Hi, just picked up a white top 50 in really nice condition, that sat for many years I think. It runs nice, but I had trouble starting it cuz the high idle lever in the handle won't seem to stay in position. Does anyone in the brain trust have experience with this issue? thanks
Need Help! white top husqvarna 50 high idle position problem
- Thread starter david newbie
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
come on! someone here has to be smarter than me (. I hope..............)
Your question doesn’t make sense.’high idle lever’?
do you mean the throttle lock? That’s only used for cold starts and kicks down as soon as you pull the trigger…by design.
any old saw that has been sitting for years needs a carb rebuild at a minimum.
Exactly! I guess throttle lock is the correct term, although it appears to be all one piece with the operator presence lever. Maybe I better post a picture later
It does start fairly well when warm. when its cold I have to find some way to hold the throttle trigger down while I pull, such as a piece of tape or wire
https://www.barrettsmallengine.com/p/01-1983-husqvarna-50-rancher-chainsaw.html?m=1
Probably a broken trigger or spring
Take it apart and figure out what parts you need. I may have them.
Probably a broken trigger or spring
Take it apart and figure out what parts you need. I may have them.
got it figured out, its a very fussy throttle lock. However, it's got a failing kill switch and seems to be an odd one. Just a single tab to attach the wire to, and it doesn't seem to have an effective ground. Anyone seen on like this or know a part number?
might have that...pic from the front? looks like a 2 pole with one ripped off. If the case is metal you can use the newer style that grounds to the case.
oops, plastic tank...need the 2 pole type...all out of those, used my last on a 44 I'm rebuilding
pt# 501 63 38-01 might be some on ebay
wait...does that go into the case or the tank? if the case the new style can be used...just need to drill/tap a 4mm hole
on the 44 it is into the plastic so has to be 2-pole
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2339784896...QW97Wi2w9HILKmsOF1ObKdmzI=|tkp:Bk9SR-bLr5zFYg
oops, plastic tank...need the 2 pole type...all out of those, used my last on a 44 I'm rebuilding
pt# 501 63 38-01 might be some on ebay
wait...does that go into the case or the tank? if the case the new style can be used...just need to drill/tap a 4mm hole
on the 44 it is into the plastic so has to be 2-pole
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2339784896...QW97Wi2w9HILKmsOF1ObKdmzI=|tkp:Bk9SR-bLr5zFYg
thanks, I have an aftermarket one with the 2 tabs, think I will end up attaching a second wire and grounding it to a screw on the case. Thanks again for your help
hmm, the ipl only shows one wire. the ignition must ground at the coil. may not need a 2-pole after all.
hard to figure out without being able to see one
how was that one attached? snap in or via a screw?
is this what you have? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3549837053...vJSJdgXdrYk7vDXMWJIqdHiUw=|tkp:Bk9SR6ay35_FYg
looks like it grounds directly to the case so a newer switch should work...just drill a hole.
mine was just like that. I looked at it running and sparks were flying form the metal tabs on the sides of the switch!
My wife would have named it Sparky
it seems the original switch was replaced with the newer single pole.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2745781959...dFnX/e0lSuYOuYt6xS4lXaVMZQ==|tkp:BFBMmvWXs8Vi
On some race saws they use a plastic zip tie to hold the throttle open for starts, you could leave one of those on the handle for cold starts, it's not really in the way while running the saw.
Figure out what trigger parts need replacing and post the pt#s
I have all sorts of trigger parts...just need pt#s to see if any of them work.
I have all sorts of trigger parts...just need pt#s to see if any of them work.
