Here are some pics of me milling some ash,cherryand box elder on 5-13-07 I cut them 12/4 and remill on my band saw.
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Milling In May in Ky
- Thread starter Stihl-in-Ky
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Here is my friend Jeff and I milling some white oak on 5-21-07
dustytools
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Nice pictures Stihl-in-Ky. Nice pile-o-logs too!
Here is me milling some of the limbs of an ash tree on 5-27-07.I found where the city dumps there tree waste the largest part of the trunk I could find was split in two and was 54" from bark to bark will try tomorrow to mill a small part of that most of it has carpenter ants and rot but some is still good. The widest board in the truck is 15" wide.
OZDOG
ArboristSite Member
cool pics, that's a good effort. keep those pics coming
stihl---now if you could find the city boys--and ask them not to cut in such short pieces----!!!!!!!!!!!! 
woodshop
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Nice haul... don't ya just love free wood when some folks are paying $3-5 bucks a bd ft for it? What size/hp bandsaw are you using to "re-mill" those later? Are you going to let them dry first and then resaw them or resaw first and then sticker and dry? I wouldn't resaw them much less than 1 1/8 inch, especially if they are not 7-8 ft long. The thinner the board, the more it tends to twist as it dries (in general). On the other hand, if you wait till 12/4 is dry through and through, It'll be a while before you can use that wood. I am assuming you are air drying it.
aggiewoodbutchr
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Nice pics!
Woodshop I use a 17'' Grizzly mod.# Go513X with a 2 hp. 220v motor,using 1" blades with 1.3 TPI. The blades are Lennox Woodmasters. I am cutting some down to 4/4 now and leaving part of it 12/4 to mill later.
Here are 2 pics of me milling some of the ash today.My wife came out to watch yesterday and we got ot talking I now have a fair bunch of ash and we are planning to use it to put hardwood floor down in the living room 13x14. We built the house ourselves back in 1985 and thought this would make it even more special to us.
Here are 2 pics of me milling some of the ash today.My wife came out to watch yesterday and we got ot talking I now have a fair bunch of ash and we are planning to use it to put hardwood floor down in the living room 13x14. We built the house ourselves back in 1985 and thought this would make it even more special to us.
aggiewoodbutchr
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Nice resaw. I have a 14" grizzly myself and have been totally pleased with it.
How do you like those Lennox Woodmaster blades? Have you tried the carbide tipped trimasters? They cost quite a bit more but I can gurantee you won't be disapointed. I put on one my bandsaw and the performance is amazing. (I'm not trying to sound like a commercial- they are just really good blades.)
Looks like you have some movement in your cants already. Have you considered temporarily strapping the stack together to prevent this?
How do you like those Lennox Woodmaster blades? Have you tried the carbide tipped trimasters? They cost quite a bit more but I can gurantee you won't be disapointed. I put on one my bandsaw and the performance is amazing. (I'm not trying to sound like a commercial- they are just really good blades.
)Looks like you have some movement in your cants already. Have you considered temporarily strapping the stack together to prevent this?
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woodshop
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yup, I too once spent the bucks on the carbide tipped trimasters, went through 4 of them over a period of time, and like Stihl-in-Ky I used my resaw bandsaw almost as much as a mini sawmill than anything else. They are very expensive though, and for last 5 years I switched back to tossing standard 1 inch 3tpi $20 blades on the saw, and getting pretty good results. They are slower, they wear out much much quicker of course, but they still resaw lumber if you keep enough tension and just have patience when on the saw. For what I do in the shop, after several years I came to the conclusion that unless you have a special job or something only the carbide blades can do, bang for the buck their high price didn't justify them. Of course if I was resawing teak...
Yes I also love the woodmasters and have wondered about the carbide may have to try one.The movment you see is only on the one top board and that happened as I was milling it have not seen much movement so far ,The reason that board is on top is it was already bowed and would fit no where else. No I have not tried strapping them yet how efective is it.
aggiewoodbutchr
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Quite effective. You just need to remember to retighten them every once and a while. Beats removing a ton of weight if you just want to pull one or two boards.
woodshop
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Strapping would seem to be less hassle, but another way I used to do it (still do occasionally because I already have the jig set up) is to use threaded rod and 2x4's. I slip a 2x4 with holes for the rod above and below the stack every 2 ft or so and tighten (screw) them together. As aggie says, you have to tighten them every once in a while (more often in the beginning) because the wood shrinks and they get loose. Works well. 1/4" rod is already overkill for this job, so you don't have to go bigger (thus more expensive).
aggiewoodbutchr
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You mean like this?
I like the way you think.
1/4" is more than enough. I used 1/2" because it was free.
I used valve springs to keep some pressure on the stack between tightenings.
Thanks for the storage tips guys. Now all I need is space to do this in!
woodshop
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You mean like this?
I like the way you think.
1/4" is more than enough. I used 1/2" because it was free.
YEAH MAN... thats what I'm a talkin' 'bout. Only I did't use the valve springs... I actually have some old valve springs from my VW rebuild days. Think they really make it tighter between tightenings? Probly can't hurt huh?
aggiewoodbutchr
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Tighter, no. I completely compress the springs so there are really there just to ensure the stack is never loose.
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