MS361 help needed please .....

[kspakland]

I never could understand why Stihl had to build and market so many different saws, when they could completely cover the marketplace and its user's requirements with maybe a half dozen ..........
Plus, some of their saw designs were done by total idiots, the MS250 air filter design is but one example.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I never could understand why Stihl had to build and market so many different saws, when they could completely cover the marketplace and its user's requirements with maybe a half dozen ..........
Plus, some of their saw designs were done by total idiots, the MS250 air filter design is but one example.

Agreed. The MS 441 CM-tronic is yet another example. Windthrown and I are on the same page with this model and have been for many others for years. When I started working on its restoration, I said to myself, "Is this really a Stihl chainsaw?" There was little evidence of that. Even the Service Manual was poorly written with lousy documentation.

Three cheers for the MS 361!

 

[windthrown]

I never could understand why Stihl had to build and market so many different saws, when they could completely cover the marketplace and its user's requirements with maybe a half dozen ..........
Plus, some of their saw designs were done by total idiots, the MS250 air filter design is but one example.

Well, a lot of that was because of the EPA. And the EPA was because greedy John Deere had a patent on a cleaner burning 2 stroke engine, and got congress to pass strict smog laws. Also in the EU, they passed strict anti-vibration laws. So Stihl and Husky were FORCED to design newer saws. Otherwise we would still have 260, 360 and 440, and 346 and 372 saws being built today. And in actuality, the 361 is still being made in Brazil.

The entire 1123 line of saws are also a PITA to work on. I sold off my collection of 025, 023 and 250 saws and gave my 210 saw to my ex. I replaced them with 026 and 260 saws. I never looked back. I like my little 211 saw though. Way better than the 210 ever was.

 

[kspakland]

I managed to get the roll pin out, and backed off the adjusting screw far enough for the piston to travel.
I cleaned the pump with carb cleaner and a straw, noticed the flow seems to only go one way (hope that's normal).
Now, I have a glitch, while holding the piston/gear shaft back against the spring, I try to push the adjuster back in, but it won't go as far as it was before I removed it, and looking through the roll pin hole, there is some form of obstruction preventing the hole from being open all the way to reinsert the pin.
Any ideas?
I don't want to pound on it with a sledge hammer and hope it goes.
I was using a very small brass hammer and not applying too much force on it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Kev, I think it may be time to spend about $15 and buy a new oil pump. Just MHO.

 

[kspakland]

Edwin, if it's only 15 bucks I can handle that.
When I ordered the other parts I needed and asked the Stihl dealer about the 440 pump in case the decision was made to mod the saw, they quoted me $175.
Maybe there's a sweet spot I need to hold the pump gear in for the adjuster to seat properly ......
Thanks, Kev

 

[Wood Doctor]

You can get that part on E-bay from a US supplier for $15. Yes, it might be made in China. What isn't these days?

 

[kspakland]

Probably just as well, every Stihl dealer around here is arrogant and greedy and I HATE dealing with people like that.

 

[SteveSr]

I managed to get the roll pin out, and backed off the adjusting screw far enough for the piston to travel.
I cleaned the pump with carb cleaner and a straw, noticed the flow seems to only go one way (hope that's normal).
Now, I have a glitch, while holding the piston/gear shaft back against the spring, I try to push the adjuster back in, but it won't go as far as it was before I removed it, and looking through the roll pin hole, there is some form of obstruction preventing the hole from being open all the way to reinsert the pin.
Any ideas?
I don't want to pound on it with a sledge hammer and hope it goes.
I was using a very small brass hammer and not applying too much force on it.

If you are holding the piston far enough over the adjusting screw should go back down to where it began. If you have a large pair of channel locks this may help persuade it. The only thing that is holding the adjusting screw is well a formed o-ring. I wouldn't use any hammers on it just an improvised press that you can control. What comes apart WILL go back together!

 

[drf255]

Buy a used 046/460 pump here and don’t look back.

361 pumps are generally available used, as most ported saws add the 460 pump.

If you really want a 361 pump, PM me and we can make a deal.

As for your current pump, tap the roll pin out some more. I can’t fully understand your post, but for disassembly, the entire adjustment pin should be out, not left in place. Then you should be able to slide piston assembly in, apply some pressure to it, and reinsert the adjustment pin/control. There is a limiting tab for the pin on the case of the pump, sure you’re not hitting it?

 

[SteveSr]

Buy a used 046/460 pump here and don’t look back.

361 pumps are generally available used, as most ported saws add the 460 pump.

If you really want a 361 pump, PM me and we can make a deal.

As for your current pump, tap the roll pin out some more. I can’t fully understand your post, but for disassembly, the entire adjustment pin should be out, not left in place. Then you should be able to slide piston assembly in, apply some pressure to it, and reinsert the adjustment pin/control. There is a limiting tab for the pin on the case of the pump, sure you’re not hitting it?

Although this will work I am always apprehensive of disturbing the old and non-available rubber o-ring on the adjustment shaft. You shouldn't have to pull the adjustment shaft all the way out to get the piston back far enough to flush out the pump. As well as holding the piston all the way over it might also help to put the adjustment screw in the "max" oil position and make sure it is not hitting the stop ridge on the pump body.

It can take 3 or 4 hands to hold everything in the proper position if you have a bench vice you might try holding the pump between 2 wood blocks and then just push the adjustment screw back down with a straight blade screwdriver... Just make sure that you are holding your tongue in the proper orientation. That part is CRITICAL!

 

[kspakland]

I did manage to remove the roll pin completely, backed out the adjustment screw about 1/8" and was able to move the piston.
Since it's fighting me going back together, I ordered a pump and worm gear drive thingy set online, both new parts.
Not gonna mess with the old pump any more.