My first Chainsaw, a new Makita DCS6401

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Mate if you tried running that thing on 25:1 for more than about 5 tanks it will be that gummed up you'll be lucky to start it.
For some reason all of the 7900's I've had have struggled with anything below 40:1.
Husky's older mindset (and it was in their manuals) was that any Husqvarna chainsaw over 80cc was meant to run on 25:1 but that was years ago. Now they only recommend that on their 3120 in Australia. The 50cc thing he pulled is utter BS in the last 20 years.
It's funny how the guy used his "20 year experience as a Husky dealer" line to try and convince you he must know what he's talking about. The second you hear anbody start blowing their own trumpet to prove a point instead of actually just PROVING it run and hide. Being a Husky dealer for 20 years doesn't automatically mean you know anything unfortunately. It's probably got as lot to do with why he is no longer a Husky dealer?
It's no different to somebody saying (and I've heard it plenty of times) that "I know how to file a chain because I was a pro firewood cutter for 20 years". Normally you'll find the left hand cutters at 45° and the right hand cutters at 25°. Yup, they're good alright...

He's also an uninformed retard with his comment on the pre filter. Just goes to show he actually knows nothing about the saws he is meant to be servicing. The saw should also rev harder than 13,100rpm - he is probably trying to lean it out with the idle screw or something. Give me his phone number and I'll ring him ;)
 
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The saw should also rev harder than 13,100rpm - he is probably trying to lean it out with the idle screw or something. Give me his phone number and I'll ring him ;)

Be my guest, I marked the high speed screw before it went in there, it appears to have been screwed clockwise approx 1/4 of a turn.

Rob -> Auspower Forest and Garden, Bayswater VIC 3153 - hardware - TrueLocal

One other thing he said was that is tach was the type that senses the field of the ignition system to measure rpm and could be ~200rpm out.

I'm going to sharpen up the chain and give the saw a run on the weekend, I rang these guys, apprently they can do it too, but min charge is $44.00

New Age Arbor - Australia's Tree Equipment Specialists - Arborist Equipment, Gear & Supplies / Husqvarna Chainsaws / Climbing Gear / Rayco Chippers and Grinders


Or there is a few Stihl dealerships around I could try.
 
Be my guest, I marked the high speed screw before it went in there, it appears to have been screwed clockwise approx 1/4 of a turn.

Rob -> Auspower Forest and Garden, Bayswater VIC 3153 - hardware - TrueLocal

One other thing he said was that is tach was the type that senses the field of the ignition system to measure rpm and could be ~200rpm out.

I'm going to sharpen up the chain and give the saw a run on the weekend, I rang these guys, apprently they can do it too, but min charge is $44.00

New Age Arbor - Australia's Tree Equipment Specialists - Arborist Equipment, Gear & Supplies / Husqvarna Chainsaws / Climbing Gear / Rayco Chippers and Grinders


Or there is a few Stihl dealerships around I could try.

Before taking it to another dealer and potentially getting ripped off maybe try to contact another Aussie AS member down your way. Post over here http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/175005-137.htm#post3737472 for some help and I'm sure somebody close who knows saws will be able to tune it properly for you. The other option is post it to me and I'll post it back. No charge apart from freight :)
The easiest way to tune these saws to start with is screw the high jet clockwise at full revs until the saw hits the rev limiter (approx 13,500rpm) then back off a touch. This can be tough though for guys who are not familiar with the way a saw should sound.
By the way clockwise on the High jet (marked H) leans a saw out and anti clockwise richens it up. Stihl dealerships are always an option however with the 7901's being rev limited there is a chance that the average dealer won't be able to tune it properly. Ideally these things need to be tuned in the cut.
 
Thanks i've asked in the aussie thread, see how I go with that before the freight option! cheers
 
Thanks i've asked in the aussie thread, see how I go with that before the freight option! cheers

Good luck. There are some really good Aussie members here but also a couple that would probably seize it up if they got a screwdriver within 200m of your saw :)
 
Hi there,

From what I have read above, dont take your saw to that dealer again. His opinion vs the manual, and telling you he's tuned it but it may go lean unless you run 25:1 is BS to me.

Graham
 
Hey hulsty, recognise the user name from a few other 4x4 forums! good to see you are happy with your purchase. I am looking at buying one of these saws but like you, cant justify the dollars for the stihls and huskys.
Just wondering where people are buying their makita saws down under? is there anywhere in aus that sells the the HD air filter kit? and the BB upgrade parts?
 
Hey hulsty, recognise the user name from a few other 4x4 forums! good to see you are happy with your purchase. I am looking at buying one of these saws but like you, cant justify the dollars for the stihls and huskys.
Just wondering where people are buying their makita saws down under? is there anywhere in aus that sells the the HD air filter kit? and the BB upgrade parts?

I've got the BB kits and there are a few places here that sell the Makitas. Any hardware store can get them but they won't know the first thing about servicing them. Then again if you pull the top end and fit a BB kit you'll void your warranty anyway. Oh and they're reliable so probably won't need a warranty anyway :)
HD kit best bought online from the US. Makita Australia charge absolutsly stupid dollars for them. Try 4 times more expensive than from the US.
 
I can recommend the BB kits that Matt has, they are excellent quality

[video=youtube;sif23TyUEhc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sif23TyUEhc[/video]
 
I can recommend the BB kits that Matt has, they are excellent quality

[video=youtube;sif23TyUEhc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sif23TyUEhc[/video]

Unfortunately Wayne the ones I have now aren't the same as those original kits :( Still good but not as well finished as those original ones.
 
hey thanks for the replies guys! i bought the saw this morning, will stand out like dogs balls next to the other stihls. ill be sure to get in touch with you MCW and those bits and most likely a new bar and chain for it. thanks!
 
hey thanks for the replies guys! i bought the saw this morning, will stand out like dogs balls next to the other stihls. ill be sure to get in touch with you MCW and those bits and most likely a new bar and chain for it. thanks!

No dramas :cheers: Have fun with it.
 
Sorry, coming in a little late. I noticed this...

He also mentioned that he had to lean it out about a quarter of a turn and gained another 1000rpm ish and that the saw is now tuned to its peak and could get hot etc and lean and really needs to be run at 25:1. He also said that if something happens warranty will be denied due to the 50:1 ratio and that I should avoid changing oils as they are "absorbed into the cylinder walls" etc

Then this...

Picked the saw up, he said he added a little oil to the tank to bring it down from 50:1, anyway its tuned to 13100rpm, said it wont turn any harder regardless of the screw adjustment, so he turned it back and left it at 13100rpm and also said I should put back on the pre-filter.

Personally, I would revisit the tuning with the pre-filter installed. It doesn't give me warm fuzzies to have a saw "tuned" and then recommending the change to the filtration... the dealer, in my humble opinion, should have asked you for the pre-filter and then finished the tuning.

Also said I should get a decent chain for it, a carlton or something, It already has a carlton on it......

Carlton makes all manner of chains, safety, semi-chisel, full chisel, consumer, professional. So he's probably right, you can do better with a better chain, but it is not the brand that makes the difference so much as the type you select.
 
Sorry, coming in a little late. I noticed this...



Then this...



Personally, I would revisit the tuning with the pre-filter installed. It doesn't give me warm fuzzies to have a saw "tuned" and then recommending the change to the filtration... the dealer, in my humble opinion, should have asked you for the pre-filter and then finished the tuning.



Carlton makes all manner of chains, safety, semi-chisel, full chisel, consumer, professional. So he's probably right, you can do better with a better chain, but it is not the brand that makes the difference so much as the type you select.


Thanks mate, with the help of MCW I ended up tuning the saw myself without the pre filter fitted. The chain is a Carlton semi-chisel from MCW too. In the end I believed that dealer to be a douchebag and I wont ever go back. In contrast a local Stihl dealer I went to for some trimmer parts was much more helpful.
 
Hey hulsty, recognise the user name from a few other 4x4 forums! good to see you are happy with your purchase. I am looking at buying one of these saws but like you, cant justify the dollars for the stihls and huskys.
Just wondering where people are buying their makita saws down under? is there anywhere in aus that sells the the HD air filter kit? and the BB upgrade parts?


Yeah I do a fair bit of 4x4ing, below are some pics of 4x4ing and chainsawing, hope people dont mind. Took us about 2 hours with 2 saws going to clear this river crossing. I bought by HD filter kit from Edge and Engine in the states, with a few extra parts it was about $110 delivered. With the 20'' bar I have found no need for a BB kit, yet...

Everybody loves photos

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Thanks for the reply hulsty, saw some of them pics on facebook! looked like a good trip!

well the saw arrived today, couldnt be happier! just waiting for the HD kit to arrive now. ended up buying through sydney tools, bloody pain the ass to deal with!

thanks for all the advice.

Al :cheers:
 
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