McCulloch Chain Saws

[bob kern]

There were too many chainsaws in the way for me to get to my Coleman generator.

I have some extra space.... lol

 

[gloud]

I watched the vid. I had a suburban load of saws years ago, quite a few went to folks here, and I rebuilt many and either sold and passed them one to new owners or kept them. Do you plan on selling parts?

 

[rwoods]

I am working on a Promac 800 that had a bad piston, (was able to clean up the cylinder ok) One thing I noticed is that there was quite a bit of chain oil in the crankcase when I took it apart. I know the oiler is connected to the hole in the bottom of the clamshell, is this an issue I should address?
I have a piston coming from lilredbarn, the crank seals look good but I will pressure test before I run it.
(I think the issue for the bad piston was where the carb boot joins the bottom of the handle was not sealing properly. )
Anything else to look out for?

Oil pump gaskets are very hard new so I doubt it is the gasket - your pump is not snug. MAC had several designs to replace the third bolt in the back that was removed over the course of the ten series. Best solution I have found is to drill the case for the third bolt. Alignment is a little tricky. Both Mark and I posted pictures in the past on how we did it. As you would expect Mark’s approach is more precise. This is the only way I found to work on my favorite 800. Burning bar oil is not good for the engine nor for the bar and chain.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

1981 Kawasaki Invader 440. I've had it for 20 years and her name is "Old Reliable".

If it ever dies on you, talk Mark out of one of his MAC BPs to repower it.

Ron

 

[clint53]

I watched the vid. I had a suburban load of saws years ago, quite a few went to folks here, and I rebuilt many and either sold and passed them one to new owners or kept them. Do you plan on selling parts?

Give, sell, trade, etc. But not now. I need to go through every twice or more before I can do anything.

 

[knightmax]

I would enjoy helping you go through that stuff. On a warm day though lol

Here's Debbie, Sam and I loading the McCulloch truckload hoard guys.
I'm working on an unloading vid also.
I'm overwhelmed.
Sam is 87. He is special and comes from a dying breed. Debbie and I are going back to visit him.


Clint

 

[knightmax]

thanks for the help, I haven't worked on this one before, it was given to me by a dear friend who has passed. I finally dug it out and am working on it. (been sitting for 10 years.) the saw was low hours when it seized (his son was using it) so it is in good shape otherwise. I have most of the parts on order, I am waiting till payday for the rest, I think while I have it apart I will do the crank seals.
the piston pin and bearings are good so I will reuse them as you said.

LIke you already were told. DO NOT use the LRB wrist pin.

On the oiler. There is a metal plate that has two small fingers on it that sit in the oiler housing. the plate is flexible and once the oiler is installed the bottom side of the plate.(end nearest bottom of the saw) needs to be pushed to the back of the oil reservoir. The plates are some type spring steel and flexes placing tension on the oiler and sealing it up snug. I have seen MANY 82cc saws with the plate either not having the bottom pressed back to place proper tension on the oilers, or the plate gone period. Either will let bar oil into the crankcase and is not good for the saw. There are those here who can explain it better for you. But I will help you all I can just ask.

 

[gloud]

I just pulled it and the rear plate was loose, The gasket pliable , I cleaned and inspected and used a thin thin wipe of sealant on both sides (gas safe type) and have a nice bow in the spring steel plate. I think it will seal up ok. Just another reason to pressure test.

and I appreciate all the help, I know there are a few things that are different on macs. I am reading up on all I can on them here.

 

[clint53]

I would enjoy helping you go through that stuff. On a warm day though lol

I've already been through it once. I just need to get some rat proof boxes. Jugs in one, gas tanks in one, oil boxes in one, etc.

 

[rarefish383]

It got a Mac View attachment 962520View attachment 962521
View attachment 962522
A few logs for the mill

Nice firewood too.

You Northerners probably call it a cypress of some sort

Last week I went over my farmer friends place to clear six big Ash trees that went over fences. Brough most of the wood home. But cheated, and used my newer Stihls.

 

[rarefish383]

Got iced in this week end so I figured I'd look at a few saws. A have a complete Mac 1-40. I pulled the starter rope and thought I strained my back. Took two hands and a grunt To pull it out and it wont wind back up. If I take the cover off it has a drift pin that holds the recoil on. If I take that pin out will it all come flying apart? My plan is to get a couple cans of brake clean and spray in there and keep working it and see if it frees up, then spray some CRC in there and work it some more. The inside of the cover has a good 1/2" or more of packed saw dust grease. I just want to be warned if it will all fly apart if I'm not careful?

 

[ThistleIA]

Last week I went over my farmer friends place to clear six big Ash trees that went over fences. Brough most of the wood home. But cheated, and used my newer Stihls.

*gasp*

 

[Bg boy]

I solved the problem by reworking another working carburetor, which I reworked. Thanks for the help!

 

[rarefish383]

I've got a Mac 250, the recoil looks identical to the one on the 1-40. It works. Can I swap it over to the 1-40 so I can crank it over and see if it has compression?

 

[rarefish383]

I pulled the Mac 250 down off the top shelf. I didn't want to because that thing is heavy and I have to stand on the top step of a three step ladder to get it. GLAD I did. The 1-40 is in much better shape. The recoil did match up. Then when I pulled it off the 250, 4-5 fins in a row are broken off the 250 flywheel. Put it on the 1-40 and gave a little tug, it has great spark! The pull handle is some later hard plastic piece that is cracked and hurt my hand so bad I couldn't pull the saw over with the comp gauge in it. I wrapped the line around a screw driver handle and with 2 pulls it was over 60 PSI, and with 3 it was right at 90, but it still hurt my hand too bad to pull. Cleaning my shed last week I found a box with several old black rubber pull handles, I'll put one on tomorrow. I bet a dollar to a donut, this thing fires up with a shot of mix in the carb. It has a little stack muffler. I love the sound they make. Looks like the full wrap handle bar from the 250 will swap right over to the 1-40 also. I have a very nice 20" bar with the diagonal yellow tip. I think I'll put that on the saw with no chain. That way I can set the tip on the ground and drop start it. I'm pumped, I think this is going to be an easy fix runner.

 

[rarefish383]

I didn't have a plug for the 1-40, so I pulled the plug out of the 250, it's an ancient Champion H10. I put it on the plug wire and it sparked. The plug I used a while ago to see if it had spark was a little teeny plug from a 150. I put a shot of mix in the carb and on about the 10th pull it fired. But, I'm still breathing hard. Think I'll try it one more time. I know it's beyond hope, but the fuel tank is shiny spotless. Maybe at least I can get a video of it firing tomorrow.

 

[rarefish383]

 

[rarefish383]

Guy told me the saw had been sitting since the 70's-80's. When I saw how clean the tank was I just had a feeling it would run.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

They are pretty robust saws. If they don't have any air leaks, they typically run. They pretty much always have spark (I had one condenser die last week) and (if the carbs aren't full of gunk) they will usually run after a couple of primes.

Rare for a tank on them to be trouble free. I find even the clean looking ones typically have some rot in the bottom. I always split the tanks and clean them up.

 

[heimannm]

gloud -