MS 026

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StihlKicking

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jan 15, 2016
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Location
Hatchie Bottom, MS
I cut a tree for a friend yesterday
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I didn't expect or ask for any payment, it was just a favor for a friend. After I got done with the work he fed me a steak and wouldn't let me leave until I took this saw with me
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I got home tonight and tinkered with it until I got it to fire up. The saw will crank and die after idling for a few seconds it will run like a raped ape with the throttle held wide open even under a load but the saw will not idle. I'm thinking a carb adjustment, carb kit or a new carb is in order. I am mechanically inclined but have never had to work on my saws to any great extent. Any advice, help or suggestions from you guys who are pros would be greatly appreciated. I would like to get this little saw going. Thanks, Jones


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Pull muffler and check cylinder. If thats good id start with carb kit and fuel impulse line wouldnt hurt either for the oldsaw
 
Pulled the muffler this morning and the piston looks good
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I've adjusted it till I'm blue in the face and this is as good as I have gotten

It will idle to some extent and open up but when I release the throttle it dies any suggestions? Thanks


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Personally if you want to keep the saw, I would replace all the "rubber" parts(crank seals, fuel lines, carb membranes, etc.) and only buy stihl stuff. The price is usually only minor increase compared to aftermarket but well worth the quality.

7
 
Don't run it long without the top cover. That directs the air flow over the cylinder fins. If it was mine, I would get some carburetor cleaner. Use the long spout to spray into the high and low speed holes after removing the needles. Replace them to 1 and 1/4 turn for initial starting point. Crank it up to high and spray some into the carb. If that fixes it then clean it up good and use it.
Carburetor kits are good if you can't get high speed because the diaphrams are what you replace, and it seems they are pumping plenty of mix. Like some said, low speed could be an air leak but maybe just the low circuit in the carb. Mike
 
Thanks for all the help and advice. Unfortunately I fried the piston yesterday running the saw while trying to adjust the carb. This is what the piston looks like now.
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I have a new piston and cylinder in the mail. I also pulled the oil seals while I had the saw tore down as I suspect a vacuum leak is what caused the saw to run lean enough to fry it. The boot and impulse line look good.


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Actually I was expecting it to happen. I am quite astonished how someone can assume the carb membranes are at fault for irratic high rpm. As mentioned by me above, I would replace on a twenty year old saw all rubber parts, if you intend to keep it. Price for the Stihl "rubber parts" would be around 50 - 80 $.

Well sorry for your loss and good luck next time!

7
 
A vac leak will cause the saw to idle too high, not fail to idle at all.
Actually, even though I agree in theory, I could not get an 026 to idle for any reasonable amount of time with a flywheel side seal leak. It would idle with the idle richened, then eventually stall no matter what I did. I vac tested, replaced seal, and all was well.

I'm surprised you roasted the piston that fast. It's not like you were doing extended cuts with the saw. You must have made it scream, a lot.

What kind of P&C do you have on the way???
 
Actually, even though I agree in theory, I could not get an 026 to idle for any reasonable amount of time with a flywheel side seal leak. It would idle with the idle richened, then eventually stall no matter what I did. I vac tested, replaced seal, and all was well.

I'm surprised you roasted the piston that fast. It's not like you were doing extended cuts with the saw. You must have made it scream, a lot.

What kind of P&C do you have on the way???

44.7 mm from north wood saw


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