Meteor piston circlips

[ZeroJunk]

So you hit the 12/6 o'clock position? Other than that, how do you put one in backwards? Not like there labeled right and left or front and back. Not trying to be a smart fart either. I'm about to learn something...

They are labeled top and bottom, but it is lasered microscopically.
Nah, I was just being silly.

 

[watsonr]

I have lots of experience assembling auto engine, saws are new to me. I have always put the clip in the opposite side from where I want to push the pin in. There's more room to work on the flywheel side so I put the clip in the clutch side first then put the piston and pin on the rod.

And what I do also.

 

[old-cat]

If you install the piston with arrow toward the carb, it's backwards

 

[watsonr]

If you install the piston with arrow toward the carb, it's backwards

Yep... every time! unless there is no arrow... that arrow was put there for me, a small group of dumb guys asked for it, just like the dog eared c-clips.

 

[blsnelling]

Unless the arrow was stamped on backwards. I've actually seen that! Always check the location of your ring ends.

 

[old-cat]

I read here somewhere that the ring locator pins are supposed to be on the carb side.

 

[Jacob J.]

I read here somewhere that the ring locator pins are supposed to be on the carb side.

That's not always the case. There are saws that were designed to have one or both ring locating pins next to the exhaust port.

 

[old-cat]

The more I learn, the less I know:bang:

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Did yours have "double ears", single ear, or no ears?

I've been warned to never ever use the meteor double ear ones, like those that failed in the 346 thread.

I have used the single and no ears with no problems so far.

 

[mp5n]

Thoughts on retaining rings.

I’ve had good luck with the Meteor clips, but use factory clips if I use a Chinese piston.

One of the most important things to keep in mind is how the rings are installed. The Stihl service manuals states to rotate the rings so that the gap is at the top or the bottom. I agree with this and have been installing rings this way for over 25 years without a failure. Even more important than the location of the gap is how they are inserted into the groove. This must be done without damaging the ring by springing it closed or scoring it. I’ve seen a lot of people use wire cutters to get a hold of the ring. If you use wire cutters you stand a very good chance of notching the ring and causing a stress concentration and ultimately a potential fracture.

I use a pair of needle nose pliers with the serrations polished off and a circular notch on one side of the jaws. This notch is also polished. This will allow you to get a hold of the ring without damaging it or allowing it to get away from you. I also grind the outside of the pliers to allow me to get in closer.

The most important step though is to make sure the rings are in the grooves. I will put one side in before putting piston on the rod. I then slip in the pin and install the other ring. I then slide the pin back and forth until it is stopped by the ring. After doing this I always verify the rings are fully seated in the grooves with an eye loupe. It’s a little more work, but I feel it’s worth the time invested.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Well, forget about saw parts failure. How about mechanic fail:bang: Those Meteor clips were like springs on a car STIFFFFFFF! My first try it launched to parts unknown, so I got the next one in, but the wrong side of the piston. When I took it out, it launched. So now I'm going to take the saw to the dealer and let him put the piston on.

Good thing you didn't waste your money on those higher end 99 cent OEM clips!

I'll give anyone 20 OEM clips and 20 AM clips and not hold my breath waiting for anyone to tell me which ones are which...especially if the AM's are Meteors. Why would they take the time to produce some of the best quality AM top ends just to risk their reputation by skimping on what is a half a cent production cost to them per piston or p/c kit? They don't. Can't necessarily say the same for some of the other Asian AM products I've seen.

As for eared or not? My limited experience is that if it's a Meteor kit for a certain top end, the clips are the same type as would be included with an OEM top end for the same saw. No ears on Stihl, single on Husky, etc.

I've tried other AM kits with totally unusable clips for various reasons, mostly zero spring or totally wrong dimension for the gap in the piston. I then break the bank and go with the "tried and true" 99 cent OEM version every time and don't look back, well, unless I have spare Meteor clips just laying around that found their way to the floor of my shop from yours because you couldn't quite get yours installed correctly! (Probably a good thing ya didn't. huh?)

(That was a joke there, old-cat!)

 

[ZeroJunk]

It would be interesting to know for sure, but there is a good chance that the saw manufacturers buy the clips. Possibly from the same suppliers.

 

[H 2 H]

I guess those pistons come with the caber rings, but who actually makes the clips?

I don't know who makes them

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I don't know who makes them

The million dollar question over a fraction of a cent piece of metal that is the heart of a chainsaw...

My inside sources say they're made in China, but tempered in Italy.