The Diesel
ArboristSite Lurker
I saw the thread on bsnelling muffler moding the 193t. I just bought one and want to muffler mod when the warranty is up in 3 months. Can I just mod the muffler or do I have to advance timing and adjust carburetor?
Muffler mod 193t
- Thread starter The Diesel
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Seedling345
ArboristSite Operative
You don't have to advance the timing but it's an option will for sure need to retune carb if it's not mtronic
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Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
Check this out:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ms-193t-muffler-part-number.287932/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ms-193t-muffler-part-number.287932/
Just ask your Stihl dealer to order that part number there, and you don't have to worry about metal shavings working their way back to the piston.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ms-193t-muffler-part-number.287932/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ms-193t-muffler-part-number.287932/
Just ask your Stihl dealer to order that part number there, and you don't have to worry about metal shavings working their way back to the piston.
bmwpowere36m3
ArboristSite Operative
You should adjust the carb, regardless of mods (even stock). Usually that requires removing the limiter caps to gain range of adjustment. If you muff mod (MM), then you'll need to re-tune the carb again (this will definitely require the removal of limiter caps). As far as advancing the timing, I'm not sure whether is requires a carb adjustment. It would be prudent to check and become familiar with it [carb tuning] if you want your saw to live a long and happy life.
I would start with a limiter removal and muff mod... those two will net noticeable improvements. The acceleration on my MS192T wasn't super snappy, like my CS-590 (muff mod and limiter removal). It wasn't terrible by any means either. Afterwards the response was much improved and in the cut seemed more powerful. Just the improvement in response made it worth it for less than an hours of fiddling.
However.... judging by reports on this site and vids (blsnelling for example), timing advance improves the response even further on certain saws including the MS193. This mod is more involved, so I haven't done it yet.
I would start with a limiter removal and muff mod... those two will net noticeable improvements. The acceleration on my MS192T wasn't super snappy, like my CS-590 (muff mod and limiter removal). It wasn't terrible by any means either. Afterwards the response was much improved and in the cut seemed more powerful. Just the improvement in response made it worth it for less than an hours of fiddling.
However.... judging by reports on this site and vids (blsnelling for example), timing advance improves the response even further on certain saws including the MS193. This mod is more involved, so I haven't done it yet.
The Diesel
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for link.
That's interesting. I took mine apart and the muffler is wide open as well. Stihl must have changed the muffler.
I guess I won't have to mod the muffler after all.
I am a little confused. I thought the epa required the restricted muffler. Why would stihl put the little hole on earlier models and then switch to the open muffler?
Seedling345
ArboristSite Operative
How much is the 193t roughly
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The Diesel
ArboristSite Lurker
I paid $289 at local dealer.
bmwpowere36m3
ArboristSite Operative
They must have changed it... the opening under the deflector on my MS192 was much smaller. I opened it up as much as the muff in that link (almost the entire area of that recess).
I also opened up the slit/opening on the underside of the deflector. But kept it large enough to hold the spark arrestor screen down.
I also opened up the slit/opening on the underside of the deflector. But kept it large enough to hold the spark arrestor screen down.
Seedling345
ArboristSite Operative
Effie aye. My Tanaka top handle is Still treating me well but if it breaks I'm gonna get me one of these after watching a few vids. It seems over the past couple years people have really changed their mind about these little top handles
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Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
He must have a dealer that really likes him... mine was $339+tax, came with a 14" Rollomatic E, .050 PS3 chain, scabbard, swench, and screwdriver.
You might want to check up on the warranty. If you buy new, demand it comes direct from the factory still sealed in its shipping box and don't dik with it for the first 3 tanks of 50:1 gas.
You might want to check up on the warranty. If you buy new, demand it comes direct from the factory still sealed in its shipping box and don't dik with it for the first 3 tanks of 50:1 gas.
Yes, you can mod the muffler without advancing the ignition. And yes, re-tuning the carb is required either way.
The Diesel
ArboristSite Lurker
I don't get special price. Dealer is one of largest stihl dealers in US. Not mom and pop shop that has 1 or 2 of each model. They have 10 of each. They sell husky and echo too but prices are good but not as good as stihl. For stihl they let you choose any bar/chain for same price within the range recommended.
What do you mean get in sealed box? Dealer puts it together, fills with gas/oil and fires up. Warranty on top handles is 3 months per stihl website.
It was raining earlier so I was playing g with the 193t. Buried the bar in some hickory and it seems to be strong saw for its size. Only 2 tanks of gas so far.
What do you mean get in sealed box? Dealer puts it together, fills with gas/oil and fires up. Warranty on top handles is 3 months per stihl website.
It was raining earlier so I was playing g with the 193t. Buried the bar in some hickory and it seems to be strong saw for its size. Only 2 tanks of gas so far.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
The saw I just got - between paying full retail, barely putting out any bar oil(none would get to the bottom of the bar where the most friction is, it seems to have fixed itself however), putting a $35 gallon of motomix thru it, and it only somehow putting out ~80psi cold compression - is leaving a bad taste in my mouth. Even when the dealer was 'tuning' it, the thing would not just vibrate around, but 'hop' every now and then on the table like a racoon in a burlap sack. Ran like crap the first 3 tankfuls - chain would stop moving if you put any pressure on it.
The thing was almost impossible to tune right, it is literally just a fiberglass hair of a screwturn between spitting gas and sludge out the muffler, burbling, and running too lean. The fuel filter standing straight up instead of laying flat in the tank doesn't help either. Even went and got a PET-1000R to assist but, it doesn't work as well as the ol' earballs. I think I finally got it set right yesterday - got it where it has good power even with medium pressure, just burbles when I get the pressure off the cut, and the EGT heats up on a 'slow-curve' at WOT with the hottest point not being able to get uncomfortable on the forearm a few inches from the muffler port. I had been running it a bit fat for most of the gal so everything would be well-lubed during break-in and I don't think the rings set until I got it right yesterday. It was sucking air past the -ring- (btw, it uses only ONE piston ring, like the MS170), when I would put my ear next to the muffler I could hear it hissing past it. But when I went today and tried to listen for it before cold-start, it seems to be gone and the starter is much harder to pull slowly by twisting the wrist.
I just checked the warranty again, and seems you are correct, it is 3 months with no double duration applicable (1gal motomix purchase). Looks like I need to run this sucker and make sure its not a factory defect and get it well broken-in before then. For some reason I thought it said no warranty for top-handles, and only commercial/rental gets 3 months, hence the New-in-Box suggestion. However, personally after this experience, that is only way I would purchase another new Stihl in the future - bar, chain, and powerhead still factory-sealed.
The thing was almost impossible to tune right, it is literally just a fiberglass hair of a screwturn between spitting gas and sludge out the muffler, burbling, and running too lean. The fuel filter standing straight up instead of laying flat in the tank doesn't help either. Even went and got a PET-1000R to assist but, it doesn't work as well as the ol' earballs. I think I finally got it set right yesterday - got it where it has good power even with medium pressure, just burbles when I get the pressure off the cut, and the EGT heats up on a 'slow-curve' at WOT with the hottest point not being able to get uncomfortable on the forearm a few inches from the muffler port. I had been running it a bit fat for most of the gal so everything would be well-lubed during break-in and I don't think the rings set until I got it right yesterday. It was sucking air past the -ring- (btw, it uses only ONE piston ring, like the MS170), when I would put my ear next to the muffler I could hear it hissing past it. But when I went today and tried to listen for it before cold-start, it seems to be gone and the starter is much harder to pull slowly by twisting the wrist.
I just checked the warranty again, and seems you are correct, it is 3 months with no double duration applicable (1gal motomix purchase). Looks like I need to run this sucker and make sure its not a factory defect and get it well broken-in before then. For some reason I thought it said no warranty for top-handles, and only commercial/rental gets 3 months, hence the New-in-Box suggestion. However, personally after this experience, that is only way I would purchase another new Stihl in the future - bar, chain, and powerhead still factory-sealed.
The Diesel
ArboristSite Lurker
Sorry to hear about trouble. Call stihl customer service. They seem to work with people having trouble. Or ask your dealer to swap out saw.
I plan to run this one hard for first three months.....;-)
Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
I think they restricted the exhaust port at the cylinder wall, because it looks extremely tiny compared to the rectangle mounting hole on the engine block. But thats just a guess.
Thanks. I'll see how it runs the next few times. If it still has 80psi and cuts like crap, to the dealer it goes.
I doubt it would run with only 80 PSI compression.
Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
It starts to get up there (around 20-25psi per pull), but soon as it hit 90, it would drop back down to 75-80. I may send the gauge back to amazon, but I don't think the ear-next-to-muffler test lies. In your experience, should a saw this new have a small air leak past the piston ring on the compression stroke? I deemed it plausible due to there being only one ring on this new 193 design.
I got some wood lined up today, so I'll check it again after its ran that job n cooled back down in the evening, and give ya an update.
Sorry about the thread hijack OP, but hopefully you question has been answered satisfactorily thusfar.
All saws will leak compression past the rings. Your gauge is most definitely bad if it drops pressure. There should be a Schrader valve at the very tip of the hose that prevents that, as well as another up at the gauge itself.
Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
It'll hold the 75 psi just fine. But now that I give it some though, you are right - it shouldn't drop back down at all. Its got a schrader at the gauge, and what looks like a 'carb gas-needle' type valve at the tip of the hose where the diff mm attachments screw on. Maybe jerking the saw around is opening the needle valve.... I'll have to test it on a bigger, more stable engine. I did unscrew the gauge itself and attach a tire-checker hose that I had from a gauge that busted, and it seemed to read the tire pressure about right, albeit a little on the high side (45 on compression gauge when my other tire gauges say 35). So the big dilemma, tap the 8mm threaded adapter for a HVAC schrader, or return it to amazon? Any better options for ~$25? 300psi Gauge, hose, sparkchecker, case, & 8,10,12,14mm adapters?
