Milling Porch Posts

[Riddler]

I'm an owner/buildler looking to rebuild a wrap around porch, which will be primed and painted in the end. It seems that the ideal post size for the porch is 5"x5" (4"x4" is too skinny and 6"x6" is too fat). I need eight 8' long posts.

One way to get there is to saw and surface larger 6"x6" stock. If so, what is the least expensive species and grade I can use (I am in Northern California) and still be assured decent results (i.e., I would hate to spend a lot of time sawing and surfacing, only to see the posts warp or check as they dry out)?

I have a table saw and planer, but at the moment, no band saw. Would it be acceptable to run each post through the table saw twice (first cut to half depth, then flip the post over to cut the remaining half depth)? Or is a bandsaw the only realistic way to go?

Once I get an inch sawed off on two sides, I am thinking that I can just run each post through the planer and then soften the corners a tad with sandpaper. Am I overlooking anything?

The alternative route is to "build up" 4"x4" stock. Am I likely to get good longevity if I use dry, architectural grade, 1"x6" to skin the posts, and take the time the get the edges tight and suitably caulked? One advantage of the build up approach is that the materials would be considerably less costly than some high grades of 6"x6" (i.e., clear, dry, smooth cedar or redwood 6"x6" typically runs at least $20/ft in my area).

Thanks for helping me figure out the best way to go.

 

[Woodsurfer]

I can comment on the ripping to size. Sure a tablesaw will do the job. I have a cabinet saw, no bandsaw (yet). I have often ripped 6" stock- couple passes to 3", flip it and cut again. In hard maple I do it in two passes, easier on the saw. In cedar, cut 3" in one shot. Cleanup pass through the planer - easy.

I think I saw the famous Norm put together built-up porch columns or something similar, used biscuits, waterproof glue, etc... Can taper them that way too.

 

[Sprig]

I answered this post under another title but would like to comment on "bit 'n' piecing" fancy outdoor work. In warmer climes where moisture is not a major factor this can give you much to play around with with beautiful results. In the wet northern areas we tend to shy away from it, too muchy bugs and rot issues unless you're rich enough to use yellow cedar everywhere and can paint/oil (whatever) frequently. Just another useless 0.02$ worth

 

[Riddler]

Good advice. I am pleased to hear that I can probably use my table saw (which is a good quality unit) to do the rough reduction work. I also had some "wet weather" concerns about the build up approach. In my neck of Northern California, it is not uncommon to see over 40" of rain during the winter and spring.

The last question I have though may be the most important one of all. A completely clear, well dried grade of redwood or red cedar is prohibitively expensive in 6"x6". How much moisture and surface imperfections do you think I can work with and still get decent results? After all, I am going to plane all four sides, and prime and paint the finished product. In other words, if you were going to invest the time and effort to saw, surface and install these posts, what is least expensive grade you would be willing to use?

 

[woodshop]

I am going to plane all four sides, and prime and paint the finished product... if you were going to invest the time and effort to saw, surface and install these posts, what is least expensive grade you would be willing to use?

Matter or personal choice how much you are willing to "dumb down" so to speak, your project. Just know that even with filling in the imperfections and knots, many knots, being much harder than the wood around them, will still show through paint in time as wood swells, shrinks etc with the weather. Knot (pun intended) trying to put a damper on your plans, just telling you like it is so you know what you're up against and what to expect from finished project.

 

[Marc1]

If you have your 6"x6" and they are stright, you can do the job nice an easy with a decent size thicknesser.
If not you will have to strighten them up on the planer (aka jointer) two faces and then on the thicknesser.

One way to make the square post look smaller is to chanfer the corners. On a 6x6 you can make a nice chanfer 3/4" wide with the electric planer or a large reuter and your 6x6 will suddenly look more like a 5x5. Try on a piece of scrap. If you stop the chanfer some 6" from the top and the bottom it will look even better.
If you are going to paint the lot, the colour you choose will aslo make things look different size. Dark colours smaller light colours bigger.

On way to get around the dilemma of 4" too small 6" too big, is to use two 4"x4" next to each other separated by 3".
I like that approach much more, particularly if you add some fret work at the top of the post.