MS200T scored piston

[ckliff]

Service tech @ Stihl dealer found scored piston on my poorly running 200T.

Most likely diagnosis...too lean fuel/oil mix? I had been using whatever oil I found wherever I happened to be, but will now use only Stihl oil. Also, after reading in here will switch to syn.

I don't want to start another mix thread, here is my real question:
Is it possible to repair the piston/cylinder on the ms200 w/o actually buying the new parts? I did get a new saw, and hopefully will treat it right..., but for now the old one is for parts only unless it can be fixed up cheaper.

 

[Woodsrover]

Sounds like you need a jug and piston to me.

If it's not worth it for you to fix it, would you consider selling it as-is?

Jim

 

[bcorradi]

You may be able to get by with just honing the cylinder and putting in a new oem piston and rings. With a service manual and help from this site you should be able to tackle the project yourself. The MS200t isn't the easiest stihl model to work on, but its nothing too complicated either.

 

[charlieh]

My local dealer recently wrote of my 020T as being un worthy of repair without taking it to pieces (wanted £200 to fix it), I have stripped it down and honed the cylinder (cylinder hone cost me £5 = $10) and i have a new piston and rings on order for £45 ($90) having done nothing of this sort before its actually not that hard to do, and i didnt find the 020T to hard to work on. (you just need to be very methodical in taking it to peices)

I actually did most the work before i got the manual, but there are loads of people on here who can give you the link to it, if you dont have it PM me and i will send it to you. hopefully next week it'll be running again


Charlie

 

[charlieh]

sorry i should also point out that a new ms200t in the UK is about £470 so about $940us. so paying out for a new piston and honing the cylinder if its not to bad make for a much better deal than buying new if the rest of the saw is fine

 

[Lakeside53]

Assuming you don't have a tear in the intake boot, a seal leak or a bad impulse hose, in addition to your possible poor oil/mix, a carb adjusted too lean on the H end will do the same thing.


As the others have pointed out, at a minimum you need a new piston/rings.

You need a copy of the service manual before you start.

 

[ckliff]

Thanks for all the replies! I'll be getting with a friend who dabbles in small engine repair, get the manual, and gradually get going on this.

 

[ckliff]

would you consider selling it as-is?

Jim

Doubt it. Will see if I get it running again or bust it up worse.

 

[matty f]

If your using it every day personally id rather get a new one and keep the other for spares...they never seem to run right evan after a dealer has done the repairs and at heights the last thing you want is a saw thats playin up.
Ive found the best way to keep them from major head and piston work is change the metal basket pre filter in the carb every 6 months so they dont run lean.

 

[buck futter]

Heres what you do

You have a new saw to work with so tear the saw down and see if the cylinder can clean up if yes pop a new piston in. If no then you already have it torn down to part out on ebay.

Buck

 

[pgg]

OK, the 'tech' may have spotted a score mark or two on the piston, but is that actually the cause of the bad running? It may only be something relatively minor. The top end on those 200's is damn near indestructible, even leaned out, any rattles coming from the motor? All the knackered 200's I've seen had crank bearing and/or crank seal wear, rather than piston wear, but yeah, if the saw is generally worn and rattly, lacking compression/power it's a decision, either a recondition, piston, rings, bore, bearings(expensive if you don't do it yourself, but still expensive enough just for parts) or a whole new saw(still expensive )

 

[Lakeside53]

When I see them worn out, it's usually the piston skirt (real poor idle stability) and rings. On my gauge, at 135 they are dogs, at 125-130, they really suck! Accelerator pump (big lag on accelaration, or, other weird "lean out" etc carb problems) wears on the ZAMA carb - means new carb as the body wears out and tears the o-rings. The -61F seems o.k. - the prior 5 versions suck.