Need help with Stihl 011

[heimannm]

I need some help with an 011 that came in. Owner said he was adjusting the carburetor and it just locked up...I got it opened up and found the rivets had failed and turned the reeds loose. The reeds in turned knocked the bearings out of the rod on the crankshaft.



For starters, I am looking for an IPL so I can search by part numbers. As a minimum it will take some gaskets, a piston, the reed plate, and possibly and anti-vibe mount or two. I can't see any kind of retainer used to hold the bearings in place, how it this assembled with the one piece rod?

Mark

 

[jltrent]

I would call that one a parts saw as you will get more in it than it is worth. Getting those big end rod needle bearings in is a pita. I have used grease and bedded them in and was able to get them back. Also I have used silicone and after i got them back used carb cleaner and dissolved the silicon as i did an 015 last week like that.

 

[heimannm]

The owner is willing to put up to $200 in this saw...and my labor is cheap. Is it possible to just press the bearings back in place some how?

Mark

 

[Wood Doctor]

Mark, here's the IPL:

 

[Wood Doctor]

The Service manual file is too large for me to upload. Ray or Charlie might have a smaller file.

 

[rupedoggy]

You tilt the rod and slide the bearings in. At one time Stihl had a tool that held them in place as you assembled the saw. Now, as said heavy grease and keep the rod centered as you assemble. Takes a couple of tries but you will get it.

 

[heimannm]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help.

Mark

 

[Modifiedmark]

You tilt the rod and slide the bearings in. At one time Stihl had a tool that held them in place as you assembled the saw. Now, as said heavy grease and keep the rod centered as you assemble. Takes a couple of tries but you will get it.

Yep thats it. Chances are when he took it apart the rod tilted and they fell out. The Poulan micros are like that also. I learned my lesson quickly when taking the jug off to make sure the rod stays strait then I zip tie it to the crank counter weight to hold it there.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Mark, is that one a top handle or rear handle? I have a rear handle in very nice condition. Doesn't run, and I've never pulled it apart. Has good compression. Comes with a case even. If you want it for parts, it'd be very cheap.

 

[ray benson]

I need some help with an 011 that came in. Owner said he was adjusting the carburetor and it just locked up...I got it opened up and found the rivets had failed and turned the reeds loose. The reeds in turned knocked the bearings out of the rod on the crankshaft.

View attachment 861464

For starters, I am looking for an IPL so I can search by part numbers. As a minimum it will take some gaskets, a piston, the reed plate, and possibly and anti-vibe mount or two. I can't see any kind of retainer used to hold the bearings in place, how it this assembled with the one piece rod?

Mark

The Service manual file is too large for me to upload. Ray or Charlie might have a smaller file.

Sent service manual link to Mark. Manual is 15.8 meg.

 

[HarleyT]

Mark, here's the IPL:

I'll put this on the "Good Stihl Info" thread!!

 

[67L36Driver]

I used a strip of sheet copper and a wide rubber band to load the rollers on the rod journal.

Once you have the rod assembled to the crank, keep it to BDC to prevent the rod sliding over.

Locked in position with a chain nose vice grip.

 

[67L36Driver]

The only one of that series worth spit is the 012.

Sooooo many better ones out there.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I used a strip of sheet copper and a wide rubber band to load the rollers on the rod journal.

Once you have the rod assembled to the crank, keep it to BDC to prevent the rod sliding over.

Locked in position with a chain nose vice grip.

Your pretty resourceful Carl. Thats a pretty good way to do it. I seem to do everything the hard way.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The only one of that series worth spit is the 012.

Sooooo many better ones out there.

I have to agree with that as well and I'm not sure about the 012. It seems if the owner of the saw Mark has is willing to spend 2 bills on it, it must have some sentimental value and that would be the only reason I would mess with one now days.

 

[67L36Driver]

Also, the oil pump diaphragm/plunger is NLA. I got the last one Jack Horners Supply had on the shelf two years ago.