My First Strato Porting Job

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Chris-PA

Where the Wild Things Are
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First some background: I've had fun porting my plastic Poulan clamshells. Some have worked out great and I use them regularly, some have been dogs and/or failed, and I learned a few things. But I wanted a strato engined saw, and I figured what saws were what and got a few broken RedMax GZ4000s, which are the best small saws in my opinion. The very first one is actually a clone made by Jenn Feng in Taiwan, and after some minor repairs and a muffler mod it ran great, but this summer it ate a rod bearing and that was it. I stuck a Zenoah engine from a Ryobi RY10532 in it and it runs great. But I picked up a Jenn Feng Troy-Bilt branded carcass with a good engine, and decided to do that engine, put it back in the McCulloch and then fix the Ryobi.

It turns out that the Jenn Feng saws share almost nothing with the Zenoah saws. You can swap the engines, but all the JF made castings and forgings are actually different. As are all the case parts, air valve, filter and the Walbro carb. A couple of other parts will swap, but are not quite the same. When I looked at the Zenoah engine from the Ryobi all I did to it was to remove the base gasket (squish ended up right at 0.020") and blend the lower transfers to match the case. I did not touch the ports as I did not want to screw up the strato function and I know how well they run already. The timing from the Zenoah engine was:

E = 132
I = 137
I(S) = 165 (Strato air inlet)
T = 103

After removing the base gasket on the Jenn Feng engine I measured:

E = 132
I = 144
I(S) = 155
T = 101

I like the strategy of a short exhaust duration to maintain cylinder pressure, and a long intake duration. With strato the short blowdown should not matter as there should be little fuel in whatever goes out the open exhaust port. But I was disappointed that the intake duration was short and decided to port it. Here is the saw it's going in:
IMG_5585-800.jpg
 
The first thing I do with these is blend the lower transfers:
IMG_5921-800.jpg
I decided on this one to raise the exhaust a bit. There is a ridge round the inside of the port that is about 0.032" high, and I removed that on the top and sides:
IMG_5926-800.jpg IMG_5936-800.jpg

That meant I needed to raise the transfers to match, and I'm afraid I didn't get a shot of that. This was the first saw I've been able to do the transfers on because it has removable covers, but I spent quite a bit of time, mostly with a small triangular file to get them even and square.
 
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Once I raised the transfers, I had to modify the covers as they would have blocked the raised ports:
IMG_5928-800.jpg Here is the view of the thinned cover:
IMG_5931-800.jpg
From this view you can see that I had no room to lower the transfer floor to increase the duration of the strato air intake event.
 
That meant I had to modify the pocket in the piston. I marked off the distance I needed - about 0.050":
IMG_5938-800.jpg
Then I ground that edge (this was in process, it was straighter when I was done):
IMG_5939-800.jpg
When I was done I ended up with:

E = 142
I = 144
I(S) = 163
T = 114

I still have to advance the timing a bit and then swap it into the saw. I hope to get that done this week.

IMG_5941-800.jpg
 
Chris, I had a ryobi. Cleared my yard with it when I bought my house great running little saw. Curious of your gains.
 
Thanks guys - I'm curious too. That's still a very conservative exhaust duration, and it is probably about 55% of bore diameter so it should not mess much up. The transfer opening is larger now though, and I would have preferred not to reduce the velocity but I wanted to maintain the relationship to the exhaust.
 
Chris with a 10 degree change in exhaust timing are you not worried about compression loss?
Yes! And I've come to think that cylinder pressure is key so I generally don't try for long exhaust durations. The way a GZ4000 runs with such a small stock duration is good evidence of that approach.

But then I just dropped the jug down 0.020" by removing the gasket, and then I raised the port back up maybe 0.032". So the port edge is only 0.012" higher than it used to be, and that is only 5deg different on the opening event. Still, the 142 degree exhaust duration is not extreme, so I'm hoping it doesn't kill the low end too much.

I don't have a compression gauge, and I tend to think people mis-interpret the readings they get anyway, so I'll just have to run it and see.
 
Darn - I just looked at the weather for the week. I'm working in an unheated barn. Tomorrow is 51 going down to 38 (which really is nuts for January) so hopefully I can get some done tomorrow evening. After that we start heading down to the teens at night and then I want to be where the stoves are! Too bad weekends are not longer.....

I'll take a key to work tomorrow and cut that down there. No one ever knows what I'm working on anyway!
 
WHW, what are you using for assembly lube? Did you employ that degree wheel you made? How are you going to show us the saws kicking butt with the holdout on videos in Chris, Pa?
I just use 2-stroke oil. And yes, the results will likely be subjective as I doubt I can get anyone to video. I will try to time cuts against a stock GZ4000.

BTW, what member name did you used to use?
 
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