astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I too, find that wierd
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Look up the history of lead in paint. It was eliminated in most exterior paints in the early 70s. Banned from interior paints in 1978.
I have an architect friend who swears there has never been a durable paint since.
Ron
I have an architect friend who swears there has never been a durable paint since.
Ron
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I believe it!
That is true but industrial applications were not banned from using lead. The legislation came long after the early Mac's were losing their paint.
The US has no regulations as of 2015 and maybe now restricting the use of lead in paint except for residential applications. That doesn't include furniture.
Not good for people, especially kids.
The US has no regulations as of 2015 and maybe now restricting the use of lead in paint except for residential applications. That doesn't include furniture.
Not good for people, especially kids.
Poge, if the 82cc Macs have the same tank as 10-10's I'm sure I have a spare I'd be happy to send you. Just let me know.
The tanks for the anti-vibe saws are different from the rigid mounts. The tanks for the rigid mount saws have a removable top and require a gasket and have only one threaded boss for the mount to the oil tank. The ant-vibe tanks are sealed units and have two bosses with threaded holes for the front mount and two holes in the air box for the rear mounts.
Tanks for the rigid mount saws also have the channel for the oiler rod through the air box, I don't think there is any way to make them accept the rear mount for the anti-vibe. Ignore the custom fuel line in this one, this is a "before" photo.
I was able one time to take the tank apart for an SP70 that was leaking but broke all of the screws that hold it together in the process, had to drill them out and re-tap all of the holes, one or two requires inserts after that.
Jim - post a photo of your PM800 over in the NOS chainsaw thread to show the folks even a new old saw can be put to work.
Poge - Red Cote is your friend in a case like this, but I will be watching to see if the green Loctite is fuel proof. I might suggest a longer piece of rope as well...
Mark
Tanks for the rigid mount saws also have the channel for the oiler rod through the air box, I don't think there is any way to make them accept the rear mount for the anti-vibe. Ignore the custom fuel line in this one, this is a "before" photo.
I was able one time to take the tank apart for an SP70 that was leaking but broke all of the screws that hold it together in the process, had to drill them out and re-tap all of the holes, one or two requires inserts after that.
Jim - post a photo of your PM800 over in the NOS chainsaw thread to show the folks even a new old saw can be put to work.
Poge - Red Cote is your friend in a case like this, but I will be watching to see if the green Loctite is fuel proof. I might suggest a longer piece of rope as well...
Mark
In an effort to be a more complete McCulloch guy, I tackled a 300 Series saw this weekend, my brother gave this one to me, said he found it at his local dump site in northern WI. Someone had been in this saw before me and there were a number of screws and other bits missing. Compression is very good, muffler was off and someone had tried to tap the holes oversize but didn't do a very nice job of it so I drilled and tapped for 10-24 Helicoil inserts.
While they are quite different from any of the vintage McCulloch saws I have worked on, they really aren't that bad if you understand the procedure. I do have a copy of the 300 Series service manual which helps and a good selection of parts that came from one of my "finds"; I finally discovered what a few of those bits in the cabinets are for. The cable operated throttle is different from any other saw I have worked on, requires 2-1/2 hands or more to get everything back in place once you have separated the handle halves.
I had an issue with the throttle not wanting to close but I think I have it worked out now. I will try to get this one all back together tonight.
Mark
While they are quite different from any of the vintage McCulloch saws I have worked on, they really aren't that bad if you understand the procedure. I do have a copy of the 300 Series service manual which helps and a good selection of parts that came from one of my "finds"; I finally discovered what a few of those bits in the cabinets are for. The cable operated throttle is different from any other saw I have worked on, requires 2-1/2 hands or more to get everything back in place once you have separated the handle halves.
I had an issue with the throttle not wanting to close but I think I have it worked out now. I will try to get this one all back together tonight.
Mark
That's mighty nice of you, Jim. Much appreciated. (And it's good to see you checking in again.) I have an orphaned 10-10 tank/handle, but quickly discovered the differences Mark explained.
Six pre-cut lengths of new rope came with the saw -- long enough, but 2mm too thick. Looks like 3mm or 3.5mm is what is needed. I also noticed there's no pin fastening hole in the pulley hub for the rope as in some of the 10-10's I've seen, but rather two holes that form a channel in the hub to accept the end of the rope. And the rope that was there (what was left of it) was knotted and super compressed (as if by a vise) to fit after being threaded through the channel.
As for the Loctite, it's supposed to be 'oil resistant' and work well "even on oily threads". No mention of fuel resistance. I'm just concerned about water resistance at this stage and will know about that later today, though it would also be the right time to do a RedKote application and be done with it. Not sure how available it may be locally, tho.
And has anyone used Rust-Oleum Aircraft Remover for paint removal, then their metal etching spray before priming? Looks like a pretty effective and economical process for doing a real nice paint job on a saw project -- rattle can or spray gun. Happened to see it used in a total resto vid of a motorcycle fuel tank where Red-Kote was used as the liner. Good vid all the way around.
Red Cote is normally available at you local O'Reillys auto parts stores.
The standard way to secure the rope in the starter pulley is to install a small pin or rivet through the rope to prevent it from pulling through. McCulloch even made a special tool for installing the rivets in the rope, like a oversize needle that is hollow on the big end, insert the rivet in the tool, press it through the rope, and pull the tool on through leaving the rivet in the rope. Without the tool you just create an opening through the rope with an awl and try to get the rivet poked through. I have used a brad clipped off in place of the rivet before I found a packet full of rivets in one of my parts finds.
Mark
The standard way to secure the rope in the starter pulley is to install a small pin or rivet through the rope to prevent it from pulling through. McCulloch even made a special tool for installing the rivets in the rope, like a oversize needle that is hollow on the big end, insert the rivet in the tool, press it through the rope, and pull the tool on through leaving the rivet in the rope. Without the tool you just create an opening through the rope with an awl and try to get the rivet poked through. I have used a brad clipped off in place of the rivet before I found a packet full of rivets in one of my parts finds.
Mark
From what I had read the move from lead began years before the ban. Bear in mind, I don't know whether or not McCulloch's paint had lead or not, but I would bet it did on the early saws. I have lost plenty of bets.
Ron
Lead chromate was always the best, brightest yellow.
Mark
Mark
I located 1 can among the several area O'Reilly's stores for $32.99 + tax and an eBay source in Fla. selling it for $24.99 with free shipping. The Florida guy wins. The tank is holding water so far but will still get the Red-Kote. I've already gone this far and it only makes sense to do it right.
I also have an envelope of the starter rope brads plus a little bag of actual roll type pins. I seem to recall a hole in the hub of my first 10-10 specifically for the pin to be driven into vs. just pushing the pin through the rope to keep it from sliding back through the channel. The later seems much easier and equally as effective.
I once found an abandoned, but nice looking, galvanized 5 gallon fuel can full of water. Made my day. I cleaned it up and filled it full of gasoline. Came back to an empty can. Found that it would hold water but not gas. I threw it in the trash as the first guy should have done.
Ron
That's weird Ron. Any idea why?
Above my pay grade. To hazard a guess, maybe because gasoline has less viscosity than water or maybe I cleaned out some slime that had clogged the invisible holes in the seams and bottom.
Ron
Or someone stole your gas!
Nope. You could see where it seeped. Ron
Was just kidding. Water is quite a bit more viscous than gas. Plus gas is a pretty strong solvent, so I can see how it could happen.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Surface tension perhaps?
Not enough oil in the mix. Just kidding, it was straight gas. Unleaded I believe. Ron
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