McCulloch Chain Saws

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Great saw and 3 lbs lighter tban a pm700.

Where is all the extra weight in a PM700? 3lbs seems like an awful lot.

I tried the carb off my good running 10-10 last year with the same result. That is what led to the search for air leaks.

So much for that idea. What kind of setup do you use for vac/pressure testing? Guess you could still have a leak somewhere that simply hasn't been detected.

I will try to look at the 045 tomorrow.

I've done a ground up rebuild of an 045 and have any documentation you may need. There are some nuances along the production history that you won't find included with the commonly available digital media. Be more than happy to assist if there's anything I can do to help.

Good looking 044, btw.
 
I have a pressure tester that I made that allows me to hook an air hose up through a compression tester adapter. Just a pressure regulator, a gauge, and a couple of valves.
I lack anything to perform a proper vacuum test. Plus on this saw, the compression release seems to be a constant leak source at least under pressure. So not sure if you could even get an accurate vac test. I was told not to worry too much about the compression release.
 
I have a pressure tester that I made that allows me to hook an air hose up through a compression tester adapter. Just a pressure regulator, a gauge, and a couple of valves.
I lack anything to perform a proper vacuum test. Plus on this saw, the compression release seems to be a constant leak source at least under pressure. So not sure if you could even get an accurate vac test. I was told not to worry too much about the compression release.

It’s been so long I don’t remember the details but I had a saw that drove me nuts with what I thought was fuel/air related but it turned out to be ignition related.

The good news about this info is that it will be easy for you to swap ignition parts compared to resealing. It wouldn’t hurt to swap all ignition items.

Sorry if this was already tried and I missed it.

Joey
 
Hey guys, so I was removing the fuel line from my 10-10 so I could wrap it with Teflon and reinstall but low and behold the line tore. I was watching videos from the chainsaw guy on YouTube and he used to sell a kit with a line, grommet and filter. This video is from a few years back and the link to the website to purchase the kit is no longer working. I figured due to the age of the video and the chainsaw guy being retired that you couldn't find his kit anymore. Is there a way to still find his kit? If not does anyone know what size fuel line and grommet he used? Any ideas?
Scott
 
It’s been so long I don’t remember the details but I had a saw that drove me nuts with what I thought was fuel/air related but it turned out to be ignition related.

The good news about this info is that it will be easy for you to swap ignition parts compared to resealing. It wouldn’t hurt to swap all ignition items.

Sorry if this was already tried and I missed it.

Joey
I dont think its ignition related but it might be worth a check. I just hesitate to pull apart one of my goos working saws to rob parts just to end up with two non running saws.

Can too rich a low setting cause an off idle stumble? I believe I started at 3/4 turn low and 1 turn high.
I definitely went richer with the low from there but not sure where I ended up. I think I went a tad leaner than 1 turn on the high.
 
I dont think its ignition related but it might be worth a check. I just hesitate to pull apart one of my goos working saws to rob parts just to end up with two non running saws.

Can too rich a low setting cause an off idle stumble? I believe I started at 3/4 turn low and 1 turn high.
I definitely went richer with the low from there but not sure where I ended up. I think I went a tad leaner than 1 turn on the high.

Incorrect carburetor settings could definitely cause some of the issues you’re describing but you’ve not been able to fix those issues by tuning. Plus you’ve already tried a carburetor and new fuel line so that means we shouldn’t tell you to find or search for an issue mechanically inside the carburetor. If it was a carburetor or tuning or fuel issue I believe you would have already fixed it.

We started having some warmer days and I was using the mini Mac and it was acting funny not wanting to idle and only wanting to run at wide open throttle. I fooled with the carburetor for three or four days while using it and never could get it to act right. Not three or four days in a row but every time I would grab that chainsaw I knew that I needed to grab my screwdriver because something wasn’t right. It started raining on me one day and I was working on it under a shed with no lighting and when I started pulling the starter rope I could see a spark between one of the carburetor adjustment screws and the housing. I was only able to see this tiny little spark because it was so dark. I have not broke that saw down to find out what the issue is but it was pretty obvious that a lot of my spark energy is wasted.
 
Kevin,be careful & keep track of where your settings are.I burned up a Homelite SEZ last May by not keeping track of where the lo setting was at.The culprit in my case was a fuel cap not venting.It migt be worth a try to put a different fuel cap on your saw & see if that makes a difference.Sometimes a simple fix can be the most elusive to catch.
Ed
 
Cannot answer for the exact accuaracy of my scale vs anyone elses scale but both chainsaws are empty of fuel. Both chainsaws have 20" bars. Both chainsaws have .375 oregon chain. And i have a difference from 16.25lbs to 19.25 lbs. Thats where i got the 3 lbs. Give or take, rounded up or down. 20190314_112846.jpg 20190314_113048.jpg
 
Cannot answer for the exact accuaracy of my scale vs anyone elses scale but both chainsaws are empty of fuel. Both chainsaws have 20" bars. Both chainsaws have .375 oregon chain. And i have a difference from 16.25lbs to 19.25 lbs. Thats where i got the 3 lbs. Give or take, rounded up or down. View attachment 722884 View attachment 722886

Best way is to weigh without the bar and chain. That eliminates the variance in bar and chain weights. The bar weights for the same length can vary quite a bit.

Without known weights to check the scale weigh some meat from the store with a store printed weigh tag on it. Turkey's are a good one.
 
And while we are on the topic of things not going right. I had the 1-86 running like a top last week, just needed to make some test cuts with it. Went out to do that tonight and its starving for fuel[emoji35] wont rev out have to feather the choke to keep it running etc. Has a new fuel wick, fuel line, and one of those Chinese Tillotson clone carbs that I was duped into buying by guys raving about them on the facebook groups.
At this point, I think I'm just gonna get a kit and rebuild the Tilly that came with the saw. Lesson learned.

I've got a few saws running the Chinese carbs, but they all seem to have some sort of defect that keeps them from running properly out of the box. In my experience with them its typical to have them work perfectly one day, then puke fuel the next. I only buy them to replace carbs where the kits are NLA or too expensive or if the carb is corroded beyond repair.
 
Best way is to weigh without the bar and chain. That eliminates the variance in bar and chain weights. The bar weights for the same length can vary quite a bit.

Without known weights to check the scale weigh some meat from the store with a store printed weigh tag on it. Turkey's are a good one.
Ok tim, no bar, no chain, no fuel, no oil, same bar nuts on both saws....3 lbs. I am not touching the saws in any way. I have not manipulated the scale in any way. There is no hidden weights anywhere. 20190314_153956.jpg 20190314_153935.jpg 20190314_154731.jpg 20190314_154737.jpg 20190314_152501.jpg 20190314_152544.jpg 20190314_153956.jpg 20190314_153956.jpg
 
Got 2 doubles of the pm700 at the end somehow. As you can see i even weighed a 15.25lb turkey as suggested. The scale reads pretty darn close to 15.25lbs for the turkey. It may be off an oz or so but its close. The saws though are still 3lbs different. Im not weighing anything else. The 700 is heavier than the 7-10a by 3lbs. I dont know why.
 
Got 2 doubles of the pm700 at the end somehow. As you can see i even weighed a 15.25lb turkey as suggested. The scale reads pretty darn close to 15.25lbs for the turkey. It may be off an oz or so but its close. The saws though are still 3lbs different. Im not weighing anything else. The 700 is heavier than the 7-10a by 3lbs. I dont know why.

While you have the bars off weigh the two clutch covers. Thanks, Ron
 
This is what I get. I just re-weighed them. I'd like to calibrate but I ate the turkey.

PM700 Long brake cover 15.5 lb 7.03 Kg (late model black and yellow w/grey crankcase)
7-10A Short brake cover 13.9 lb 6.31 Kg

I think we are sort of close on the 7-10's. Your 7-10 has the earlier handle / tank casting which may account for some difference on the 7-10's

but I can't figure the 700's.

If I get a few minutes after dinner I'll do the yellow 700 and the clutch covers for Ron

I'm certainly not doubting your scale. I weighed my CP125 which came out at 22.55 lbs which makes sense but maybe a little light.

I think Mark has weighed some on a proper scale.
 
So I decided to check the 7-10 and see where the carb adjustments really are.
I found that I ended up with the H set at about 1 and 1/4 turns but the low........ only about 1/2 turn. So the low seems adjusted too lean which is confirmed by the off idle bog. But on the other hand it seems rich because I cant get an idle...... help me understand this..
If I go richer from where I am at the idle quality goes away and i run out of adjustment to bring the idle speed up. If I go leaner from where I am at I can get a beutiful smooth idle but it comes with a terrible lean bog as would be expected at a setting that lean.
Is there a break over point I am not reaching in richening the low where the idle will start to come back the other way? What are the factory recommended starting points? I have always done 1 turn on the high and 3/4 to 1 turn on the low.
 
I dont think its ignition related but it might be worth a check. I just hesitate to pull apart one of my goos working saws to rob parts just to end up with two non running saws.

Can too rich a low setting cause an off idle stumble? I believe I started at 3/4 turn low and 1 turn high.
I definitely went richer with the low from there but not sure where I ended up. I think I went a tad leaner than 1 turn on the high.

Kevin,

Does you idle speed adjust look like the one on my 7-10?

IMG_0917.JPG
 
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