Need advice on Husqvarna 350 rebuild

[DanH]

Hi, all,

I've new here and have been reading a lot of posts from years past regarding rebuilding Husqvarna 350s and the like. It seems that I burned mine up this past week. It may have run lean, but the air filter was loose when I pulled the top, so it might have choked on some dirt. Anyway, the piston and cylinder are scored, mostly on the exhaust side, but slightly on the intake as well.

I'm not a mechanic, but I fix most of my mechanical problems. I talked to a local repair shop and was told that the saw wasn't worth fixing, quoting about $265 to fix it. He told me I could take my chances with the internet, so I started looking. I am kind of relieved to see that I can buy a cylinder/piston kit for as low as $25 bucks. However, it looks like there is a lot of talk about modding or upgrading and I can't find anything recent about the best kits.

So, with that said, I have a couple of questions:

1. What would be the easiest option to get this saw up and running? I'd rather not throw good money at cheap junk, but I don't feel like I need the best money can buy either.

2. What would be the best option for putting this saw back together (without having to do any machine work or buying any extra parts such as different carburetors, etc.) that would give me a better saw in the long run?

I would like to keep my budget under $100 if possible. I also need to replace the sprocket, and figure out why the bar oil is leaking out, so I'd rather not spend too much. I don't know much about timing, but if I need to figure that out, I will try to.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

 

[jakethesnake]

It's gonna be tough to do it right for under 100 the meteor kit is 120 if I was goin aftermarket I think that's what I'd get tear the saw down and see if the cylinder can be saved first

 

[jakethesnake]

Just a thought I believe the 346xp piston cylinder bolts right on 350 is a good saw fix it for sure I feel like you should be getting lots of input on this one

 

[Full Chisel]

Get a 346 P&C kit from @spike60...Husqvarna slashed their prices on top end kits after Jan. 1st. Aftermarket kits are hit or miss and usually lower on power unless you plan to port them. The OEM 346 top end will turn it into a screamer. Look up 350 rebuild threads here...plenty of them to read over.

 

[Mattyo]

Here is the whole job start to finish.....5 parts

 

[Mattyo]

Cylinder options

 

[06switchback]

I picked up a blown up 350 for cheap and put a piston and cylinder kit in it from hl supply I know that it's cheap Chinese parts but it was on sale for $14.99 so I tried it that was about a year ago it's still running great

I have more money in the bar and chain than I do in the rest of that saw

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

 

[Landmark]

Are you sure the 350cylinder is toast? I would try to clean it up and install a 353 piston. Set the squish and do a MM and you will be pleased with the increase in power. Plus you will do this for around 40-50 bucks.

 

[DanH]

Thanks to everyone so far. I am not sure it is toast, but it does seem pretty much scored up. I will see if it is just aluminum in the cylinder. If I just replace the piston, do I have to mess with the timing? I assume I will if I replace both piston and cylinder. I will have to research that and see if it is something I can figure out. Also, the Meteor piston kits I see seem to fit the 350 and 353. Is that the one to get?

Thanks, Dan

 

[Mattyo]

Watch my vids. You will get more familiar with what cylinder is what. If you have the oem 45mm cylinder with the removable transfer covers ....then the meteor 45mm will be perfect.

If your oem cylinder doesn't clean up...then you can either get the super cheap stuff on ebay....44mm piston and cylinder for $40 or my recommendation is either the oem 346xp cylinder from spike60....or the hyway big bore kit from Hlsupply. ..

No you don't have to mess with timing. Any of these kits will bolt right up.

You do need a metal intake clamp...and likely new base gasket and probably a few other things while you are in there. My advice ...don't cheap out. ...these saws really rock when they are rebuilt well and have the kinks worked out.

 

[DanH]

OK, I'm going to go with the 246xp kit. I think the cylinder can be salvaged, but it seems that for a little more than I wanted to spend, I can have even a better saw. What's the best way to remove the piston pin without any specific tool? I pulled the circlips, but it seems that it is a pretty tight fit.

Thanks, Dan

 

[svk]

There are a few small modifications necessary if you go the 346 route. I believe you need to slightly shorten the cylinder bolts and a small bit of metal needs to be removed from the outside of the jug.

There's a built thread or ten on here doing just that. Follow their advice.

 

[BGE541]

Just did a build and ran it today. Open port jug, ported, flat top, muffler mod, ignition advance great little runner now.

 

[Mattyo]

OK, I'm going to go with the 246xp kit. I think the cylinder can be salvaged, but it seems that for a little more than I wanted to spend, I can have even a better saw. What's the best way to remove the piston pin without any specific tool? I pulled the circlips, but it seems that it is a pretty tight fit.

Thanks, Dan

It's tight. ..pb blaster and a large Allen ...and a hammer. Bang it out. It will go. Just try not to put lateral pressure on the connecting rod

Shorter cylinder bolts maybe....check that they don't bottom

Check flywheel clearance against the jug, and jug clearance against the clutch side of the plastic case. sometimes you need to dremel the case itself a bit to get the width. Chubby transfer tunnels

 

[BGE541]

I have an OEM cyl that should clean up if you'd like it... For a 350. Just posted a video of a 350 I did today, a little more aggressive port #s. Thanks for all your help @Mattyo

 

[Mattyo]

Welcome!

 

[DanH]

Got my saw assembled today! Bob hooked me up with a new 346 cylinder and piston. It went together fairly well. I think there is an issue with the oiler as it seems to be pouring out the front instead of in the bar channel but I will check It out later. Is there anything I should go to break it in properly? I did run it for a bit and it seemed more powerful but didn't cut noticeably faster. I am going to take it to a sHop and check the compression.

Thanks to all of you for your help!!

Dan

 

[jakethesnake]

Run the piss outa it that seat the rings proper burry in wood if you can and work the saw

 

[Mattyo]

won't cut any faster than the old one if the chain is just as bad as it was before hehe

give it time to break in. what size bar are you running? what chain?