scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Would never happen on a Stihl! No air injection to go wrong lol
My new Husqvarna 359 is stuck!
- Thread starter saxart
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Would never happen on a Stihl! No air injection to go wrong lol
saxart
ArboristSite Lurker
Update
Well, here is a little update to my situation... Thanks for all of your suggestions.
I finally had a chance to look a little closer at the saw with a clear head. (too crabby the day it happened!)
Anyway, thanks for the advice on removing the muffler, as that does give a nice look into the cylinder.
The problem is that the piston comes up only to the very bottom of all the ports in the cylinder-jug, so there is not much to see in there, just the top of the piston and the inside of the jug.
I can see the carb (intake) ports, as well as the fuel injection ports and it appears as though the piston ring comes right up to the bottom of those ports and stops as if it's hooking on the bottom of one of these ports. I know that doesn't make sense, but that's right where the piston stops, when it's about 1/16" above the BOTTOM of those ports. Maybe that is a coincidence though.
Thanks for the advice about looking under the flywheel. I inspected that area real well and see nothing under it that loosened up and could cause this.
I also used a pen-light to inspect between all of the fins on the jug, and see nothing as far as cracks or damage on the outside of the jug. The inside of the jug still has a nice crosshatch pattern on it with no burning or scoring. It does have some light verticle marking on it, but nothing that looks dark or heavily scored.
I really doubt that this is failed crankshaft bearing simply because the rotation stops with a definate "thunk" sound in either direction, not a sense of binding. I checked for any "endplay" in the crankshaft and cannot get it to move horizontally through the bearings by lightly taping either end with a small rubber mallet.
Any other thoughts would are greatly appreciated. Thanks for staying focused on the problem at hand and not turning this into a Stihl vs Husky war. I already had the pleasure of picking up the saw from my dads place this morning (that's where we were doing the cutting) and when I pulled in the driveway he was cutting with his Stihl OV41. When he saw me pull in, he looked up and bliped the throttle a couple times as if to say, "See, mine still works!" :greenchainsaw:
(Jerk!) LOL!
Well, here is a little update to my situation... Thanks for all of your suggestions.
I finally had a chance to look a little closer at the saw with a clear head. (too crabby the day it happened!)
Anyway, thanks for the advice on removing the muffler, as that does give a nice look into the cylinder.
The problem is that the piston comes up only to the very bottom of all the ports in the cylinder-jug, so there is not much to see in there, just the top of the piston and the inside of the jug.
I can see the carb (intake) ports, as well as the fuel injection ports and it appears as though the piston ring comes right up to the bottom of those ports and stops as if it's hooking on the bottom of one of these ports. I know that doesn't make sense, but that's right where the piston stops, when it's about 1/16" above the BOTTOM of those ports. Maybe that is a coincidence though.
Thanks for the advice about looking under the flywheel. I inspected that area real well and see nothing under it that loosened up and could cause this.
I also used a pen-light to inspect between all of the fins on the jug, and see nothing as far as cracks or damage on the outside of the jug. The inside of the jug still has a nice crosshatch pattern on it with no burning or scoring. It does have some light verticle marking on it, but nothing that looks dark or heavily scored.
I really doubt that this is failed crankshaft bearing simply because the rotation stops with a definate "thunk" sound in either direction, not a sense of binding. I checked for any "endplay" in the crankshaft and cannot get it to move horizontally through the bearings by lightly taping either end with a small rubber mallet.
Any other thoughts would are greatly appreciated. Thanks for staying focused on the problem at hand and not turning this into a Stihl vs Husky war. I already had the pleasure of picking up the saw from my dads place this morning (that's where we were doing the cutting) and when I pulled in the driveway he was cutting with his Stihl OV41. When he saw me pull in, he looked up and bliped the throttle a couple times as if to say, "See, mine still works!" :greenchainsaw:
(Jerk!) LOL!
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, here is a little update to my situation... Thanks for all of your suggestions.
I finally had a chance to look a little closer at the saw with a clear head. (too crabby the day it happened!)
Anyway, thanks for the advice on removing the muffler, as that does give a nice look into the cylinder.
The problem is that the piston comes up only to the very bottom of all the ports in the cylinder-jug, so there is not much to see in there, just the top of the piston and the inside of the jug.
I can see the carb (intake) ports, as well as the fuel injection ports and it appears as though the piston ring comes right up to the bottom of those ports and stops as if it's hooking on the bottom of one of these ports. I know that doesn't make sense, but that's right where the piston stops, when it's about 1/16" above the BOTTOM of those ports. Maybe that is a coincidence though.
Thanks for the advice about looking under the flywheel. I inspected that area real well and see nothing under it that loosened up and could cause this.
I also used a pen-light to inspect between all of the fins on the jug, and see nothing as far as cracks or damage on the outside of the jug. The inside of the jug still has a nice crosshatch pattern on it with no burning or scoring. It does have some light verticle marking on it, but nothing that looks dark or heavily scored.
I really doubt that this is failed crankshaft bearing simply because the rotation stops with a definate "thunk" sound in either direction, not a sense of binding. I checked for any "endplay" in the crankshaft and cannot get it to move horizontally through the bearings by lightly taping either end with a small rubber mallet.
Any other thoughts would are greatly appreciated. Thanks for staying focused on the problem at hand and not turning this into a Stihl vs Husky war. I already had the pleasure of picking up the saw from my dads place this morning (that's where we were doing the cutting) and when I pulled in the driveway he was cutting with his Stihl OV41. When he saw me pull in, he looked up and bliped the throttle a couple times as if to say, "See, mine still works!" :greenchainsaw:
(Jerk!) LOL!
the skirt on your piston has probably fallen off and is catching on something...
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't there a 2 yr warranty for non-pro use on Husky's? Believe you said your wife purchased it around a year or so ago.
Take it back, let Husky fix it.
Take it back, let Husky fix it.
JT78
ArboristSite Guru
Im with bowtech let your dealer figure it out if it is under warranty then tell us what was actually wrong with the saw.
saxart
ArboristSite Lurker
Warranty
OK, now I've just added insult to injury in the form of "I feel old"....
This whole time I was also thinking "Warranty", but hesitated because it was an Ebay purchase.
I dug up the receipt and what seems like "just last year" (or maybe the year before) is actually 2 and a half years ago. The saw was ordered on 12/16/05!
Where the HECK does the time go?!??!?
Anyway, that puts me back in the driver's seat as far as getting this thing fixed.
OK, now I've just added insult to injury in the form of "I feel old"....
This whole time I was also thinking "Warranty", but hesitated because it was an Ebay purchase.
I dug up the receipt and what seems like "just last year" (or maybe the year before) is actually 2 and a half years ago. The saw was ordered on 12/16/05!
Where the HECK does the time go?!??!?
Anyway, that puts me back in the driver's seat as far as getting this thing fixed.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I am with the ring bind theory was the cylinder clean no scratches etc?
If it were me I would take the cylinder head off and see what the problem
is. Two saws in short period of time makes me think fuel but it could be
anything. Have you checked the coil gap I had a coil guts shake
loose and try to bind once?
Last edited:
saxart
ArboristSite Lurker
The plot thickens....
Well, the plot thickens....
I decided to tear into the saw. It obviously has no warranty left after 2 and a half years, so no loss that way, not to mention I was able to download the factory service PDF....
Following the manual, it took me all of about 3 minutes to get the cylinder jug off. Once I had the 4 bolts out, a quick tap with a rubber mallet loosened up the jug. The first thing I noticed is that it was nearly impossible to get the jug off the piston once it was free from the lower crankcase..........it was stuck! Finally I had to secure the body of the saw to the workbench, then I got the jug off after practicing my heavy lifting... At least I knew at this point where the problem was. Sigh........
Here is what I found:
First, this is a shot of the inside of the jug. The GREEN circle marks what was stopping the piston's motion. It's a fairly large "catch" that was hooking the piston ring. The red/orange arrow is marking the "compression release" valve port, but the BLUE circle is showing you all of the LARGE PITS IN THE SIDE OF THE JUG!!!!!!!! WTF???????
:jawdrop:
Here is another view....
The piston looks fine, as does the ring itself, but notice in this picture that the wrist-pin is pushed out? That's because THERE WAS NO C-CLIP HOLDING IT IN PLACE!!!! (I pushed it out with my finger to illustrate)
Finally, here is the top of the piston. Minor scratches are from dad and I trying to figure out what just happened to our previously running saw the other day and are only superficial.
So.....
If you look back at the first picture I posted, notice the cross-hatch is still in the jug. You can see it best right next to the green circle I put there, at about the 1 O'Clock position.
Since the piston and ring are still fine, part of me says I could probably just chamfer away the "catch" and reassemble everything, but what's up with these pits??????
Yes, I've seen this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46560&highlight=pitted+cylinder
Will Husqvarna stand behind this and send me a replacement jug, or will I just get the run-around from them on this? If I'm on my own, should I buy a replacement jug, or do you think I'm good with this one with a good chamfer?
I'm trying to remain positive about this and think of it as a win-win.... Either I fix it myself for free, or they send me another jug with no pits. LOL!
Well, the plot thickens....
I decided to tear into the saw. It obviously has no warranty left after 2 and a half years, so no loss that way, not to mention I was able to download the factory service PDF....
Following the manual, it took me all of about 3 minutes to get the cylinder jug off. Once I had the 4 bolts out, a quick tap with a rubber mallet loosened up the jug. The first thing I noticed is that it was nearly impossible to get the jug off the piston once it was free from the lower crankcase..........it was stuck! Finally I had to secure the body of the saw to the workbench, then I got the jug off after practicing my heavy lifting... At least I knew at this point where the problem was. Sigh........
Here is what I found:
First, this is a shot of the inside of the jug. The GREEN circle marks what was stopping the piston's motion. It's a fairly large "catch" that was hooking the piston ring. The red/orange arrow is marking the "compression release" valve port, but the BLUE circle is showing you all of the LARGE PITS IN THE SIDE OF THE JUG!!!!!!!! WTF???????
:jawdrop:
Here is another view....
The piston looks fine, as does the ring itself, but notice in this picture that the wrist-pin is pushed out? That's because THERE WAS NO C-CLIP HOLDING IT IN PLACE!!!! (I pushed it out with my finger to illustrate)
Finally, here is the top of the piston. Minor scratches are from dad and I trying to figure out what just happened to our previously running saw the other day and are only superficial.
So.....
If you look back at the first picture I posted, notice the cross-hatch is still in the jug. You can see it best right next to the green circle I put there, at about the 1 O'Clock position.
Since the piston and ring are still fine, part of me says I could probably just chamfer away the "catch" and reassemble everything, but what's up with these pits??????
Yes, I've seen this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=46560&highlight=pitted+cylinder
Will Husqvarna stand behind this and send me a replacement jug, or will I just get the run-around from them on this? If I'm on my own, should I buy a replacement jug, or do you think I'm good with this one with a good chamfer?
I'm trying to remain positive about this and think of it as a win-win.... Either I fix it myself for free, or they send me another jug with no pits. LOL!
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
You could put it back together and run it till it quits then put another piston and cylinder on it.
But first you need to find out where that cir clip went and of course put anther one in.
Imo that port looks way too flat and is asking for a ring stick condition.
Be carfull radiusing the port, you don't want to get it close enough to the top of the piston for air to get past it. Also I would clean up all that ugly mold flashing while I was at it. Husky should be ashamed for sending out a cylinder looking like that. But they are not the only ones who have sent out some ugly stuff.
But first you need to find out where that cir clip went and of course put anther one in.
Imo that port looks way too flat and is asking for a ring stick condition.
Be carfull radiusing the port, you don't want to get it close enough to the top of the piston for air to get past it. Also I would clean up all that ugly mold flashing while I was at it. Husky should be ashamed for sending out a cylinder looking like that. But they are not the only ones who have sent out some ugly stuff.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
ive seen many circlips jump, all because the saw was over-revving. repiar it and re tune
The Lorax
ArboristSite Guru
That cylinder looks like new inside.
I would be tempted to clean the ugly mould flashing away with a file and see if you can dress the edge of that catch.
Is the missing circlip in the muffler or maybe inside the crankcase?
I would make strenuous efforts to see if I could locate that clip.
It looks like what happened is the circlip fell out and the wristpin has slipped out caught the edge of the transfer causing the catch, then the ring has caught it as it came up.
Find the circlip or any rebuild will be jeopardised.
I would be tempted to clean the ugly mould flashing away with a file and see if you can dress the edge of that catch.
Is the missing circlip in the muffler or maybe inside the crankcase?
I would make strenuous efforts to see if I could locate that clip.
It looks like what happened is the circlip fell out and the wristpin has slipped out caught the edge of the transfer causing the catch, then the ring has caught it as it came up.
Find the circlip or any rebuild will be jeopardised.
Or it didn't get installed right at the factory. When installing put the ends either up or down, not to the sides. Steve
saxart
ArboristSite Lurker
Here's a twist after some further investigation............
The wrist pin is missing BOTH C-Clips!!!
I checked the crankcase once already for these clips and couldn't find them. I'll check again. They're NOT in the muffler....
The wrist pin is missing BOTH C-Clips!!!
I checked the crankcase once already for these clips and couldn't find them. I'll check again. They're NOT in the muffler....
You have to "clean" the scratch below the transfer by using sandpaper,probably will be ok.The scratch was made probably by a circlip,i presume,he has to be somewhere.And use a dremel or a file to remove the"bump" created by the pin.Should be ok to rebuild after .Pits are Ok,dont worry about that.
PES+
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sure looks like
The top of the piston shows a track of at least one of the clips from the transfer area to the exhaust.
Check inside the muffler can with a small magnet as they can stick inside the can.
The only question I would have is how deep is the groove that goes from the top of the transfer inlet to the transfer port outlet just to the left of the bump apparently made by the pin catching the top of the transfer port inlet.
(seen in the second pic)
The picture could very well be making it look worse than it is.
The top of the piston shows a track of at least one of the clips from the transfer area to the exhaust.
Check inside the muffler can with a small magnet as they can stick inside the can.
The only question I would have is how deep is the groove that goes from the top of the transfer inlet to the transfer port outlet just to the left of the bump apparently made by the pin catching the top of the transfer port inlet.
(seen in the second pic)
The picture could very well be making it look worse than it is.
slabmaster
ArboristSite Guru
I told you what the problem was! Thread #14.HUsky is good for doing that.It's not the first time i've seen it.There quality control really sucks.
Last edited:
Dress the edge of the tranfer port and you're good to go with only a new base gasket and a couple c-clips. The pits look normal to me. The scratch is below the exhaust roof, so I don't see it greatly affecting performance. Oh, I'd wet sand the groove as well just to make sure it's smooth.
