MS361+32" bar=?

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Saw is Pre-Owned and looks to have moderate cosmetic wear and marks from normal use and storage. Saw has been tested (powered up, no load) and works.

If I may?

This is like the horse at the action, auctioneer says

Why you can ask that horse for any one of it's hoof and it will let you have it!

Powered up, no-load and works is a very good chance the 32" bar was not a very good idea here?
 
Buy it change the clutch and put an 18" bar in it. Then sell the 32". The price is getting very close to a new saw though. Not much of a deal at this point.
 
It MIGHT work if they were cutting Willow, or balsa wood but I agree that clutch has to be shot.

Willow? No forking way. Willow is really tough wood to cut.

Actually with full skip that thing would do OK in pine or fir. But it would be slow. I see 28" bars on 361s here a lot. I run a 25" bar on my 361 and that is about as long as I would want to go. A 32" is really pushing it.

It would be interesting to see the clutch. But I do not buy chainsaws on Ebay any more, and I do not recommend it.
 
Geez

What is with people putting such huge bars on little saws? I don't get it... What gives eh? Why not just get the right saw for the job? Why overwork and shorten the life of bearings and clutches and everything else on the saw??? Eh, whatcha gonna do eh?

:popcorn:

I wouldn't care if a 361 is woodsported and modded. Something that small shouldn't ever wear a 32 dude... Poor little 361... boohoooo :cry:
 
Its a west coast thing. Long bar disease is pervasive here. But most tree cutting here is on softwood tree species like firs, hemlock and pines. Also with full skip chain you are pulling 2/3 the cutters, so the equivalent drag on the saw is not that bad. 2/3 * 32 = about 20 inch bar equivalent, more or less. A 20 inch bar on a 361 is a breeze.

But yes, I know that a 460 would be a better saw for that size bar. Or even a 660. If you are not lugging or bogging the saw down though, and taking it slow, letting the saw eat the wood and not levering the crap out of it, it is not going to overheat the clutch, or damage the engine. One advantage I have found when using the 25 inch bar is that there are more cutters, and they get dull slower than using a shorter bar. A saw with a sharper chain is going to run better over time.

So it is not all long bar insanity and saw breaking. There are reasons for using these size bars here (big diameter softwood trees here, mainly).
 
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That saw is 4.4hp correct? Seems like even with a 32" bar, like Windthrown said, with skip chain you're reducing the drag from cutting teeth by nearly 1/3. Change the sprocket to slow down the chain speed, and it's probably not too hard on the saw... If such a setup would save me from buying another $800 saw, then I'd probably do it too... But then again, what do I know?
 
So it is not all long bar insanity and saw breaking. There are reasons for using these size bars here (big diameter softwood trees here, mainly).

Don't forget not having to bend over all day when limbing :)

long bars = easier on the lower back
 
Buy it change the clutch and put an 18" bar in it. Then sell the 32". The price is getting very close to a new saw though. Not much of a deal at this point.

Some people don't like smaller bars. Thats my guess. We run 28's on our 361's here at work. Work just fine. Thats including Mardone and White Oak. Green and seasoned. Sure. Chain speed is a great thing. Makes the cut faster. Some people prefer to take their time. Its all on what the user likes.
 
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