McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

#1 Handle bar gets tweaked by heavy handed operators (I have been guilty myself)
#2 Front and rear AV mounts get very mushy with age and let is cant off to one side (see how I incorporated a logging term...)
3# Lower AV mount gets mushy or loses the rubber altogether

Just FWIW, Max has a few NOS handlebars and AV mounts and I have reproduction handlebars in steel and NOS AV mounts. The handlebars will work on either SP or PM style AV saws.



Mark

 

[bob kern]

And it's Mark to the rescue once again!

 

[McCullochfiremen47]

Does anybody have a trick to get a carbeurator intake spacer off ? I am trying to replace gaskets an the spacer that mounts below the carbeurator, and the one that mounts to the clyinder head are stuck in place. (Saw is a PM55)

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Does anybody have a trick to get a carbeurator intake spacer off ? I am trying to replace gaskets an the spacer that mounts below the carbeurator, and the one that mounts to the clyinder head are stuck in place. (Saw is a PM55)

Ummm carefully sorry no help

Should just pop off with a small beating tool or something

 

[McCullochfiremen47]

Ummm carefully sorry no help

Should just pop off with a small beating tool or something

Haha here I am hammer in hand haha.

 

[McCullochfiremen47]

Hammer an punch worked too well. Deformed the base of the spacer. Worth getting it off will just have to replace the spacer .

 

[edju1958]

Wish I was here earlier,I woulda told you to just leave it stuck to the carb & put a new gasket on the bottom of the spacer.Been there,done that.

 

[heimannm]

I have insulators and gaskets if you find you need to replace yours.

Mark

 

[McCullochfiremen47]

Wish I was here earlier,I woulda told you to just leave it stuck to the carb & put a new gasket on the bottom of the spacer.Been there,done that.

Definitely came through my mind. I had 5he reverse. Spacer an gasket were stuck to the base of the air box. The spacer an gasket were also stuck to the intake of the clyinder head on the other side haha. I got lucky an found and ordered a set of oem spacers on ebay .

 

[McCullochfiremen47]

I have insulators and gaskets if you find you need to replace yours.

Mark

Thank you Mark. I just ordered some a hour ago.

 

[rwoods]

IT IS ALIVE! Pro Mac 700 lives again.

Special note to Ed: I now better understand your occasional MAC pains. Same thoughts with respect to those who struggle with recoil springs.





This is the only non-A/V ten series that I have ever taken apart. What I thought would be an easy 1-hour re-assembly job based upon my A/V MAC experiences, grew into at least seven hours yesterday not counting a trip for sealant. I actually had some unsuspected shortcuts - both oil pumps came attached to my replacement oil tank / crankcase which saved me 15 minutes or so.

The flywheel fought me until I took an impact wrench to it. Replacing both seals wasn't too bad, and reinstalling the clutch and flywheel and putting the cylinder together was pretty much a breeze, and but after that everything fought me. Most notably, the throttle linkage and the recoil.

Until yesterday, I wondered why folks have a hard time with recoil springs as I have always wound them and popped them in place using just my hands. Now I see why there are the YouTube videos with tips and tools. If this saw wasn't my first full size saw (I brought it new in January 1982), it probably would have been bounced off the floor last night. Throttle linkage and its little rubber boot was a royal pain. I can't say which was worst the recoil or the linkage. The two held hands to take away my day off.

Though I am suffering sticker shock from the YamaBond purchase ($25 for a tube), it was certainly easier to apply than primer/activator and anaerobic sealant I usually use. I don't know what the anaerobic sealant costs these days so maybe I shouldn't have been shocked.

Wood season is just around the corner. I need to fix my PM800 with the stripped DSP port and maybe just maybe put together my 94cc ten series.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

The throttle rod boot on the 10 Series PM rigid saws is one of the most difficult. On the large frame and 10 Series left hand start saws I just hook the spring in the starter housing and wind it in. Right hand start 10 Series require winding the spring tight and installing it with a pair of long nose pliers.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

North East Tennessee MAC Report

It has been raining a lot lately in North East Tennessee but at least it is keeping the temperatures in check.

Wood season is coming so I am scouting for trees to fall. I checked in at the county firing range and was told I was done there for now. I visited the woodlot but they had no promising leads so I don't know what Blind Squirrel Falling will be up to this fall - maybe running a splitter. I tried to take a picture of the wood lot for those unfamiliar with it, but I couldn't find a vantage point that would take it all in, thus the multiple pictures.





Be safe.

Ron

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

Oh man PM 700 is going to be my next project. I am not at all encouraged by your experience.
$50 investment and no sentimental value on this one so not a big deal if it defeats me.

 

[rwoods]

Oh man PM 700 is going to be my next project. I am not at all encouraged by your experience.
$50 investment and no sentimental value on this one so not a big deal if it defeats me.

I got tired and had high expectations. The two worked against me. Just take your time and you will be fine.

The throttle linkage and the boot are just in the way of one of the screws, plus my linkage had been twisted. I doubt next time, I will have to remove the gas tank and reinstall the rubber boot.

The recoil would bind when I tightened the pulley. I dissembled it many times before I just gave up and left the pulley retention screw a little loose. I am guessing that in the past I over torqued it resulting in the pully center hole opening up a little - the shaft and pulley fit by wedging together. I don't know what was going on with the spring. Probably just me being tired as I usually just rewind them in my hand and then insert the wound spring in the housing, then jiggle the pulley over it. Last night it fought me over and over until I chilled a bit.

The piston went in the cylinder fairly easy - not quite as easy as an 82CC MAC but way way easier than a PM555.

Ron

 

[knightmax]

IT IS ALIVE! Pro Mac 700 lives again.

Special note to Ed: I now better understand your occasional MAC pains. Same thoughts with respect to those who struggle with recoil springs.

View attachment 1104438

View attachment 1104439

This is the only non-A/V ten series that I have ever taken apart. What I thought would be an easy 1-hour re-assembly job based upon my A/V MAC experiences, grew into at least seven hours yesterday not counting a trip for sealant. I actually had some unsuspected shortcuts - both oil pumps came attached to my replacement oil tank / crankcase which saved me 15 minutes or so.

The flywheel fought me until I took an impact wrench to it. Replacing both seals wasn't too bad, and reinstalling the clutch and flywheel and putting the cylinder together was pretty much a breeze, and but after that everything fought me. Most notably, the throttle linkage and the recoil.

Until yesterday, I wondered why folks have a hard time with recoil springs as I have always wound them and popped them in place using just my hands. Now I see why there are the YouTube videos with tips and tools. If this saw wasn't my first full size saw (I brought it new in January 1982), it probably would have been bounced off the floor last night. Throttle linkage and its little rubber boot was a royal pain. I can't say which was worst the recoil or the linkage. The two held hands to take away my day off.

Though I am suffering sticker shock from the YamaBond purchase ($25 for a tube), it was certainly easier to apply than primer/activator and anaerobic sealant I usually use. I don't know what the anaerobic sealant costs these days so maybe I shouldn't have been shocked.

Wood season is just around the corner. I need to fix my PM800 with the stripped DSP port and maybe just maybe put together my 94cc ten series.

Ron

A bent Throttle linkage is a PITA. Sometimes you just cant get them bent back right. Funny Uncle thought the A/V 10 series were easier to work on than the none A/V. I am the opposite. Probably all in my head Ron. Glad she's back together

 

[edju1958]

Thanks Ron! I'm glad you finally got your 700 back together & running again.IIRC,it's been down for close to 2 cutting seasons.

People have told me that I have a lot of patience because I work on intricate things on saws.I suppose everyone is entitled to their own opinion.I don't think I have enough patience.Like you,when I get frustrated I feel like throwing the saw as far as I can,but I've leartned to just walk away,sometimes I walk away for a whole yr.Then when I come back to it,it just seems to fall in place.Maybe I have the luxury of too much time on my hands?.

 

[edju1958]

I went to change out the FW side crank seal on the 610 build I did last month & thought I had a seal on hand ,but ass it turned out I didn't.I found some on feebay for a decent price ($11 ea,I got 3).Unfortunately by the time I get them I won't be able to install one due to upcoming thumb surgery on Fri.

 

[piglosi]

The knowledge on this site has helped me with a few 10-10 series. Latest project.

 

[piglosi]

The knowledge on this site has helped me with a few 10-10 series. Latest project.

There is a Mac saw on evilbay that the seller doesn’t know if it’s a 2-10,10-10, or a 6-10. It’s a RH start. I can’t tell what it is and the seller didn’t get back to me with a Sn. I don’t think it’s a 10-10 because you have carb adjustment ability through the tank. The handlebar looks tall. Has anyone seen that saw? Is it a 6-10?