McCulloch Chain Saws

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The attached document is shows the 10 Series reed mufflers. Simply a way to try and attenuate the noise levels and has nothing to do with the cylinder charge.

Mark

Thanks Mark. Once again your knowledge, insight, and considerable collection of ephemera has enlightened the Mac masses. This thread is the main reason for my daily visit to AS.
Jim
 
I have a 10-10 if that's there version of quiet what's loud. And have successfully killed another saw. This time the coil went out on my lil 310. If it weren't for breakdowns I guess I'd think something was wrong if all my saws ran perfectly.
 
I have a 10-10 if that's there version of quiet what's loud. And have successfully killed another saw. This time the coil went out on my lil 310. If it weren't for breakdowns I guess I'd think something was wrong if all my saws ran perfectly.

Coil for a 310 mini mac? I got two ugly ones laying around, those two are just for parts. Will test one, and if it looks to be good, I'll send it out.

Still need a piston/connecting rod for your 610 rebuild?


As for breakdowns, been there, done that. Seems like the auto oiler pumps on the 10 series Macs tend to plug up pretty easy. Two of the 850's that I have (first one I rebuilt, and the nice one with the PM800 a/f cover) needed those pumps replaced. The old ones I removed will be cleaned out and unplugged one way or another. Once I figure out which method works best, I'll default to that to refresh/unplug them. Seems that letting the pump sit in ethanol free gas in a jar for a few days works well... saw a cruddy film of crap in the bottom of the jar after letting it soak. Tried the US cleaner, and it didn't do the trick. Maybe if it were in a jar of gas, then that put into the US cleaner...
 
You are welcome Jim, but give credit where credit is due; I am pretty sure the document I copied was first posted by Cliff in the old saw literature thread.

Mark

Hey Mark...

Can you give a link to this thread - I did an unsuccessful search for it or something like it.

It could add some interesting reading and maybe some helpful documentation.
 
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PM700 Tank Leak

So I gave OREGONLOGGER's Indian Head gasket sealer method a try and still have a major seal failure. I re-used the original gasket which appeared to still be in really good shape, though showed significant indentation where the ridge of the tank base should obviously create one for the seal itself. There was a previous attempt at fixing the leak with some type of sealer applied only at the rear corners of the tank, which as mentioned in a previous post, probably just created a bigger leak, but was easily cleaned up with no residue on the tank surface areas or the gasket. I was reluctant to soak the gasket in anything that may interfere with the shellac curing, so I just went with it as it was and applied the sealer to both surfaces and let cure for a while before assembly per the instructions. Snagged a good fuel line from an old 10-10 donor, put it together, let it sit for 24 hours. Still leaked just as bad as before. And when I pulled it back apart, the shellac was pretty runny again vs. real gummy/tacky like when I put things back together.

So..., a couple of questions;

What is adequate "drying time for this stuff? (The Indian Head sealer.)

Is it possible the gasket is too compressed and has lost enough thickness to even be close to effective...even with the sealer?

Is the original thickness of the gasket 1/8"? (Looks like it around the edges.)

As for Fel-Pro at the local auto parts store, they only carry the 1/16" stuff, so if the compression already present in the existing gasket isn't sealing, I doubt that a new, thinner gasket would be much better...and I assume doubling up a pair of thinner ones would not exactly receive a ringing endorsement from you guys, either. Plus, just cutting one would be bad enough.

The Red-Kote is tempting, but it's mighty expensive and the smallest available container size is a quart.

And finally, I have a real mess of shellac that needs cleaned up before I can give this another shot by whatever method. What's the best solvent for dissolving this stuff? Mineral spirits barely puts a dent in it. Lacquer thinner maybe? (Don't have any on hand to try at the moment.) Gas has some effect, but not much...and shouldn't according to what the sealer is intended to seal.

TIA for any additional advice / input as usual. Would sure like to get this rascal running along side the other two!

Oh yeah, is this the Indian Head stuff everyone refers to? It's what I used.

attachment.php
 
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With the indentation you have in the gasket i would
say you have lost your squish and can no longer seal.
I would find a new gasket or make one. You can try
McMaster carr for gasket material.






Lee
 
With the indentation you have in the gasket i would
say you have lost your squish and can no longer seal.
I would find a new gasket or make one. You can try
McMaster carr for gasket material.

Lee

Thanks for the response..., and you are probably correct. I just tried to compress the gasket with some needle nosed pliers and there wasn't much squish there at all.

Is original thickness 1/8"? and is a rubber / cork combo material like the Fel-Pro stuff the best way to go?
 
Can't send you messages promac says your box is full

Cleared some space.

and stuff.

Yeah, and more stuff. Too hot to tinker on saws lately. Supposed to rain all next week, so I figure one 850 will be put together. Kept getting sidetracked with a few other projects that needed to be done, like a customer's creamsickle in the recent rebuild/mild porting thread I made on it.

Gotta put tools away and make room to assemble it before anything else... amazing how flat surfaces collect anything and everything just because it can be set there... saws suddenly found their way here, and now are all over the place. Not a problem... I'll get some of them sold and some more shelves put up for the rest.


cowroy, did you receive the piston/connecting rod I sent to you for your 805 rebuild?
 
So I gave OREGONLOGGER's Indian Head gasket sealer method a try and still have a major seal failure. I re-used the original gasket which appeared to still be in really good shape, though showed significant indentation where the ridge of the tank base should obviously create one for the seal itself. There was a previous attempt at fixing the leak with some type of sealer applied only at the rear corners of the tank, which as mentioned in a previous post, probably just created a bigger leak, but was easily cleaned up with no residue on the tank surface areas or the gasket. I was reluctant to soak the gasket in anything that may interfere with the shellac curing, so I just went with it as it was and applied the sealer to both surfaces and let cure for a while before assembly per the instructions. Snagged a good fuel line from an old 10-10 donor, put it together, let it sit for 24 hours. Still leaked just as bad as before. And when I pulled it back apart, the shellac was pretty runny again vs. real gummy/tacky like when I put things back together.

So..., a couple of questions;

What is adequate "drying time for this stuff? (The Indian Head sealer.)

Is it possible the gasket is too compressed and has lost enough thickness to even be close to effective...even with the sealer?

Is the original thickness of the gasket 1/8"? (Looks like it around the edges.)

As for Fel-Pro at the local auto parts store, they only carry the 1/16" stuff, so if the compression already present in the existing gasket isn't sealing, I doubt that a new, thinner gasket would be much better...and I assume doubling up a pair of thinner ones would not exactly receive a ringing endorsement from you guys, either. Plus, just cutting one would be bad enough.

The Red-Kote is tempting, but it's mighty expensive and the smallest available container size is a quart.

And finally, I have a real mess of shellac that needs cleaned up before I can give this another shot by whatever method. What's the best solvent for dissolving this stuff? Mineral spirits barely puts a dent in it. Lacquer thinner maybe? (Don't have any on hand to try at the moment.) Gas has some effect, but not much...and shouldn't according to what the sealer is intended to seal.

TIA for any additional advice / input as usual. Would sure like to get this rascal running along side the other two!

Oh yeah, is this the Indian Head stuff everyone refers to? It's what I used.

attachment.php

I use permatex motoseal on all my 10-10 tank gaskets. just separate the two halves, leave the old gasket in the groove and let it dry out overnight. wipe the two surfaces with brake clean or carb clean or alcohol and apply motoseal the both surfaces. then bolt it back together and wipe the excess off. let it cure overnight. no more leak!:rock:
 
I use permatex motoseal on all my 10-10 tank gaskets. just separate the two halves, leave the old gasket in the groove and let it dry out overnight. wipe the two surfaces with brake clean or carb clean or alcohol and apply motoseal the both surfaces. then bolt it back together and wipe the excess off. let it cure overnight. no more leak!:rock:

Well, I'm going the new gasket route since I found an area shop with the 3019 1/8" Fel-Pro. Trust me, I've been tempted to just goop everything up with Permatex whatever and cross my fingers, but cleaning up anther failed attempt isn't something I want to do again any time soon after spending the afternoon getting rid of the Indian Head stuff.:msp_angry: Turns out, it doesn't like WD-40 and a few shots and some soaking loosened it up enough to remove with a brass brush after a rinse/soak in the parts washer for good measure. Next step is a hose-down with some brake cleaner and a final wash of Blue Dawn and water before a rinse and dry.

Here's where I am now with the tank base...

attachment.php


The cover is finishing up another soak in the parts washer, but looks pretty good as well.

Now to make a decent template for a new gasket...
 

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