Steve, I looked up your Craftsman saw and it uses the same cylinder kit (530071884) as the Poulan 3416. It's a 34cc saw. Does your muffler internals look like the 3314 internals in this thread? http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42648
muffler mod on a poulan pro
- Thread starter petordragon
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Steve, I looked up your Craftsman saw and it uses the same cylinder kit (530071884) as the Poulan 3416. It's a 34cc saw. Does your muffler internals look like the 3314 internals in this thread? http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42648
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have two Poulans I have done Muffler mods on and one was before I even found ASHere's the one my kid did on his little 2500 that I put together from a couple of give me's for free.
He brazed it, but I would have welded it. Made a completely different runner out of it. In fact it's one of his favorite's for limbing with, even with all of my saws he has to choose from.
For some Reason my Cheap 2550 at 40cc has almost as much power as my 295 at 46cc
I cant seem to kill either saw and the muff mods made a noticeable diff the 4620/295 had a epa I think cat solid muffler on it, I replaced it with a older two piece one for a 295 new at a whopping $12.00 Being two piece it was easy to mod. All I did was open up the holes in the baffle and drill a Hole right beside the stock exhaust port (3/8th hole) and open the stock exhaust on the 2550 port a little too. It looks completely stock except a bit louder.The 295 older Muffler had a exhaust port twice the size of the Stainless 4620 one the saw came with.
They do have a good antivibe on them a bit wet noodle feeling, but my hands never tingle like they do after cutting with some of my old saw's.
I really don't know why they are hated so much maybe it is fear? I have shown up both Small Jreds/Husky's and Stihls in the same cc Class my solo is better built but cut's no faster. I have had the 2550 about 4 years now and it's showing know sign of rolling over and dieing After all it is the last American saw company alive!
Maybe if enough demand for a American built saw they would make some good ones? I know Elux or Husky owns em but they are still made in the USA
Now how many of you haul your wood in a German or Sweadish built truck?Okay a bit of a Rant but the New Toyota's are getting bigger all the time same as Nissan, Datsun if you are old like me. Whats wrong with Echos?
Sorry about getting a bit off topic but that's what the Internet is for lol!
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I don't know Scott. Haven't opened it up yet. I've got this thing all in pieces right now. Putting a new ring and piston in it. It's truly just a learning project for me. Thanks for the reference to the other thread. That info will help me down the line. I'll try to let you know what the inside looks like if and when I get there. Want to get it running again first.
Steve
petordragon
ArboristSite Lurker
pp4218avx is the number on the saw the muffler # is 401 nc with an a under it
I tried to find your 42cc cylinder (PN 530071884) used in a pre EPA PP260 saw but no luck. I would bet that the muffler bolt pattern is the same. If you want to measure the bolt pattern let me know. A few years ago I bought a new complete muffler with plate and gasket for $11 including shipping. A used one would be probably $5. A lot of the poulans used the same older black two piece muffler that's easy to modify. When you say that you have to let up on the saw to get the rpms up are you letting this saw do the cutting or are you trying to force it to cut?
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petordragon
ArboristSite Lurker
does anyone know what the ideal rpms is on the high side for this poulan pro?
petordragon
ArboristSite Lurker
before any adjustments or touching the muffler it would bog itself down you would have to back it out occasionally to get the rpms back up. after the adjustments and messing with the muffler I got pretty aggressive with it to see where it would bog down at. It didn't bog down just lowered the rpms slightly. With the chain that is on it you really can't force feed it
baconquilt
ArboristSite Lurker
i didnt look like baileys had it but, where would one find a replacement muffler like one bolded above? i have the pp4620avx i want to muf modI have two Poulans I have done Muffler mods on and one was before I even found AS
For some Reason my Cheap 2550 at 40cc has almost as much power as my 295 at 46cc
All I did was open up the holes in the baffle and drill a Hole right beside the stock exhaust port (3/8th hole) and open the stock exhaust on the 2550 port a little too. It looks completely stock except a bit louder.The 295 older Muffler had a exhaust port twice the size of the Stainless 4620 one the saw came with.
They do have a good antivibe on them a bit wet noodle feeling, but my hands never tingle like they do after cutting with some of my old saw's.
I really don't know why they are hated so much maybe it is fear? I have shown up both Small Jreds/Husky's and Stihls in the same cc Class my solo is better built but cut's no faster. I have had the 2550 about 4 years now and it's showing know sign of rolling over and dieing After all it is the last American saw company alive!
Maybe if enough demand for a American built saw they would make some good ones? I know Elux or Husky owns em but they are still made in the USA
Now how many of you haul your wood in a German or Sweadish built truck?Okay a bit of a Rant but the New Toyota's are getting bigger all the time same as Nissan, Datsun if you are old like me. Whats wrong with Echos?
Sorry about getting a bit off topic but that's what the Internet is for lol!
and it seems the 295 muffler is the easiest route. did you get direct through poulan?
baconquilt
ArboristSite Lurker
http://cgi.ebay.com/POULAN-295-/-46...temQQimsxZ20100225?IMSfp=TL100225139016r27679
would this be the two piece muffler? or is it just the stock one they put on?
would this be the two piece muffler? or is it just the stock one they put on?
That looks to me to be the stock one that they put on, it's just not crimped together.. The part# for the 295 muffler is 530069707.. it is distinguished by having exposed bolts/screws that hold the front half to the back half, with no cover over them. Also the 295 muffler has one bolt that holds the back body to the cylinder when the two port/cover bolts are out. Your cylinder will have a boss below the exhaust port that may or may not be drilled and tapped to accept this bolt. This bolt simply holds the back half of the muffler on the cyl when it is taken apart, to aid on re-installation.. It is not necessary, just handy. My Poulan 330 is similar. That picture on the ebay link; you'd need to see the front cover flipped over to see if there was all the parts underneath it, there is a diffuser and screen and two stand offs that are supposed to be there for a complete kit... But you want the above muffler off the 295! In the process of getting one of these mufflers to replace my buddies 4620 with the 295 one. $10bux or so..
Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:
Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:
baconquilt
ArboristSite Lurker
thanks alot.
always appreciated :greenchainsaw:
Here is the finished (albeit dirty) muffler on my 4218 post mods. I removed the muffler and pried it open (fun!) I drilled 2 3/8 holes in the diffuser tube, immediately above the two rows of smaller holes, I then opened up the two slots on the front face of the muffler and removed the screen. I then cut a few slots in the front outlet plate with a dremel cut-off wheel and made some louvers. I also bent out the large exit 'scoop' a bit to make the exit larger.
It works really well on this strato saw and is the loudest of all three (4620, 330 and 4218) and all have muffler mods as well!
The only thing I can't stand on these saws (4218's) are the air filters! Poor, cheap design! I would like to get a small piece of foam or something to replace the little felt pad it now has..
Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:
It works really well on this strato saw and is the loudest of all three (4620, 330 and 4218) and all have muffler mods as well!
The only thing I can't stand on these saws (4218's) are the air filters! Poor, cheap design! I would like to get a small piece of foam or something to replace the little felt pad it now has..
Old51AVE :greenchainsaw:
KRP
ArboristSite Operative
"The only thing I can't stand on these saws (4218's) are the air filters! Poor, cheap design! I would like to get a small piece of foam or something to replace the little felt pad it now has.."
Try a stiff piece of metal window screen cut to the same size as the felt pad and put under the pad.
This helps prevent the pad from distorting and leaking around the edges. I agree this is the worst filter design I have ever seen, just a cheap piece of c#%p.
Try a stiff piece of metal window screen cut to the same size as the felt pad and put under the pad.
This helps prevent the pad from distorting and leaking around the edges. I agree this is the worst filter design I have ever seen, just a cheap piece of c#%p.
If you'll clean and oil the filters it will stop.
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hunter0182
ArboristSite Member
muffer mod
ok that must be a 4620 muffer,but some of the later 295s had that muffler,krappy design, i bought 6 4620s ordered two piece mufflers for the early 295 saw,gut the defusor,and drilled 4 5/16 holes in the front of the muffler,retune the carb,and it really woke the saws up,you can get the mufflers from ordertree still,i bought a few from the place in nashville tn,he is on this site to,great people
pulled muffler off and found this. pulled shaft out of muffler which allows it to bypass put small washer on the bolt without the shaft so bolt would tighten and put everything else back on. Will this be too much?
ok that must be a 4620 muffer,but some of the later 295s had that muffler,krappy design, i bought 6 4620s ordered two piece mufflers for the early 295 saw,gut the defusor,and drilled 4 5/16 holes in the front of the muffler,retune the carb,and it really woke the saws up,you can get the mufflers from ordertree still,i bought a few from the place in nashville tn,he is on this site to,great people
zxcvbob
ArboristSite Lurker
I have a Husky 235 with a muffler that looks exactly like the pics in post #1. I haven't taken it off yet; I'm waiting for the carb adjusting tool that I ordered to get here first. I just bought the saw a few months ago; so it probably has some kind of catalytic baffles in it? I assume I want to get rid of the catalyst but not quite sure how if the muffler is seamless.
To start with, I thought maybe fabricate a skeletonized cover to replace the front piece that holds the screen in place (cut a piece of steel the right size from the end of a coffee can and drill lots of 1/4" holes in it.) Put it on and try the saw with those tubes removed. Then drill some holes in the tubes and put them back in, in case the muffler needs those for support.
Ideally, a saw wouldn't have a muffler at all, just a resonator. If I can get close to that and still have it look "stock" and still have a full spark-arrest screen, I'll be happy. Actually, I'll be happy if I don't ruin it and if it doesn't look like a POS when I'm finished.
What's this about ordering a replacement muffler from an older model to work with? That way I could keep the original to put everything back like it was...
I bet this makes a lot more sense when I pull the muffler off and see what I've really got.
To start with, I thought maybe fabricate a skeletonized cover to replace the front piece that holds the screen in place (cut a piece of steel the right size from the end of a coffee can and drill lots of 1/4" holes in it.) Put it on and try the saw with those tubes removed. Then drill some holes in the tubes and put them back in, in case the muffler needs those for support.
Ideally, a saw wouldn't have a muffler at all, just a resonator. If I can get close to that and still have it look "stock" and still have a full spark-arrest screen, I'll be happy. Actually, I'll be happy if I don't ruin it and if it doesn't look like a POS when I'm finished.
What's this about ordering a replacement muffler from an older model to work with? That way I could keep the original to put everything back like it was...
I bet this makes a lot more sense when I pull the muffler off and see what I've really got.
Hey;
I've used this method:
Take dermel tool with cutoff wheel, carefully grind a line into the edge of the crimp holding the two halves together, do not cut all the way through the crimp.
Next, take a flat blade screwdriver and (like shucking an oyster) pry the crimp up to 90*. This will take some patience to get the crimp started, then it will be easier around the rest of the crimp.
Now take the screwdriver and separate the halves, the internal baffle (if any) is now easily removed in one piece.
Make any changes you want now.
Next join the halves, and re-form the crimp down over the other half, and I like to seal the crimp seam with a bead of Ultra Gray RTV.
Be sure to keep any internal support pieces for the attaching screws so the muffler isn't crushed by the screws when you re-mount the muffler. You may have to make you own internal support if the cat con and support are one piece design (some Echos).
I've used this method:
Take dermel tool with cutoff wheel, carefully grind a line into the edge of the crimp holding the two halves together, do not cut all the way through the crimp.
Next, take a flat blade screwdriver and (like shucking an oyster) pry the crimp up to 90*. This will take some patience to get the crimp started, then it will be easier around the rest of the crimp.
Now take the screwdriver and separate the halves, the internal baffle (if any) is now easily removed in one piece.
Make any changes you want now.
Next join the halves, and re-form the crimp down over the other half, and I like to seal the crimp seam with a bead of Ultra Gray RTV.
Be sure to keep any internal support pieces for the attaching screws so the muffler isn't crushed by the screws when you re-mount the muffler. You may have to make you own internal support if the cat con and support are one piece design (some Echos).
zxcvbob
ArboristSite Lurker
I pulled the muffler off. The tubes that run front-to-back and surround the screws don't seem to support anything. They block the exhaust from exiting the screw-access holes (so all the exhaust has to go thru the catalyst and out the little slits at the top and bottom of the front) So the simplest mod is just remove those tubes, and drill a hole in front plate aligned with the left-side mounting screw hole. Or leave the front plate off entirely and put the screen back on with just the brass nut and maybe a little fender washer.
I'm going to make a new front plate from a bean can lid (it's just the right size) to protect the spark screen, and drill 7/16" holes in it aligned with the screw-access holes -- which are now the main exit holes. That way I don't actually have to permanently modify anything and can put the saw back together just like it came from the factory. Assuming I don't lose the three pieces I took off. The thing I'll have to watch for is if those tubes are also a heat shield to protect the bolts.
I'd like to tear all the catalytic converter crap out and have a larger resonant chamber, but that's too much like work. Taking the tubes out was really easy. I can do more later if I get ambitious.
I'm going to make a new front plate from a bean can lid (it's just the right size) to protect the spark screen, and drill 7/16" holes in it aligned with the screw-access holes -- which are now the main exit holes. That way I don't actually have to permanently modify anything and can put the saw back together just like it came from the factory. Assuming I don't lose the three pieces I took off.
The thing I'll have to watch for is if those tubes are also a heat shield to protect the bolts.I'd like to tear all the catalytic converter crap out and have a larger resonant chamber, but that's too much like work. Taking the tubes out was really easy. I can do more later if I get ambitious.
fordranger04
ArboristSite Lurker
i did the 295 muffler swap on my 4620 lowes saw. worked great for about hours untill i relized i had moslty melted right the the top of the clutch cover and chain break handle( that i just purchased to get rid of that crappy tooless thing) the muffler exhausts threw that back much like the the original muffler did. i thought about maybe changing to from the 4620 to the older 295 heat sheild and too see if that might work. anyone got any low buck idea's of how to prevent this from happening? any info would me great!
