My echo cs60s saw project

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August76

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Picked up this saw for $31 yeah 31 lol
It was serviced 5 years ago. Carb looks new. Gaskets look new. One of the needle threads was hard to undo like it had goop on it maybe. Cleaned carb put all back . Set low and high idle to specs. Wouldn't run unless almost in completely turned in and the high idle screw effects the low idle and it leaking gas bad. Can't see from where. It'll run funky and leak gas. I suspect it's just a bad carb issue
 

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If the saw gets too much gas, the carb setting may be too rich or, if the setting (L=1; H=1) is OK, the carb may be leaking internally (metering valve). The valves are available separately.
The one in my avatar is a CS60 (no "S") - those did not have the auto oiler yet.
 
Sounds like maybe the metering diaphragm didn't get 'hooked' onto the metering lever, which causes the lever to be pushed down when it shouldn't be.
Sort of common mistake with Tillotson carbs...
 
If the saw gets too much gas, the carb setting may be too rich or, if the setting (L=1; H=1) is OK, the carb may be leaking internally (metering valve). The valves are available separately.
The one in my avatar is a CS60 (no "S") - those did not have the auto oiler yet.
It needs to be in more than that to run I'm going to take it off and take it apart again
 
Sounds like maybe the metering diaphragm didn't get 'hooked' onto the metering lever, which causes the lever to be pushed down when it shouldn't be.
Sort of common mistake with Tillotson carbs...
I did notice that little hook thing when I took the carburetor apart I'm going to pull it off I'll double-check but I'm pretty confident that I didn't screw that up but I also need to figure out where it's leaking
 
I JUST ran into the same thing with a rebuild, same symptoms.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-to-me-dayton-2z463.322170/page-2#post-6627091

See the attached pdf (service manual for HS carbs). Pay close attention to step 5 of the disassembly instructions. Make sure you do the reverse of that when putting it together. Also make sure to get the height of the metering lever correct.

It's leaking right out of the carb. If you simply placed the metering diaphragm on top of the lever, the nub on the diaphragm is holding the lever down which is holding the plunger wide open. Once you get the thing started, there is nothing restricting the fuel flow through the carburetor.

On a positive note, it sounds like the pump side of carb is working well.:D
 

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I JUST ran into the same thing with a rebuild, same symptoms.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-to-me-dayton-2z463.322170/page-2#post-6627091

See the attached pdf (service manual for HS carbs). Pay close attention to step 5 of the disassembly instructions. Make sure you do the reverse of that when putting it together. Also make sure to get the height of the metering lever correct.

It's leaking right out of the carb. If you simply placed the metering diaphragm on top of the lever, the nub on the diaphragm is holding the lever down which is holding the plunger wide open. Once you get the thing started, there is nothing restricting the fuel flow through the carburetor.

On a positive note, it sounds like the pump side of carb is working well.:D
Yeah I hooked the tab in the diaphragm
 
It is an old 60cc saw with a bar too long (and probably a dull chain) in oak... don't expect miracles ;)
Yeah that struck me as a dull chain because it's still a pretty big saw and it should have some pretty good torque I felt mine kick itself just by revving it it has a lot of torque
 
It is not really a big saw - they didn't have saws any smaller in the old days. I just was too lazy to sharpen the chain for one or two cuts.

But in dry oak any chain looks duller than it actually is.
 
It is not really a big saw - they didn't have saws any smaller in the old days. I just was too lazy to sharpen the chain for one or two cuts.

But in dry oak any chain looks duller than it actually is.
I can't wait to cut with this thing. Mine looks to have a 24 inch bar. Razor sharp chain. Some one used a electric sharpener and it looks odd
 
I got it running I put a little RTV silicone on the needles because it was leaking out of the high and low but the idle on this saw is all over the damn place and it surges for no apparent reason I've had it running for about 15 minutes now which is the longest I've been able to keep it running
 
I'm still having issues getting this saw running. 1 turn out on the carb will usually flood it. Almost all the way in it will start but no matter what I do it boggs under throttle. And once you set it to idle better it won't re start unless the low screw is almost all turned in. I removed the tank vent valve to dismiss that. The high idle seems to have effect on the low idle. I don't know a thing about these tillotson carbs.
 
Pulling it apart now.
I'm not sure if cylinder looks normal or not.
Wish I had a way to pressure test it. Maybe the seals are bad
 

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The piston looks Ok...
You most probably have a leaking inlet needle in the carb - needle not sealing properly or metering diaphragm hardened/deformed, keeping the needle from closing and sealing properly. I guess a carb overhaul wouldn't hurt.
 
The piston looks Ok...
You most probably have a leaking inlet needle in the carb - needle not sealing properly or metering diaphragm hardened/deformed, keeping the needle from closing and sealing properly. I guess a carb overhaul wouldn't hurt.
I took it apart once looked rebuilt
 
... remote diagnostics aren't easy. From your description I would look for a problem in the fuel supply (too much fuel and/or fuel when not needed) ...
 
Def too much and leaks sometimes in there. Bad needle seat I think. Not fixable. Needs new carb I guess?
 
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