve tried everything to get them out including corroding them out with alum/hot water. One of them the easy out sheared out inside so that ones even worse. Don’t have a drill press to accurately drill these without screwing up the aluminum around it. I’ve also cut slots across the top to try to use a flathead screwdriver and that just busted screwdriver tips. It’s like they’re welded in.
If there’s a way I can drill these out without a press I’d take the advice. Terrified of screwing up the cylinder
First thing I do when drilling out something in aluminum is to make or buy a drill stop , its a collar you put on the drill bit to limit the amount of depth the bit can drill. I use a good wrap of electric tape on some bits just to keep track of the depth.
I often use needle bits and make several holes in the offending metal then use a small chisel to shatter it and pick out the pieces, lots of patience is required.
Yep start with smaller bits make sure it’s center punched, take your time and use a steady hand. If unsure of yourself find a friend who’s done this. The last bit should just show the threads then use a tap and clean em up
Thanks Mark.
gumneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any chance you have access to a Mig welder or friend with one. Both these bolts came on an old Poulan s25 I picked up a while back. Put a just big enough nut around the bolts, couple of light tack welds, little bit of PBblaster and turned them off. I could have reused them if I wanted to but I put new on it.
Even if the bolt is sheared flat with the surface I've used this method many times.
Old mate Bob Johnson might have 1 left. Pretty sure he got S blocks too. Bout your only hope or luck out on a parts saw
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