MS 880 Given to Me

[Kodiak Kid]

Okay, so now that you guys have seen the cylinder and the piston, what do you think about sanding the cylinder and reusing the cylinder with a new piston and rings?

If you think I should sand this out, what grit do you find appropriate to start with, and then finish with?

I do have a new cylinder, but it is not OEM (chrome plated bore) and a new piston (also non-OEM). The new cylinder has provisions for a bolt on muffler, but I have the cast aluminum one that clips on.

So, what say you?

Is there any body you know that has a honer you could borrow, or someone you could take it to for honing? That's what I'd do but I'm no expert saw mechanic by any means!

 

[PP4218]

It's an expensive saw... And you got the saw for free and you don't want to spend any money on it and you are completely happy to do a dodgy rebuild on... why even bother?
My advice Put In a box and sell it on.
The next guy will enjoy and take pride in his work rebuilding it correctly value adding to the saw using OEM parts.
Just saying...

Please explain what you would do different in this situation. I don't understand your comments as I intend to reuse the existing cylinder if possible, which is OEM.

As far as the piston is concerned, what is the difference between OEM, Meteor, Hyway, etc.? The OEM failed and the other pistons seem to be more robust and better designed to take higher rpm.

If you have information that supports using OEM over aftermarket (any quantitative proof will do), then please provide it and I will review your information. I am happy to change if the change can be proven to be worthwhile.

Spending money for OEM just because it's OEM isn't a viable option if better options are available.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Please explain what you would do different in this situation. I don't understand your comments as I intend to reuse the existing cylinder if possible.

I think he's saying don't half a** the rebuild and get a new jug! It's an expensive power head!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

But my honest opinion is that scored up jug is a poor ol dud! Use a new cylinder!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I'd try to clean up the cyl first. If any scoring catches a denial pick replace it. That piston is toast.
Often you can find good OE cylinders online so do some searching. OE piston replacement is certainly in order for this saw.

 

[trains]

Dont hone the cyld, its nikasil plated, just remove the transfer, and if its scored the cyld so bad, that its gone thru the nikasil, get a new jug.

Personally, with a saw like that I would not bother with after market stuff, if you can just put a new piston set in it, then go genuine.
As far as port timing and cyld finish on a chinga aftermarket cyld, I just wouldnt go that way myself due to lack of quality/ poor numbers and finish.
I dont know where you get the idea that after market is more robust and better designed ? over the original ?

Its your saw, do what you want, but we have offered some good suggestions for good reasons, I guess its up to you what you do with the good advice given to you.

 

[PP4218]

Thank you guys for the opinions! I’m just trying to find definitive proof that OEM is better. I used to work for an OEM as an engineer and we designed to meet price and performance standards that met our warranty requirements. Once past warranty we had no further liability.

Since this OEM piston failed in use outside of warranty I don’t follow the desire to go back to the same design failure mode.

Regardless,I am open to proof OEM is best. We all have opinions. Proof matters most to me.

I don’t like rework and will use OEM in the absence of fact as it is baseline. I just thought some here might have proof/experience that was more definitive.

I was hoping to hear from some who have this model saw and made changes that helped with longevity.

 

[PP4218]

For instance:

https://www.lilredbarn.net/Stihl-MS-880-Piston-Cylinder-Kits-s/59194.htm
Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Price point advantage.

Anyone use these?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thank you guys for the opinions! I’m just trying to find definitive proof that OEM is better. I used to work for an OEM as an engineer and we designed to meet price and performance standards that met our warranty requirements. Once past warranty we had no further liability.

Since this OEM piston failed in use outside of warranty I don’t follow the desire to go back to the same design failure mode.

Regardless,I am open to proof OEM is best. We all have opinions. Proof matters most to me.

I don’t like rework and will use OEM in the absence of fact as it is baseline. I just thought some here might have proof/experience that was more definitive.

I was hoping to hear from some who have this model saw and made changes that helped with longevity.

That piston, cylinder, inside clutch covers and god knows what else- did not fry up just because the saw had passed warranty age and the build quality/materials were inferior!
It fried and died either because someone goofed up the fuel mix, goofed up the tuning, or goofed up by continuing to run a saw where something was not right- like a massive air leak.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

For instance:

https://www.lilredbarn.net/Stihl-MS-880-Piston-Cylinder-Kits-s/59194.htm
Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Price point advantage.

Anyone use these?

No experience with LRB stuff. The Hyway pop-up kit I just got for a 261 is nice but I still had to clean up some casting spots in both intake and exhaust. Saw runs great. I have used Meteor in the past…equally good, maybe better but they are hard to find now.. I do have a 261 that was given to me that has what is obviously a cheap, eBay, Chinese P/C kit and it really shows. It runs…but not that well. Compression difference: 170, cheap vs 190, Hyway.
That said…what you have is a $1500+ saw…whole different animal. The difference in a top quality OE pist/cyl is well offset. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives but they are cheap for a good reason.
if all you are looking to do is get it running for personal use then the higher end aftermarket kits will be fine. Meteor and Hyway seem to be in that group…there may be others. If the difference, however, is under $200 don’t even bother with aftermarket, IMO.
OE tends to have a lot fewer casting issues and also tends to have more “meat”. Saw builders won’t attempt full porting on aftermarket cylinders for a good reason .

 

[BrettS]

It's an expensive saw... And you got the saw for free and you don't want to spend any money on it and you are completely happy to do a dodgy rebuild on... why even bother?
My advice Put In a box and sell it on.
The next guy will enjoy and take pride in his work rebuilding it correctly value adding to the saw using OEM parts.
Just saying...

Geez louise the guy was asking for advice, not judgement. Next time engage brain before mouth eh.....

 

[BrettS]

No experience with LRB stuff. The Hyland pop-up kit I just got for a 261 is nice but I still had to clean up some casting spots in both intake and exhaust. Saw runs great. I have used Meteor in the past…equally good, maybe better but they are hard to find now.. I do have a 261 that was given to me that has what is obviously a cheap, eBay, Chinese P/C kit and it really shows. It runs…but not that well. Compression difference: 170, cheap vs 190, Hyland.
That said…what you have is a $1500+ saw…whole different animal. The difference in a top quality OE pist/cyl is well offset. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives but they are cheap for a good reason.
if all you are looking to do is get it running for personal use then the higher end aftermarket kits will be fine. Meteor and Hyland seem to be in that group…there may be others. If the difference, however, is under $200 don’t even bother with aftermarket, IMO.
OE tens to have a lot fewer casting issues and also tends to have more “meat”. Saw builders won’t attempt full porting on aftermarket cylinders for a good reason .

Finally someone who gives good advice and doesn't judge a guy for asking questions...

 

[BrettS]

What do you guys think of this cylinder scoring?

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Throw the piston away and buy a new one, either OEM or Meteor they are pretty much the same.
The cyl looks like it can be saved, I cleaned up worse when I used to work in the shop and now in my own shop. If you can catch your fingernail or a pick in the score lines after you have cleaned up the cylinder then it maybe toast, there are some good cyl cleanup video's on youtube. If the cyl proves unusable then Meteor cyl's have a good name, or get a OEM cyl if you can stomach the price.
( but what do I know, I am as dumb as rocks according to some of the precious 'experts' on here)...

 

[rogue60]

Geez louise the guy was asking for advice, not judgement. Next time engage brain before mouth eh.....

Calm down princess quiet the drama queen ain't we lol
I gave solid advice if you find/found that offensive that's on you and just a reflection of how thin skinned you are.
Maybe engage the rational side of ya brain before letting ya emotions run wild next time precious.

 

[BrettS]

Calm down princess quiet the drama queen ain't we lol
I gave solid advice if you find/found that offensive that's on you and just a reflection of how thin skinned you are.
Maybe engage the rational side of ya brain before letting ya emotions run wild next time precious.

1, I ain't no drama queen
2, I didn't find it 'offensive'
3, I ain't 'thin skinned'
4, You ain't rational but judgmental
5, Once again engage ya brain before ya mouth when you assume stuff eh.....

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

That cylnder could be salvaged from what it looks like to me? My 10mm slant fin 044 was much worse looking than that.
I started with 100 grit to break the glaze and the aluminum smear of the piston then moved to red and green scotch brite pads to remove the finer aluminum transfer. Never hone a coated cylinder!
My pro mac 800 has a chip of plating missing from the cylinder and it runs very well.
It can be alot of hand work to straighten out a cylinder but in the case of some saws there's no other option, at least you can really get your fingers in a cylinder that big.
OEM pistons are very well made in my experience with Meteor being a very close second ( I used one in my 044) . With a saw of this caliber I'd steer clear of other brands, but I have used just about every other kind of piston out there with success. Just keep in mind that quality rings make a big difference as they are whats in contact with your cylinder.
Anyone can throw parts at a problem, but you should at least attempt to clean up the original cylinder and gain some experience as a learning lesson. You never know how it could benefit you in the future.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

That cylnder could be salvaged from what it looks like to me? My 10mm slant fin 044 was much worse looking than that.
I started with 100 grit to break the glaze and the aluminum smear of the piston then moved to red and green scotch brite pads to remove the finer aluminum transfer. Never hone a coated cylinder!
My pro mac 800 has a chip of plating missing from the cylinder and it runs very well.
It can be alot of hand work to straighten out a cylinder but in the case of some saws there's no other option, at least you can really get your fingers in a cylinder that big.
OEM pistons are very well made in my experience with Meteor being a very close second ( I used one in my 044) . With a saw of this caliber I'd steer clear of other brands, but I have used just about every other kind of piston out there with success. Just keep in mind that quality rings make a big difference as they are whats in contact with your cylinder.
Anyone can throw parts at a problem, but you should at least attempt to clean up the original cylinder and gain some experience as a learning lesson. You never know how it could benefit you in the future.

Now that is solid info and sound advice in my opinion! Good on ya MS

 

[PP4218]

I think he's saying don't half a** the rebuild and get a new jug! It's an expensive power head!

I didn't get that from his comments.

What I got from his remarks was a "single lane" approach that was do it my way or you are stupid.

In my profession that type of "thinking" usually leads to a lack of innovation and lackluster performance.

If I wanted to do what he suggested, I wouldn't come here to ask for advice now would I?

I was hoping to get thoughtful answers (and I have gotten some, thank you to those guys!), but his answer was neither thoughtful or useful.

Just saying....

 

[PP4218]

That cylnder could be salvaged from what it looks like to me? My 10mm slant fin 044 was much worse looking than that.
I started with 100 grit to break the glaze and the aluminum smear of the piston then moved to red and green scotch brite pads to remove the finer aluminum transfer. Never hone a coated cylinder!
My pro mac 800 has a chip of plating missing from the cylinder and it runs very well.
It can be alot of hand work to straighten out a cylinder but in the case of some saws there's no other option, at least you can really get your fingers in a cylinder that big.
OEM pistons are very well made in my experience with Meteor being a very close second ( I used one in my 044) . With a saw of this caliber I'd steer clear of other brands, but I have used just about every other kind of piston out there with success. Just keep in mind that quality rings make a big difference as they are whats in contact with your cylinder.
Anyone can throw parts at a problem, but you should at least attempt to clean up the original cylinder and gain some experience as a learning lesson. You never know how it could benefit you in the future.

Thank you for this! I will start on the OEM cylinder today following your lead. I hope to be able to use the OEM cylinder as it has the clip on muffler, and for me that's cool engineering. Might not work the best, but I like the design and it shows critical thinking to solve a problem.

 

[PP4218]

Does anyone know the exact differences between the 1124 141 2202 Manifold and the 1124 141 2201 Manifold for this saw and if these are interchangeable?