My first tree climbing today.

[Ruster22]

I am new here and new to tree climbing. I am nineteen and I have been doing chord wood, forest thinning, tree removal, and just about anything tree related that I can do from the ground, as half of my landscaping business, for about a year and a half.

Today I was offered a GM position for a tree climber. I learned a bunch from him and I am looking for input from you all.

The first two are tulip poplar:

About a third of the limbs Dave (the climber) tip tied, he cut and I pulled them into the landing zone letting them free fall:

A third he cut and let free fall:

And a third I lowered using a crotch in one of the trees:

Dave used, as far as I understand, a combination of techniques. He started up the first third just on spikes, at 20-30ft he added a flip line (clipping and un-clipping it around limbs), and he set an anchor at the highest point in one of the trees repelled/belayed the majority of the time off of that line. I also saw him repel with a 'slipping knot' on a plain carabiner. ( I am forgetting the names for all the devices and knots he showed me. :bang: )

He left the stubs of each limb for climbing, branches and gear got hung up occasionally but is wasn't bad and he cut them on his final repel before I dumped the stems.

Dave was running a 200T ( I need to tune it for him as the chain was running at idol, scary! )

I run a ms261 and love it.
Dave had a 460 Mag. (I have to get me one of those), but it ran sluggish with a ripping chain (maybe just me? I never cut with a ripping chain). We also cut a big double stemmed 'soft' maple. We were able to drop bigger chunks with this and I tried his new lowering device (pretty handy chunk of overpriced steal). Every thing went smooth except the last stick (of course the last cut of the day (plus the LO's were watching)) I had the 261 buried in the 24" maple ( I usually run a 20" B&C, but I only had an 18 on there) I grabbed the 460 and cut through my humboldt, stick twisted, snapped, and crushed a few (extra) saplings. Oh well.

So... I'm thinking of getting meself a set of spikes, a harness, and a flip line. If I can get up a tree and set a line I'll broaden the scope of trees I can take down with out getting too deep in to the expensive climbing gear (not to mention the learning).

Let me know what you'll think.

Ru

 

[tsouz007]

Brace yourself ... should get some interesting feedback on this.

The tree is down, no one injured, nothing damaged so good job.

Some observations:

Climbing with just spikes is dangerous and definitely not recommended. Always use a flip-line, usually two. That way you area always tied in once when going around limbs (but on a removal you shouldn't have to go around limbs because you take them off as you go up). And whenever you are using a chainsaw in a tree you need two tie-in-points anyway. I often use two TIP when using my hand saw (for multiple cuts) because it only takes a couple seconds to add it and a hand saw can cut through a non-steel, weighted lanyard in the blink of an eye.
Leaving the stubs can be hazardous and is unnecessary. You saw how branches and gear get hung up on them ... just imagine slipping and landing on one ... plus you don't need them to stand on, thats what your spikes are for, and if you don't trust yourself on spikes you shouldn't be doing the removal, practice low and slow until you are comfortable on them and can trust your equipment (spikes are ONLY to be used on trees that are being removed, NEVER for pruning.

If you are going to start climbing you need to learn the different knots and how they are used so you can tie them in your sleep before you think about getting your feet off the ground. Practicing shouldn't be done when your life depends on it.

If you're climbing you need a climbing rope IMO, even if it's just to exit the tree (spiking down a tree is a pain) and to allow you to bail out of the tree in a hurry if you need to (cut into a hornets nest or your arm, or if the HO shows up with donuts =)

Sounds like you're on the right track, just because you saw a removal doesn't mean you are able to do one yourself but it doesn't mean you can start learning either ... keep learning, because you should never stop learning in this business!

 

[Zale]

If I understand, your friend spiked up 20-30' then started using his lanyard. This is not a good idea. You always want to be secured into the tree. Just spiking up could result in a fall if the spikes were to kick out. Your friend has some bad habits. Stay safe.

 

[jefflovstrom]

opcorn: Interesting.
Jeff

 

[Ruster22]

Thanks guys,

That all makes sense and confirms a bunch of my concerns.

 

[Ruster22]

...or if the HO shows up with donuts =)

The HO did come out and gave us some hot pockets :msp_smile:

But mine got cold cuz I threw on the spikes clipped a chunk of rope to my belt and messed around at the bottom of the tree while Dave was eating

 

[Downer]

I think i'll just hunker down and watch.

 

[no tree to big]

hmmm where to begin?

well don't leave stubs I left stubs a couple times now I leave no stubs, unless I absolutely need them for a rigging point, was the biggest pita ever even if you have to come down 10-20 feet once to unhang a branch that hung up its already cost you to much.

set a climbing line FIRST not LAST use a throw line if you need to set it high its a cheap investment to save your life
never climb with out being tied in twice when cutting even with a hand saw

and my favorite of the day " I had the 261 buried in the 24" maple ( I usually run a 20" B&C, but I only had an 18 on there) I grabbed the 460 and cut through my humboldt, stick twisted, snapped, and crushed a few (extra) saplings. Oh well." not OH well what if those saplings were trees the HO just spent 300 bucks a piece to have installed or a 20K hardscape? this shows you have WAY more to learn before you climb unsupervised by a pro if you cant handle a 24" tree with a 18" bar you need teachin what happens when you do that in a tree??? well you might take that limb right to the gut and this guy is not someone that you need teaching you you need someone who shows you the right way to do it...

 

[Carburetorless]

hmmm where to begin?

well don't leave stubs I left stubs a couple times now I leave no stubs, unless I absolutely need them for a rigging point, was the biggest pita ever even if you have to come down 10-20 feet once to unhang a branch that hung up its already cost you to much.

set a climbing line FIRST not LAST use a throw line if you need to set it high its a cheap investment to save your life
never climb with out being tied in twice when cutting even with a hand saw

and my favorite of the day " I had the 261 buried in the 24" maple ( I usually run a 20" B&C, but I only had an 18 on there) I grabbed the 460 and cut through my humboldt, stick twisted, snapped, and crushed a few (extra) saplings. Oh well." not OH well what if those saplings were trees the HO just spent 300 bucks a piece to have installed or a 20K hardscape? this shows you have WAY more to learn before you climb unsupervised by a pro if you cant handle a 24" tree with a 18" bar you need teachin what happens when you do that in a tree??? well you might take that limb right to the gut and this guy is not someone that you need teaching you you need someone who shows you the right way to do it...

Yep

If you're up in a tree and you let one twist like that it'll try to take the saw with it, you'll probably try to hang on to the saw, and if you've got stubs you get raked across them until the saw frees up.

Stubs hurt when you get dragged across them like that.

 

[RYNOMAGNUM]

WOW....Is this thread for real ???