My First XL-12

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Max

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Well I just got this the other day, put in fresh gas and it ran after 12 years of sitting in a garage. I am doing a carb kit later this week. The saw is 100%
original with very little use. The view through the exhaust port looks like new in there. Now for the dumb question...how do you remove the sprocket?
I tried to loosen the nut but it seemed to torque up the pull starter and I did not want to break any of that. What is the procedure to remove that?
And by any chance does anyone have any info on the saw other than Mike Acres, such as a owners manual? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
 
xl-12

I got an old XL-12 from my father in law that he found laying in the woods when he worked for one of the big timber outfits out here in Oregon. I had the sprocket replaced on it and they put on a new type, but it seems to me that at the time they replaced it, they spun the nut off with an air wrench. Before you try this, I would wait for some advice from somebody that knows what they are talking about.

I broke the original chain guard on it and one of the local shops had some off brand available that fit it like a glove. I took her out of the shop the other day and after some frustration, I got her running like the old days. :blob2:
 
Hi Max,
That's a nice looking saw! A piston stop is needed to lock crank movement. If you don't have a piston stop, one method that's been promoted as well as disapproved of its using a length of small rope, say same size as starter cord inserted through the spark plug hole. I usually remove the starter cover to prevent binding, but a neat rick has been presented to pull a length of the starter cord out prior to inserting the rope and then as you turn the nut on the clutch to bind the piston on the cord, there will be some slack in the starter rope.

The point to be careful that has been mentioned that the rope may protrude into a port and the piston could then cut it as it moves up. You may be tempted to try to use the flywheel as a stop, but be careful as you could break a fin or strip the key if the sprocket nut is very tight.

Again, nice looking XL-12!
Dan
 
I use a piece of 1/4" nylon rope (clothesline rope) and put the piston at BDC and feed in as much as I can, somewhere around 8 to 12" thru the sparkplug hole then carefully torque the nut until ithe crank stops. I f you're undoing the clutch, its a lefthand thread.
 
Thanks Marco.
I just took a good look at it and you a right. Putting in a plug stop at the side angle looks like I'm asking for trouble/snapping off the stop.

Rope it is!

Thanks guys.
 
im in need of an XL-12 IPL. im getting ready to slap some crank seals in my XL-12 thats now gutted and in a box.. going to be selling it once its going again.
 
Mange, you are great!
Thanks, that was just what I needed. The carb blow up is key for me rebuiling the carb tomorrow night. Again thanks and I am impressed by the knowledge and willingness of members to help each other here at
A.S. This place seems to be getting good again!

Thanks for everyones help.
 
I may be in the wrong forum to ask this but does anyone have a bumper spike for the x-12 they would be willing to sell?If so please let me know...I need one.
Thanks.
 
You can get them on E-Bay, brand new. Search for Homelite chainsaw.
 
Saw is 100% up and running.
Cool old saw ! Rebuilt carb, new fuel line, sharpened chain and put the old gal to some wood. Slow and steady wins the race with this one.

Was it just me or does running a hard nose bar feel different than running a sprocket nose bar? The XL-12 has a hard nose and it just seemed different than what I am used to.

Oh yeah another first...blasted myself in the eye with carb cleaner. Holy crap did that hurt!!! Live and learn...PPE needed even when the saws are shut off ! :rolleyes:
 

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