McCulloch Chain Saws

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Oh, ok thanks. As long as nothing is gonna fall inside I'm gonna try and will report back
 
You where right mark, there is a screw on the rear center of the pump that is under the fuel tank. I think I'm just gonna mess with the adjustment a little and see if I can get it working before I go to all the trouble of tearing it that far apart.
 
I messed with the 440 some tonight, and although it does run it seems to run somewhat erratically. I think it needs crank seals after 50+ years so I'm gonna go ahead and replace those before I go much further. The jury is still out on the flatback carb although this is the best I've ever had a flatback run. I'm gonna stick it out as long as I can, if it doesn't work out I will put a tilly on like my other two big macs.
 
Check out the PM 850 rebuild underway for me. Got to put this 850/800 performance stuff to the test.

I don't know how to simply link the thread so here is the first post - click the arrow to get to the thread.

Doing a rebuild on a McCulloch Pro Mac 850.
Started out pretty dirty. Compression at 150psi.
Performed a leak down test and found blow by threw the rings.
Performed pressure test on the crank case and found the PTO side crank case seal leaking. During tare down it had string wrapped around the PTO crank case seal. See pic)
After a lot of cleaning got it apart.

Ron
 
Anyone have a part number for the electronic ignition lope-less crankshaft for a PM850 manufactured right before the PM800's introduction? My build is at a stand still. Can't make out the number on the crank - pretty much identical to the PM800 but 1/8" or so longer.

Thanks, Ron
 
Thanks, guys. Those are the same numbers I have. Neither lead to the crankshaft I am looking for. There are two used ones on eBay but no numbers. I would like to find a NOS but without a number that is pretty hard to do. I may have to risk a used one. Mine has a few grooves on the pto side that my builder thinks are too deep for a good seal.

Thanks again, Ron
 
Actually you should be able to get a nice example of either model for less than $100.

The MAC 15 was an attempt at a consumer saw, and there were many of them made. They look interesting, but don't really have any great intrinsic value.

The 33/35/39 Series saws are more interesting in my opinion since there were so many model variations and attachments that could be used with then; direct drive drill, spur reduction drill, ice auger, brush cutter, and circle bow to name a few. Still, even a clean saw does not demand over $100 as there were literally thousands made. In deed the 33/35/39 Series saw had one of the longest production runs of all the McCulloch saws.

Just my $0.02...

Mark
 
Thats what I was thinking too, not that the wife would let me get them anyways. there's some really nice saws that pop up now and again though
 
Vintage races I presume? A lot will depend on the classes, at Baraboo there are gear drive, under 5 In³ gear drive, over 5 In³ gear drive, under 5 In³ direct drive, over 5 In³ direct drive, and hot saws, and finally an under 2 In³ class for beginners.

Under 5 In³ gear drive: my 2-10G has been surprisingly competitive and I will have a 5-10G this year.
Over 5 In³ gear drive: the 77 and 1-85 both have placed. I expect a good 660 or even better a fresh 895 would be nice

Under 5 In³ direct drive: 250, 1-51, SP80/81, 3 or 4 years ago a 10-10 finished second in the under 5 In³ direct drive races in Baraboo with a sharp chain and a smooth operator.
Over 5 In³ direct drive: My SP125 has placed, I expect a 797 or a fresh CP125 would also be a good choice. I think a nice fresh SP105 with a sharp chain could also be highly competitive.

No doubt there are many other excellent possibilities, my thinking is clouded by my experiences and saws on hand. Any fresh saw with a sharp chain and a steady hand will be in the thick of it.

If you have to make two or more cuts (down/up) get a roller or sprocket nose bar as a hard nose bar nearly stops on the up cut.

Are you planning to join us in August?

Mark
 

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