Need help in purchasing a new chainsaw

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semi

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I recently broke my Poulan chainsaw. I have used it for over 3 years in pretty tough conditions. We are clearing a lot and cutting lots of firewood. I am now in the market for a better chainsaw and i need some advice.

I know very little about chainsaws and was turned to this forum for help by a friend. I do know i would like the capacity for an 18" chain due to the diameters of some of the trees i am cutting.

I have about $300 to spend and want to get the best for my money. I have been looking at Stihl, Husky and echo. Each dealer tells me theirs is the best. My new chainsaw should do the following.

1. be able to cut down tree's, PINE, POPPEL, etc.. with strength. I would like some power that would be noticably different from my 1hp Poulan wild thing. (45cc class ? perhaps)

2. I would like this saw to be reliable and last for years

3. Ergonomically friendly. Something i can use all day to cut up wood.

4. priced somewhere around what i stated above.

I have had some minor experience with Huscavarna (spelling), as we purchased one from a local Farm And Fleet. We returned it promptly as it was garbage. It took about 20 pulls to start, after it got hot it lost all power. I am hoping this was just a fluke but need some opinions. I need to purchase a saw pretty quickly as i have some timber to cut up. If you can help, i appreciate it.
 
Stihl , Husky and echo are all good saws have you looked into the dolmar range at all as they also have some nice saws. if i were going for a husqvarna I would go for a 350 or one of the xp series saws
 
Dolmar PS540 would be a good fit. In your price range. Very comfortable to use. One of the easiest starting saws out there. Very forgiving to use for a novice, with broad power. You will find a lot of good saws in that price/displacement. Probably the most competitive size next to a 70cc saw.

Husqvarna 350, 353, Stihl 025, Solo 650 (or 651SP), Echo CS-520, would all be saws to look at.

With the Dolmar you get a professionally built saw with magnesium cases for a consumer saw price. The trade of is in the controls and features. Not quite up to the latest standards (combined controls, side chain tensioner, outboard sprocket, air injection or similar air filtration, etc) as it is an 80's design. But it has been around long enough it has proven very durable.
 
semi said:
......I have had some minor experience with Huscavarna (spelling), as we purchased one from a local Farm And Fleet. We returned it promptly as it was garbage. It took about 20 pulls to start, after it got hot it lost all power. I am hoping this was just a fluke but need some opinions. I need to purchase a saw pretty quickly as i have some timber to cut up. If you can help, i appreciate it.
No Husky should act like that, and I think you did the right thing returning it. I would guess that it was a 1xx-series saw, which are made by Poulan and not comparable in quality to the Swedish made 3xx-series Huskys.
You seem like a perfect candidate for a Husky 353, since it is the least expencive pro quality saw on the market, and won't violate your budget by much.....
 
I agree with SawTroll. The 353 would be a good choice on the Husky side. On the Stihl side you might want to look at the 250 or 260. Similar weight and hp. I beleive the 260 is the professional model. The 353 and 260 will be a little above the $300 mark though. If you must stay at $300 then maybe the Husky 350.
 
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Give Husqvarna another try

From the cutting conditions you describe, I would recommend a Husqvarna like my model 257. It will be more powerful than the Poulan you broke, but still fairly light. The Husqvarna 55 Rancher is about the same saw, but I'm not sure what model has replaced the 257 since their model i.d. system has changed. I'm guessing the 350 may be the newer version.
 
What's wrong with Shindaiwa?

I picked up an as new Shindaiwa 488 on e-Bay for $200 bucks plus another $38 for shipping. It is light, starts easily, and has plenty of power. My old Shindaiwa 500 is still running strong as well, but I couldn't pass up a deal. Admittedly the new Shindaiwa has a whole bunch of plastic where the old one was metal, but I've been told most of the saws in this class have gone that route to keep down the weight. You find an item with a seller with lots of positive feedback and you should be ok.
 
Gearhead1 said:
....but I'm not sure what model has replaced the 257 since their model i.d. system has changed.
As I see it, the 359 is the replacement for the 257.
357xp replaced the 254xp.
 
asb151 said:
I agree with SawTroll. The 353 would be a good choice on the Husky side. On the Stihl side you might want to look at the 250 or 260.
The 250 is a homeowner saw with plastic crank, and not in the same league as 353 and 260.
The 250 is more in line with husky 345 and 350, but imo. those are much nicer saws...
 
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SawTroll said:
The 250 is a homeowner saw with plastic crank, and not in the same leage as 353 and 260.
The 250 is more in line with husky 345 and 350, but imo. those are much nicer saws...

I completely agree the 250 is not in the same class as the 353 and 260. Just mentioned it as an option for him to stay close to his $300 target. I probably didn't make that clear. The other saws will cost him more. Lots of choices in this range.
 
Semi, this is a broken record on this board, but since you are gonne be felling, not just bucking, and you said you don't have much saw experience, get yourself some information on proper technique. Just cutting firewood can get you hurt quickly. Start dropping trees and that opportunity goes up dramatically.
 
Blowdown1 said:
Semi, this is a broken record on this board, but since you are gonne be felling, not just bucking, and you said you don't have much saw experience, get yourself some information on proper technique. Just cutting firewood can get you hurt quickly. Start dropping trees and that opportunity goes up dramatically.

Douglas Dent's book was suggested to me on here and it is well worth reading for ANYONE who will be felling trees.

http://www.ddouglasdent.com/dent_books.htm
 
you know, i don't like dropping tree's. In fact i hate it. I got hurt doing it once as a branch broke off while the tree was falling and hit me in the head.

Any advice on how to cut down tree's effectively would be helpful.
 
semi said:
Any advice on how to cut down tree's effectively would be helpful.

Beyond what's already been discussed in other threads on here (do a search), always wear a hard hat, and take extra precautions on dead trees, as they're often less predictable and more difficult and dangerous than live trees.

Jeff
 
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