McCulloch Chain Saws

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I made some progress on the 1-75 today, but kept running into unexpected issues. The piston and cylinder measurements were as close to "the book" as I can measure, but standard rings had an end gap of over 0.025" which I thought was excessive. I have some +0.030" rings so I used the ring end filer to get to to around 0.008-0.010" gap.

20230603_114132.jpg

I flattened the end of the crankcase on a slab of marble with a piece of emery cloth glued on.

20230603_114241.jpg

With the piston installed (make sure the closed end wrist pin bearing is facing the exhaust port) a little grease on rod will stick the needles in place. Same process on the rod cap to hold the needles...

20230603_115113.jpg

So far so good, but a sharp eye would notice the oiler piston is stuck in the bore...so stuck in fact that I had to remove the oiler outlet check valve and use compressed air to get it out. Well, the piston and spring turned into a UFO but not a problem as I have more in the attic. We did find the piston later on but the spring is still MIA.

20230603_133049.jpg

With the piston, rod, crankshaft, and oil tank/crankcase bottom installed it was time to turn our attention to the fuel tank. Upon close inspection, I noticed something peculiar about the reed stops as in they were broken off and completely gone.

20230603_140138.jpg

Back to the attic to find a good used one.

20230603_140131.jpg

Someone had been in this saw before me, and the reed block and insulator had been modifed. The clamp is supposed to screw directly into the bottom of the tank...

20230603_172130.1.jpg

...but they had added an extra insulator and so secure the reed and reed stop with a nut instead.

20230603_140144.jpg

As a result, I only got this far today.

20230603_172057.jpg

I should also mention that I ran into major issues with the points...something was causing them to bind and they would not close reliably. Eventually I discovered that the screw and nut for the points wire were overtightened and had tweaked the spring. Finally I had a good spark but the day was spent.

Mark
 
Today I was one for two.I got spark on the Super 2-10,which kinda surprised me.The points were tarnished from sitting for many yrs.& there was no felt in the points box.I just used the felt from the PM 10-10 that refused to get spark with points.It did run on a prime,but wouldn't pull fuel on it's own & after pulling the carb I saw why.The pump side was in somewhat good shape,but the metering diaphragm could've doubled as a mini frisbee..Of course when I tried to pull the fuel line off the carb the line broke.The inside of the fuel tank is slightly corroded too.This was my good saw.

The saw that I didn't have such good luck with today was the PM 10-10.I got the front handle on,the recoil on,& the SDC65 carb on.It'll run on a prime only,so I'm gonna try a different carb tomorrow..The 65 carb tested good,so I don't know what's up with it.It was kinda sweet to hear that new short block fire up for the first time though.
 
I made some progress on the 1-75 today, but kept running into unexpected issues. The piston and cylinder measurements were as close to "the book" as I can measure, but standard rings had an end gap of over 0.025" which I thought was excessive. I have some +0.030" rings so I used the ring end filer to get to to around 0.008-0.010" gap.
Yikes, +0.030" is a lot oversize when you consider the size of the bore. Did you have to file much? What is the ring tension like now?

0.025" is a big gap so perhaps something wasn't as it seems piston and bore wise.
 
I made some progress on the 1-75 today, but kept running into unexpected issues. The piston and cylinder measurements were as close to "the book" as I can measure, but standard rings had an end gap of over 0.025" which I thought was excessive. I have some +0.030" rings so I used the ring end filer to get to to around 0.008-0.010" gap.

View attachment 1087645

I flattened the end of the crankcase on a slab of marble with a piece of emery cloth glued on.

View attachment 1087646

With the piston installed (make sure the closed end wrist pin bearing is facing the exhaust port) a little grease on rod will stick the needles in place. Same process on the rod cap to hold the needles...

View attachment 1087647

So far so good, but a sharp eye would notice the oiler piston is stuck in the bore...so stuck in fact that I had to remove the oiler outlet check valve and use compressed air to get it out. Well, the piston and spring turned into a UFO but not a problem as I have more in the attic. We did find the piston later on but the spring is still MIA.

View attachment 1087648

With the piston, rod, crankshaft, and oil tank/crankcase bottom installed it was time to turn our attention to the fuel tank. Upon close inspection, I noticed something peculiar about the reed stops as in they were broken off and completely gone.

View attachment 1087651

Back to the attic to find a good used one.

View attachment 1087652

Someone had been in this saw before me, and the reed block and insulator had been modifed. The clamp is supposed to screw directly into the bottom of the tank...

View attachment 1087657

...but they had added an extra insulator and so secure the reed and reed stop with a nut instead.

View attachment 1087655

As a result, I only got this far today.

View attachment 1087656

I should also mention that I ran into major issues with the points...something was causing them to bind and they would not close reliably. Eventually I discovered that the screw and nut for the points wire were overtightened and had tweaked the spring. Finally I had a good spark but the day was spent.

Mark
Great post Mark. Good pics !
 
The PM 10-10 is turning out to be a giant PITA! I've put 4 different carbs on it - 2 SDC65s that won't pull any fuel & 2 SDC37s that I put on & the saw runs like a turd.I've got an SDC49 & 2 more SDC37s that won't hold pressure.
What version of Tillotson did Mac use?
 
Internet at home was down last night...here are some photos of the 1-75 put together. I did receive the metering gaskets & diaphragms from Jeffrey F. and installed one with a stainless steel plate. The saw starts, runs, cuts, even idles as it should but the adjustments seem to be drifting a bit. I'll take the carburetor apart again today for an additional cleaning and try installing one of the metering sets with the aluminum plate just for the benefits of science.

20230605_190807.jpg

I had to repair the muffler shield as it was badly beaten up and cracked. Some low temperature brazing rod from McMaster Carr and the yellow "Mapp" tank for my torch did the trick. I also replaced the deflector (55112) with one that Jeff made.

20230605_111826.jpg

The completed saw...there is a bit of the sawdust shield behind the clutch cover/starter missing but I think it will be O.K. for the little bit of use this one will see.

20230605_190412.jpg

I was able to come up with another of those peculiar roller nose bar to put on this one. They don't look like it, but they are a full 3" wide at the tail.

20230605_190422.jpg

I still have a good supply of the round grills for the flywheel housing so this is a new one.

20230605_190435.jpg

The "shock mounts" for the top of the handle bar are very soft, if they make it through the trip to Oregon intact I will probably just put this one into the display and leave well enough alone.

20230605_190442.jpg

Mark
 
Vinny,the HS111A was used on the SP125.I think that carb may be a bit too big for a 10-10.I did find an HS117 or HS127 on feebay.It was supposed to have come off a running 7-10.The seller was asking $50 or MO & I got it for $30.I'll see if the Tilly carb works better than the Walbos do.
 
There are only two sizes of SDC carburetors that I am aware of, .750 throttle bore and .812 throttle bore. You could find the big carburetors on small saws, and the small carburetors on big saws from the factory...SDC16 and below are the smaller .750 throttle bore and SDC18 and above are the .812 throttle bore. I have an SP125 that came with the smaller bore fixed jet carburetor, I swapped it for the larger bore fully adjustable carburetor off a CP70.

Mark
 

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