Ms460

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You didn't sound condescending at all, I was just curious about your comment.

flashhole is the name I also use on the shooting forums. I carried it over to this forum so as not to have to create a new name and password. The flash hole is between the primer and main powder column in the case. It allows the flash of the primer to ignite the powder.

I wasn't sure if you were referring to the flint-lock origins or the metallic casing passage. I've been reloading center-fire longer than I've been shooting it, slowly, on an old Rock Chucker Supreme... Which reminds me, that I need to check to see if my .357 and .452 molds have come in yet... Cheers!
 
Another caster here. 230gr lead round nose for the Kimbers.

Anywho, back to the topic. I've noticed when running my 460 that it only needs to be run at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Any more throttle and it doesn't seem to improve cutting speed in the smaller stuff. When burying the bar it needs the extra throttle room.

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it allows you to run a longer bar so you work the saw less (less teeth cutting per revolution) a 36 full skip will have roughly the same number of cutters as a 20 full comp. they can be a tad slower but if you are cutting 60" wood things slow down anyway. ive found the square ground stihl skip chisel chain on my 660 with a 36" to be almost as fast as full comp on my 036 20" bar
 
A fellow caster ... I cast 40 S&W and 45-70.

I intend to eventually have .355 (although I don't own a 9 right now), .357, .401, .429, .452 and .454 covered. I'd like a Keith profile in the revolver calibers and a decent TNC or RNFP for the autos... I really like the .40 and .44, but LOVE the .45's (LC and ACP) and .38/.357... I would love to have a .45-70 someday in either a strong lever of some sort or a a Ruger No 1!
 
Another caster here. 230gr lead round nose for the Kimbers.

Anywho, back to the topic. I've noticed when running my 460 that it only needs to be run at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Any more throttle and it doesn't seem to improve cutting speed in the smaller stuff. When burying the bar it needs the extra throttle room.

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It seems like the bigger the saw, the less the revs. You have to look at it in a relative viewpoint, in that the difference between 3/4 and W.O.T. on a 460 is a bit less than a 440/1 or 372. Knowing that the last bit of throttle is there simply to push you over the top. A 3/8" cutter removes the same amount of material each pass regardless whether it's on a 261 or an 880. The speed for which it cuts is a direct result of the speed for which it passes through the cut. Knowing that, the only way to cut faster when load isn't a real factor on dragging down engine rpm, is to use a larger drive sprocket and propel the chain faster. This is why I liked an 8-pin on my old 660 for 28" bars and less and then dropped to a 7-pin for over 28" as then the load caught up to the engine's capacity, and more specifically the oiler's capacity to lube the bar.

What is the benefit of a full skip chain besides less teeth to sharpen
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It also allows for smoother chip evacuation and less drag as you don't have a full compliment of 2.5'+ of chain trying to drag chips out while simultaneously trying to get a clean bite in the wood. Think of the teeth like a hand chisel. No matter how long the shank of the chisel is, the cutting edge is the same size and is going to be taking a relatively small bite. You still have to clean the chips out, to get a clean, fresh bite if you want good results, without prematurely dulling the chisel. No reason to go off half-cocked...
 
It seems like the bigger the saw, the less the revs. You have to look at it in a relative viewpoint, in that the difference between 3/4 and W.O.T. on a 460 is a bit less than a 440/1 or 372. Knowing that the last bit of throttle is there simply to push you over the top. A 3/8" cutter removes the same amount of material each pass regardless whether it's on a 261 or an 880. The speed for which it cuts is a direct result of the speed for which it passes through the cut. Knowing that, the only way to cut faster when load isn't a real factor on dragging down engine rpm, is to use a larger drive sprocket and propel the chain faster. This is why I liked an 8-pin on my old 660 for 28" bars and less and then dropped to a 7-pin for over 28" as then the load caught up to the engine's capacity, and more specifically the oiler's capacity to lube the bar.

Looks like I'll be ordering an 8-pin for the 460 then. :)
 
With a 24" bar you'll likely not find a better compromise between weight/power/capacity/speed in decent sized firewood. I thought when I had my old 660 that it would only be used for the times when I wanted my 36" bar. Eventually someone educated me and I picked up a 25" bar and an 8-pin rim. It was a dream through 20-28" Oak, Locust and Hedge logs as where my 039 was a solid saw and ran very well, where it topped out, the 660 was just getting warmed up. For reference, my arsenal at the time was a Husky 55 and 336xp and then a Stihl 039 and 660 with bars from 16"-36". There wasn't much I couldn't tackle from a firewood/storm cleanup point of view. I really like my 372 as it's pretty high-strung and has instant throttle response. Having said that I operate saws from 2 different view-points ( I promise I'm not Bi-polar)... For limbing I want a light, fast, responsive saw that handles well and isn't a hindrance. When cutting 20" plus, I like having more displacement than I need, so as not to over-tax the saw.

The 350/5.3, 302/351/5.4 and 318/360/Hemi V-8's are all great general-duty truck engines which could be worked decently beyond their original design intentions. However, strap a good sized trailer w/a load of hedge and that's where the 454/6.0/8.1, 460/6.8 V-10 and 8.0v10 gas engine and corresponding diesels (according to maker) really shined. You didn't need them all the time, but when it was time to get the job done, displacement is a nice thing. I think you'll be happy with your purchase. Just remember that the larger drive cog, requires a few extra links of chain (when brand-new and un-stretched) to fit properly as there's a small but noticeable size difference.

Good Luck!!!
 
With a 24" bar you'll likely not find a better compromise between weight/power/capacity/speed in decent sized firewood. I thought when I had my old 660 that it would only be used for the times when I wanted my 36" bar. Eventually someone educated me and I picked up a 25" bar and an 8-pin rim. It was a dream through 20-28" Oak, Locust and Hedge logs as where my 039 was a solid saw and ran very well, where it topped out, the 660 was just getting warmed up. For reference, my arsenal at the time was a Husky 55 and 336xp and then a Stihl 039 and 660 with bars from 16"-36". There wasn't much I couldn't tackle from a firewood/storm cleanup point of view. I really like my 372 as it's pretty high-strung and has instant throttle response. Having said that I operate saws from 2 different view-points ( I promise I'm not Bi-polar)... For limbing I want a light, fast, responsive saw that handles well and isn't a hindrance. When cutting 20" plus, I like having more displacement than I need, so as not to over-tax the saw.

The 350/5.3, 302/351/5.4 and 318/360/Hemi V-8's are all great general-duty truck engines which could be worked decently beyond their original design intentions. However, strap a good sized trailer w/a load of hedge and that's where the 454/6.0/8.1, 460/6.8 V-10 and 8.0v10 gas engine and corresponding diesels (according to maker) really shined. You didn't need them all the time, but when it was time to get the job done, displacement is a nice thing. I think you'll be happy with your purchase. Just remember that the larger drive cog, requires a few extra links of chain (when brand-new and un-stretched) to fit properly as there's a small but noticeable size difference.

Good Luck!!!

^^^^^^ In other words, there is no replacement for displacement ;)

LV, it's in Knoxville- Come On Thursday-
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"100% of Home Invasions Occur in a Home" - Sharpsburg
 
This is hard for me to admit, but I own a 460... :dizzy:

7 pin only for me...
It'll run an 8, but the only reason I'd use one is if I were relegated to running off the roll chain and couldn't make the changes needed to make the saw self feed in the right rpm range...
Chain is where the rubber meets the road... Tweaks to it, are where all the real gains are at for your saw...
Use what you have / make the chain suit your machine's needs...:chop:
 
A great chain on a stock saw can beat a ported saw with a crap chain every time. I run 7 pins on almost everything as its more forgiving and easier on the clutches.
BINGO!!!

And you need to get that ugly thing off your bench...
Want me to send you another dolmar for an avatar?
;)
 
Took down a little oak this morning with the ms460. It had a few poison ivy vines on it and barb wire in it which I found after I hit it.


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I have a huge oak piece that I started bucking with a brand new chain. I got 1/2 way through the first cut and hit something hard. Turned my brand new chain into garbage just like that!
 

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