And aren't the 1-70, 1-71, and 1-72 all 87cc's?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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And aren't the 1-70, 1-71, and 1-72 all 87cc's?
Is SRA-222-B1C what's stamped on your tip?
That's the Windsor number in the listing. No part number on the Mac tip I have. Just .050 and 3/8P
Have a look at these tips and see if you can match it up. A pic of the bar tip you have might help.
http://www.forestershop.com/chainsaw-replacement-sprocket-noses.html
If that doesn't work, I know Aaron told me awhile ago that he had a bunch of three rivet Windsor tips.
Hi fellows.
I played around with a Super 44 today. Far as I can tell, it runs pretty well on a HL that looks like it hasn't been into in a long, long time. I am not sure what are "normal" L and H settings for these. What do you listen for in the tune with the governor in place? Is the governor always fluttering WOT unloaded? I have it set around 7/8 L and 1 3/8 H. HL neophyte I am.
Thought I would just tune it in a log. Couldn't run the saw, get at eye level to look through the knockout hole, and steady a driver at the same time.
Nonetheless, I enjoyed the music for awhile.
I played around with a Super 44 today. Far as I can tell, it runs pretty well on a HL that looks like it hasn't been into in a long, long time. I am not sure what are "normal" L and H settings for these. What do you listen for in the tune with the governor in place? Is the governor always fluttering WOT unloaded? I have it set around 7/8 L and 1 3/8 H. HL neophyte I am.
Thought I would just tune it in a log. Couldn't run the saw, get at eye level to look through the knockout hole, and steady a driver at the same time.
Nonetheless, I enjoyed the music for awhile.
Carb governors open to dump fuel at a certain frequency (vibration ) level so it should be dumping in extra fuel at high no load RPM's.
I've often thought of trying to find one of these for tuning while running. Split blade screwdrivers that lock on the slot. You can't reef on them but they are great for holding slot screws to get them started. Should hold for tuning as well if the slots aren't too wide.
http://www.quickwedge.com/Original-Series
I've often thought of trying to find one of these for tuning while running. Split blade screwdrivers that lock on the slot. You can't reef on them but they are great for holding slot screws to get them started. Should hold for tuning as well if the slots aren't too wide.
http://www.quickwedge.com/Original-Series
We used to use those screwdrivers in certain situations when I was wiring houses etc with my dad many years ago. Handy when you were reaching deep into a panel or fumbling with cover plate screws. I am going to grab one from him next visit.
I should have mentioned that the governor is not the high speed ball/spring check. It is the air vane governor. I was trying to get it so it wouldn't flutter/bounce, but it was really rich at that point.
Mark would know best but I would tape or tie it back so it doesn't move to tune the high side starting out pig rich. I might blow it up doing that though .
You are correct Poge - the 44 is 72cc, Super 44 is 80cc, and Super 44A is 87cc; I thought the 1-70 was same as the Super 44 and only the 1-71 and 1-72 was 87cc like the Super 44A, the 1-75 is 95cc and the 1-76 is 99cc.
Cory - I expect you need more like 1 turn on the H, for set up you can force the throttle wide open with a screw driver or similar device for a few seconds to make sure you have a little burble at WOT.
On my 1-85 I have adjusted the governor to let it wind up a bit more, just putting your hand over the air intake on the flywheel cover limits the air flow and you can hear it speed up quite a lot.
Mark
Cory - I expect you need more like 1 turn on the H, for set up you can force the throttle wide open with a screw driver or similar device for a few seconds to make sure you have a little burble at WOT.
On my 1-85 I have adjusted the governor to let it wind up a bit more, just putting your hand over the air intake on the flywheel cover limits the air flow and you can hear it speed up quite a lot.
Mark
Thanks. It's the first one listed. Was going to check Forester but found the other two first.
Here the 1-70 I bought yesterday , it seems to be in good condition except for the cylinder cover and muffler deflector missing , it needed a set of carb seals and after a normal sharp on the chain it was ready for test in wood . Bar is her original one , the saw has been bought new by the grandfather of the seller
It runs very good but I won't be using it to much before I find the cover because I think it isn't very good for air cooling as well as the regulator governor . And when you are cuting wood you take a lot of chips in your face which I don't realy like
If anyone can PM the ipl it would be perfect
It runs very good but I won't be using it to much before I find the cover because I think it isn't very good for air cooling as well as the regulator governor . And when you are cuting wood you take a lot of chips in your face which I don't realy like
If anyone can PM the ipl it would be perfect
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I picked up a Super Pro 70 the other day, and I'm wondering if a sprocket from a Pro Mac 10-10 or similar saw will fit the SP70?
Yep, one and the same.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok thank you!
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I'm in the process of restoring a 4-30. Can anyone tell me how the recoil over-running clutch thing works and how it comes apart? I have the IPL but its quite grainy. The cable reel is off and the starter shaft is now seemingly stuck and won't turn, and can't seem to be driven out. Thanks!
Sorry - I'm away until 30 May
Mark
Mark
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
So it looks like I should be able to just drive #22 straight out? and then the spring (#19) should also just pull right out?
Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it.
Certainly looks that way in the illustration, but...
I'd try some heat on the housing to see if that may loosen things up before applying excessive pressure to the shaft. Maybe hold the assembly with a vise by the shaft itself and rotate the heated housing or use a two jaw puller to press the shaft out?
Unless there's a mystery clip holding the shaft, I'd assume there's some binding of the spring hanging things up.
I'd try some heat on the housing to see if that may loosen things up before applying excessive pressure to the shaft. Maybe hold the assembly with a vise by the shaft itself and rotate the heated housing or use a two jaw puller to press the shaft out?
Unless there's a mystery clip holding the shaft, I'd assume there's some binding of the spring hanging things up.
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I ran into something weird on my unidentified mcculloch chainsaw with a MC100 cart motor installed. These are the seals removed
There were two on top of each other on the flywheel side.
The clutch side seal had a messed up edge.
Is any of this original?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There were two on top of each other on the flywheel side.
The clutch side seal had a messed up edge.
Is any of this original?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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