don't know but the 2nd soak in the solution must have dissolved rust under the logo paint as I lost more of the logo. doesn't bother me much.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Mr. Mark, maybe a little cart before the horse but any leads on a set of decals for my re-paint? 
I looked on ebay to no avail.
I looked on ebay to no avail.The Partner-McCulloch P100 1000 does use a 2piece ignition but you can use a Husky 266 coil on instead. Looks like that’s what had been done with yours. It has a governed carburetor but the governor can be blocked off. I run an eight tooth sprocket on mine with a 32” bar and it does really well in red oak.
thank you Serdie for the info. I haven't counted the teeth on the rim sprocket yet but there is zero wear on it.
I installed the 8 tooth after I disabled the governor on the carb. These saws can be overrevved and they’ll actually throw a rod if not under load. But man will it cut!!
700s are a mean saw for a 20. Not the fastest yet at same time definitely do not feel gutless.
Any mods on that 288? Building 1 up at the moment
yes.
curious if anyone knows what brand this now defunct chain is. has a Z on the cutters.
on the PM1000, the old chain is .404, 107 drive links. drive link thickness mics at .0634" so I assume .063 chain. but the bar groove measures .069 by feeler gauges from wear. that is probably too sloppy. bar squeezer time? ideas?
Invading Russians.
.063 is the limit, time for squeezing.
I have a thin hand saw blade I'm going to try smacking a bar down with a drilling hammer with the .060 blade in the rail. I'll post how it works out.
I came to the same conclusion after looking at .404 chains all over the net. looking forward to your results. the hammer is probably a lot faster than the squeezer.
the PM1000 and P100 service manuals both call for a coil to fly wheel air gap of .014 to .018" (.35 to .45 mm) for the 2-piece ignition. my 1-piece ignition has an air gap of .008" (very tight, close to .007") or .20mm. this seems very extreme.
starting this saw it is ripping the handle out of my hand almost every time. freaking painful. the woodruff key on the crank is not damaged. of course, I haven't rebuilt the carb yet, just dripping fuel mix in the spark plug hole or carb opening. when it starts, I can see fuel being pulled up the tyvek fuel line, but it quickly drops back into the tank and the engine dies. bad carb diaphragms I'm pretty sure. should have a carb kit in a few days.
Its basically stock.I did dual port the muffler,retune the carb a little after that,plus replace the low top air filter with a no longer available NOS high top one with the big pleated air filter in summer 2012,just after it was purchased.
Nice
I managed to score a hi top setup too but ahhh not nos though but perfectly aged to the saw I'm waiting on a piston then time it up and look at my first port job 
. Nothing crazy but get my feet wet. The idea of the 288 is to take a little load off the 82cc Mac's. I love the big 10s but if I want to be able to run them in 20 of 30 years I need to use them enough but not too much. The 288 although old and crusty compared to proper modern stuff seems to tick the box nicely of older build and parts availability.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
scrap the high top, port it and put the v stack on! not a mac, but i haven't worked on one in a while This was a $100 181 low top i picked up a few years ago.
Making Chips , try different square round filed chains , 
Whats the
project on the rotisserie ?
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
69 nova, my dad's project. has new rear quarters and some previous body work repaired. In primer now.
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