McCulloch Chain Saws

[machinisttx]

Most likely candidate with the full wrap handle bar and removable head is a 1-51. Turn it over and wipe off the bottom of the crank case, you will find the model and serial numbers stamped into the crank case on either side of the "T".

This one happens to be a 1-40, serial 23609 that came to me from topgut, haven't seen him posting in a long while.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=298201&d=1370147154

Mark

I glanced there earlier and didn't see anything. It's fairly clean, but I'll wipe it off and have another look.

 

[paccity]

151. this one is on the to do list. and the kustom muff.

 

[67L36Driver]

Can someone tell me what the Oregon and Windsor bar mount pattern is for a 250?

Acres site fails to mention it.

Also, the Oregon number for the clutch drum in .404" flavor?

 

[minosi]

Picked up a new "Old Girl"

Don't mind the crud, been a little too busy with the Fire Breathing Beast over the last week....she's coming together nicely (797):msp_wub:

View attachment 298264

View attachment 298265

View attachment 298266


Anyways, the piston looks good, but there is some issue in the big end...probably bearings. Nonetheless, she'll get sorted out.

-Andy

 

[fechtichmac]

Was finally able to rebuild the flatback,wich is in working order now.
Had to remove him 10! times since after every running the carb box was flooded with gas,
but no leaks in the carb ,pressure+vacuum tests-all o.k.
The issue was to easy to find-the original fuel line was`nt snug enough fitted on the carb!!
No more flooding now! (Stupid??)
Also installed the spitback assy with a new Piece of a B+S foam airfilter,I think that this is fuel resistant.


Thanks for looking!

E.

This one has a still working primer.
Since this part is no more available I tried a selfmade choke with great succes.The primer channels have to be closed (rusty strap) The O-rings have to remain.
Choke shaft came off Till.HL

E.

 

[tomscott]

Thanks Mark H for the 10-10 help...

To start, a big thank you to Mark H. for getting an air filter to me!

He also sent me a spike for it like I have on my PM610, but that looked a little big for my use. I ended up with an old Stihl 046 spike adapted in the same way, and it is perfect for the size of the saw.

Instead of feeling bad putting a Stihl part on, I look at it as punishment to Stihl to work for a McCulloch!
View attachment 298276View attachment 298277

The new Homelite duckbill in the gas cap solved the cap leaking issue. I had the one that Mark indicated was the most difficult to take apart; I avoided any tools and just flexed the outer cover a bit and was able to pop the plastic insert out with no damage at all.

I also found a throttle lock and installed that as well.

Now the less good... Somehow starting it with my boot through the handle, I broke the lower handle brace. I see on epay that later 10 series braces appear to be steel. Yes it will be heavier, but if they will fit, I think I may prefer one of those.

So... Will a later 10 series steel brace bolt in place of my mag one?

Thanks, Tom

 

[mini mac man]

To start, a big thank you to Mark H. for getting an air filter to me!

He also sent me a spike for it like I have on my PM610, but that looked a little big for my use. I ended up with an old Stihl 046 spike adapted in the same way, and it is perfect for the size of the saw.

Instead of feeling bad putting a Stihl part on, I look at it as punishment to Stihl to work for a McCulloch!
View attachment 298276View attachment 298277

The new Homelite duckbill in the gas cap solved the cap leaking issue. I had the one that Mark indicated was the most difficult to take apart; I avoided any tools and just flexed the outer cover a bit and was able to pop the plastic insert out with no damage at all.

I also found a throttle lock and installed that as well.

Now the less good... Somehow starting it with my boot through the handle, I broke the lower handle brace. I see on epay that later 10 series braces appear to be steel. Yes it will be heavier, but if they will fit, I think I may prefer one of those.

So... Will a later 10 series steel brace bolt in place of my mag one?

Thanks, Tom

I don't know but that Mac might have an allergic reaction to that cream sickle part attached to it.

 

[tomscott]

I don't know but that Mac might have an allergic reaction to that cream sickle part attached to it.

Well, I have to put a little Benadryl in the fuel mix anyway because I use Stihl oil!

 

[heimannm]

Tom - Actually the Stihl spike doesn't look too bad. You can find the original "offset" spike on e-bay if you want one. As I noted, the original does make adjusting the chain tension a bit more difficult.

The steel brace should bolt right up, I doubt you will notice any difference in the weight.

Eberhard - great ingenuity on the choke modification.

Mark

 

[tomscott]

Thanks on the brace info Mark. I figure steel will be a little more durable for the long haul.

After using the saw with this spike, I don't feel any need for the offset one. It works very well, and almost looks like it belongs.

The other thing I have noticed is even with the new air filter, the moment I place the filter on, it richens up. I think it would really benefit from having a permanently installed "spit-back" plate so the placing the air filter on doesn't change the tune. (Give me a better name for this if there is one.) I have played with installing the filter with the engine running, and the change happens as soon as the center portion of the filter is positioned but the edges are not sealed yet. It is not a lack of air, just a change in the fuel metering due to the filter proximity to the carb.

View attachment 298323

I have it running pretty good now, especially in the cut, but it is difficult getting the idle perfect with the inability to adjust with the filter in position.

So, will the later 10 series "spit-back" plates fit this carb and keep the air filter stud in the right location?

Thanks, Tom

 

[machinisttx]

I looked at that carcass again. To the left of the "T" I found a 1- with a 5 over 60. To the right is what I presume is the serial number. The paint was chipped a little in that area so I may have misread the part on the left or missed something.

 

[heimannm]

Tom - I have a 3-10 that behaves the same way, I will have to remember to try a different air filter mount to see if it makes any difference.

machinetx - from the oil tank and fuel tank, that one has to be a 1-51/52/53.

Mark

 

[tomscott]

Mark - I just bellied up to epay and bought my steel rear handle and an air filter plate off a later model. Judging by the pic, I think there is a good chance for a direct bolt on. If not, I am not afraid to modify as required, if possible to make it fit cleanly. Otherwise, I will build my own out of some sheet metal to work in conjunction with the present air filter mount.

I am thinking this is probably the reason McCulloch added the plate to later models. Being able to tune it with the plate in position will make it much more accurate. Carbs are sensitive creatures, and changing the pressure above the carb by placing the filter in close proximity changes the metering.

It will also probably keep more fuel mix off the (nearly) unobtainium air filter, hopefully enhancing its life.

 

[67L36Driver]

Mall bar pics. for Randy.

I think maybe someone bobbed the tail of the Mall bar. Arrow points to adjuster hole for the 250.

Someone attempted to drill a couple other holes also.

View attachment 298436
View attachment 298437

Bar isn't dead straight. Hard to see except in person.

View attachment 298438

 

[67L36Driver]

Can someone tell me what the Oregon and Windsor bar mount pattern is for a 250?

Acres site fails to mention it.

Also, the Oregon number for the clutch drum in .404" flavor?

Hey!

Don't make me post a red saw picture.

 

[Eccentric]

The new addition is a runner!

Got a second Super 250 in a trade a couple months ago. Decided to give my first S-250 (pictured much earlier in this thread) to Dave (Ckelp). He has it torn down and will be ordering parts for it shortly. Another one is infected!

Anyway, this saw came to me with a rotted out muffler and ignition problems. Replaced the muffler with another that I had in the parts stash. Replaced the 'top switch' flywheel cover with a 'side switch' cover from a 200 (I prefer that switch setup.......no fragile wire). Dove into the ignition. It had intermittent spark. Would start and run for a while, and then just cut out. When testing spark, it'd spin a few times with no spark, hit a few times, and then spin a few revolutions without spark again. Hmmm...

Had to tear it down a few times to chase out ALL the gremlins in the ignition system. Condensor wire was cut/chafed and grounding out. Spark plug lead was loose and not making good contact in the coil. Points needed help (stationary contact needed to be 'tweaked' for the contacts to be 'square' with each other for good contact). Fixed all that and cleaned/gapped the points.

Hot, consistant spark! Put an NOS 30" Oregon sprocket nose (.404-.063, D096 Homelite mount that oils fine with an Oregon inner bar plate) and a somewhat crappy (and slightly long) 95DL loop of chain that I had laying around. Will get a fresh 94DL loop spun up for it.

CAM00414_zps2255990f.mp4 Video by Eccentric_photo | Photobucket

CAM00415_zps8ca89ce8.mp4 Video by Eccentric_photo | Photobucket

 

[Eccentric]

Hey!

Don't make me post a red saw picture.

Now I've gotta dig a large Mac rim drive drum out of the McParts box for the Oregon #. IIRC it is 10624.

 

[67L36Driver]

Now I've gotta dig a large Mac rim drive drum out of the McParts box for the Oregon #. IIRC it is 10624.

Can't quite make out the number on this: McCulloch Chainsaw 1 46 250 Clutch Drum BOX1194Q | eBay

1060?? ........................... Hard to see.

 

[Eccentric]

Can't quite make out the number on this: McCulloch Chainsaw 1 46 250 Clutch Drum BOX1194Q | eBay

1060?? ........................... Hard to see.

That's what I see as well. The 10624 uses a bearing. There was an Oregon drum for these saws that used a bronze bushing (like what's pictured in the ebay listing). They have a different number. I think I have one of these in the parts bin. It's buggered up...........but the number is still intact. Bronze bushing is fine for our 'limited' use if greased every now and then. If it did come from a 1-46 or 250 (as stated in the listing) then it should work for your 250.

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks Aaron. Pulled the trigger on it.

The 1/2" drum on the 250 now has a bronze bushing.

Bronze is fine with me and also more tolerant of moisture and trash.