My first project, 440 with 460BB P&C. Need advice.

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Isna

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I had a 440 parts saw hanging around and needed a bigger saw. I therefore decided to rebuild my 440 with a 460 big bore P&C. I got plenty of info on how to do this brousing around previous theads. I added a modded muffler, full wrap bar...
I still have a few questions:
With this setup, can I run a 8 pin rim with a 24" bar?
I am still waiting for the parts (some are on backorder) but I am already worried about adjusting the carb. This is my first project and, although I've been using saws for years, I am still uneasy about adjusting the carb. Any advice? (I only have basic tools.)
Finally, my 440 has a basic (nylon?) mesh filter. With a bigger P&C, modded muffler and possibly some porting job, should I improve the air intake? How?
Thanks for your help and sorry for any spelling mistakes (I'm French)...
 
I have plenty of other saws at work. This saw would be used occasionally at home. I usually use my 2163 on my land but would like a more powerfull saw for bigger trees (32" oak...). This will not be a race saw but, since it will not be my main saw, I wouldn't mind if it performs like a race saw. Just for the fun...
what would be the max RPM for this setup?
 
dont worry so much about RPMS. u need to deck the cyl head a little (called squish).... someone with more smarts on stihl can tell u how much... grind out the intake, exhaust and transfers. be very careful not to move the ports up or down unless u know what ur doin with degree wheel. u can widen the ports a little if u want. gut the muffler or just drill some extra big holes in the front of it. a stihl guru can give u the degree timing numbers and exact squish. again THIS IS ONLY BASIC CHANGES
 
I will check squish since it is not a Stihl P&C but I don't want to really bring it down (overheat, piston damage...). Plus, with a 046BB P&C, modded muffler, ..., I'm afraid too much compression will quickly kill the bearings of my 044 crankase (although I have an extra one). I just ordered a tach and wonder what RPM to aim. This would help me adjusting the carb.
 
You can lower your squish without "decking the head" simply by removing the base gasket. Check your squish with a piece of fine solder, general concesus is not to go below 0.020" or bad things could happen.

I took the base gasket out of my 385xp and widened the ports a little, now it rips.

Also don't go too large on holes drilled in the muffler because if you go to big you lose power, I think 80% of the exhaust port is about as wide as you wanna go.

The search function is frustrating at times, but is very useful.

Good luck and have fun with it.


ps. if I'm wrong I will no doubt be corrected:smile:
 
With some of the more popular Stihls and particularly the aftermarket kits you have to be careful when lowering the cyl you don't freeport the exhaust.

Remove/leave out the base gasket and check that the bottom of the exhaust skirt isn't clearing the bottom of the exhaust port.

There are plenty of people who can give you tips regarding these saws/kits in the chainsaw forum as far as porting.
 
If I read correctly you're putting a 046BB on a 044/440 case ? If so,you will have to elongate the mounting holes in the jug to fit the case. Also,you will have to "open" the case up where the piston skirt drops into the case,and shim out the bottom mounting screws on the muffler & trim the fins and a bit of plastic under the cyl. cover to make it fit right. May also have to file a bit off of the outside of one of the transfer ducts to clear the case. The trick is to not get in a big hurry and assemble (without rings for ease),many times taking a good look at where things are interfering and clear accordingly.
I've done quite a few of these & they really "wake up" :msp_w00t:
If you want to go a bit further,get an 066 piston & cut on a pop-up & feel it pull !

Steve
 
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