McCulloch Chain Saws

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Scored a bucket list Mac tonight. Got a 7-10 in a 3 saw deal. The other 2 are a 3200 and a Mini Mac 30. Probably send the other 2 down the road but excited about getting the 7-10 going. The good; its pretty clean, clean inside tank, fuel line looks good, pulls over smooth, working decomp valve, tons of compression. The bad; broken lower section of clutch cover and missing muffler coverView attachment 893270
Bet ya 50c that 3200 has a broken/missing oil line.
 
I collect Mcculloch chainsaws of all sizes and shapes until the J.F. generation. No pictures just a lot of saws. Mini-Macs - 125s, any of them. Do not find many around here but when I do I usually try and buy them. Most of my smaller Stihls, Pioneers and Homelites will go away soon to make more room for Mccullochs.

Had a good run of luck finding 1-10 and 10-10 series saws early this year and then no more Macs to be found again. It gives me something to look for.
Hello
I have a near mint 4600, I know considered a "newer" mac, but seems to have decent construction and I have yet to see another one. What, if anything do you know about this saw, I know it's 46cc's.
 
The 4600 is a Jenn Feng era saw. They are not terrible homeowner type saws but they really cannot compare with even a semi-pro model that would be contemporary. In general they were rather high compression (200 PSI is not uncommon) and were put together with better materials that some of the last McCulloch saws and the Titan (Italian McCulloch factory) saws.

I had an MS2050AV for a while, it cannot compare with a 10-10, it was pretty comparable to the Jonsered 2050 that I have.

20200322_140440.jpg

Mark
 
This site is going bonkers...looks as though we have recovered the early March posts, but now have lost the posts from last couple days.

Oh well, I got the 7-10 running good last night. Didn't even open the carb. After initially popping it over 2 nights ago it fired right up last night and ran great! Idled fine, revs up nice, very responsive, and even working oiler.

However, found out why it was likely shelved. When I picked it up I knew muffler cover was missing. I didn't realize the upper bolt was broke in the hole though. This is gonna take a bit of work since it's the one that threads through muffler into cylinder.20210309_072033.jpg
 
Front Tank Mac


-Open piston pin bearing: Koyo B-88. Wrist pin bearings Koyo B-88 open, M871 closed

-Closed piston pin bearing: Koyo M-871.

-FW seal: 50663. SKF/CR 6763. Possibly also SKF 6522 (unconfirmed)

-PTO seal for ball bearing saws: 104432. SKF 6640. SKF 6816.

-PTO seal for needle bearing saws: 104128. SKF 7414.

-FW Bearing: 100824. POSSIBLY the same as 66016 as used on the top tank saws....and POSSIBLY 6203 C3. Will investigate.....

-PTO Bearing for ball bearing saws: 100824. See above.

-PTO Bearing for needle bearing saws: 104129.

Top Tank Mac

-F/W inner seal: 57898. Aftermarket? 30x17x7

-F/W outer seal: 57897. Aftermarket?

-PTO seal: 104432 or 104486. SKF 6640. SKF 6816. 35x17x7

-Bearings: 66016. IIRC they are 6203 C3 bearings. Will confirm /update.


Mark
To add to this, the needle bearing 104129 is Torrington p/n B-1210 according to my 1-43.
 
Can someone tell me generic p/n's for RH 10-series crankshaft bearings? I'm trying to get a complete chart of generic equivalents for all the bearings/seals on Macs that I own, and I still need crank and piston pin bearing #'s for RH 10-series, and any and all bearing/seal #'s for a Power Mac 6.
 
Well had to drill and retap threads. All is good now. Muffler cover was the best one I have for this style muffler.20210309_215520.jpg
Saw fired up on second pull. Seems to run great.


Just gotta swap a better chain on it so I can make a test cut.

Question about spark plug. Should it have threaded terminal removed? Fits really loose on plug wire. I tried a plug with terminal in place and won't fit in plug boot.
 
Hi Mogulmasher

Can you show me how that idle adjuster screw sits against your carb? My 7-10A screw even when screwed right in seems to barely touch the lever on the carby - I haven't had it fully running yet (waiting on fuel tank gasket) so I cannot say for sure that it does nothing but it looks like it would have next to no impact on the idle.
 
Well had to drill and retap threads. All is good now. Muffler cover was the best one I have for this style muffler.View attachment 893842
Saw fired up on second pull. Seems to run great.


Just gotta swap a better chain on it so I can make a test cut.

Question about spark plug. Should it have threaded terminal removed? Fits really loose on plug wire. I tried a plug with terminal in place and won't fit in plug boot.

Sometimes it's just some rust between the coils of the spring inside the boot , makes it dam near impossible to push it on the plug.
Spray some wd40 or something like that in there. It should take quite a bit of pressure to get it to snap on but the plug is meant to have the top on.
 
Hi Mogulmasher

Can you show me how that idle adjuster screw sits against your carb? My 7-10A screw even when screwed right in seems to barely touch the lever on the carby - I haven't had it fully running yet (waiting on fuel tank gasket) so I cannot say for sure that it does nothing but it looks like it would have next to no impact on the idle.
Yes Little Jerry I can take a pic of it when I get home tonight. I can say though it too only barely touches throttle lever. It only needs to be slightly cracked open to idle.
Sometimes it's just some rust between the coils of the spring inside the boot , makes it dam near impossible to push it on the plug.
Spray some wd40 or something like that in there. It should take quite a bit of pressure to get it to snap on but the plug is meant to have the top on.
Thanks! I will check it out. I figured cap needed to be on plug like every other 10 series but you never know with Mac if it would have had a different spark plug boot.
 
Hi Mogulmasher

Can you show me how that idle adjuster screw sits against your carb? My 7-10A screw even when screwed right in seems to barely touch the lever on the carby - I haven't had it fully running yet (waiting on fuel tank gasket) so I cannot say for sure that it does nothing but it looks like it would have next to no impact on the idle.

The idle speed adjust screw on a 7-10 has a pretty good down angle. I don't think you will have any issues. Mine looks exactly as you describe yours.
 
Yes Little Jerry I can take a pic of it when I get home tonight. I can say though it too only barely touches throttle lever. It only needs to be slightly cracked open to idle.

Thanks! I will check it out. I figured cap needed to be on plug like every other 10 series but you never know with Mac if it would have had a different spark plug boot.
The propensity to step on the wire while starting the saw may have led someone to change the plug boot, if they ripped the original.
 
What's the recommended start sequence for a RH 10 series? Specifically a 2-10.
Spend 5 minutes pulling it over, notice the kill switch is on.... oh wait, you said recommended, not typical. My bad. What I'd do is prime it (if it has a bullfrog use the button, otherwise mix down the intake), choke it, pull it over a couple of times and see if it pops. If it doesn't, flick off the choke and give it 10-15 pulls. If it still hasn't popped, blow out the cylinder and repeat the above sequence. If it pops, flick off the choke and fire it up. If it revs and dies, another 5 pulls unchoked. If it doesn't pop during those 5, choke it and pull on it till it pops, shut off the choke and fire it up!
 
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