you could find some deal off ebay or a discount chain store ,but dealer support makes all the difference knowing they have the supplies and parts service als o is good peace of mind .a 290 farm boss with a full chiselchain and 18inch bar (id do a muffler mod on it too..really wakes them up )will do everything you could want in a firewood saw ,enough zip to take down most medium/large sized trees and still fairly agile to limb wit h without breaking your back .plus its like 370$ which isnt bad for a quality saw that will likely last over 20 years
Need Mid-Range Saw Advice
- Thread starter Islander
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Henry G.
ArboristSite Guru
Unless your idea of small saw is something for trimming tree branches like a 200t I think a mid range saw is 70cc.
There is no replacement for displacement.
372XP.
BUT, I can say a 357XP is a damn good saw, even stock. Pulls a 20" bar very nicely
There is no replacement for displacement.
372XP.
BUT, I can say a 357XP is a damn good saw, even stock. Pulls a 20" bar very nicely
Makita 510 bar
Just some info on the Makia 510 /Dolmar . The bar's will NOT interchange between the 510and 5100 with the 6401. The 510 /5100 have the small mount and the 6401 a large mount that will interchange with the Husky large mount among others. Also the 510 is aluminum crankcase versus magnesium for the 5100, 510 has spur 5100 rim drive . I have both but the 6401
will very soon become 84 Bailey's BB:chainsaw.I don't have any experience with the Stihls. What ever You get for the most part spend money on GOOD chains to go with it , not some of the worthless anti kickback crap:censored: Good Luck!
Just some info on the Makia 510 /Dolmar . The bar's will NOT interchange between the 510and 5100 with the 6401. The 510 /5100 have the small mount and the 6401 a large mount that will interchange with the Husky large mount among others. Also the 510 is aluminum crankcase versus magnesium for the 5100, 510 has spur 5100 rim drive . I have both but the 6401
will very soon become 84 Bailey's BB:chainsaw.I don't have any experience with the Stihls. What ever You get for the most part spend money on GOOD chains to go with it , not some of the worthless anti kickback crap:censored: Good Luck!
Last edited:
Islander
ArboristSite Operative
510 vs 5100s comparison helpful
That's helpful info on the 510 vs. 5100s. Alum vs. mag explains the weight difference.
Didn't know about the Spur vs. Rim drive...that seems like kind of a big difference. I assume same on the Makita version?
The bars not swapping out isn't a big deal I guess...I have a 20" and 24" (for milling) for the 6401, and both are too big for a 5100s anyway...but good to know.
Are the small mount bars narrower? As cheesy as it is, I like the narrow bar on my Poulin saw when cutting branches.
I'm still on the fence with the dealer issue...going to visit a Stihl dealer and fondle a 260 and 270 later this week...
But I really want a 5100s...just need to deal with a long drive or shipment.
Thanks for everyone's advice...most appreciated.
That's helpful info on the 510 vs. 5100s. Alum vs. mag explains the weight difference.
Didn't know about the Spur vs. Rim drive...that seems like kind of a big difference. I assume same on the Makita version?
The bars not swapping out isn't a big deal I guess...I have a 20" and 24" (for milling) for the 6401, and both are too big for a 5100s anyway...but good to know.
Are the small mount bars narrower? As cheesy as it is, I like the narrow bar on my Poulin saw when cutting branches.
I'm still on the fence with the dealer issue...going to visit a Stihl dealer and fondle a 260 and 270 later this week...
But I really want a 5100s...just need to deal with a long drive or shipment.
Thanks for everyone's advice...most appreciated.
510 bars
The bars for the 510 are just a little bit narrower, not much,I bought the 510 knowing I wouldn't have dealer support. I wish I would have bought the 5100 knowing what I know now. I did spend the the money saved on PPE, chaps and head gear, also a very worth while investment. The Poulan 330 has been getting good reviews here also. Some are changing out bar and chain on it. It seems that might be another way to go , cost $200.00 at TSC. As far as I know the 5100 can only be had from a dealer, the 510 from different sources on-line, Makita owns Dolmar so the 510 is the same, just different colors.
The bars for the 510 are just a little bit narrower, not much,I bought the 510 knowing I wouldn't have dealer support. I wish I would have bought the 5100 knowing what I know now. I did spend the the money saved on PPE, chaps and head gear, also a very worth while investment. The Poulan 330 has been getting good reviews here also. Some are changing out bar and chain on it. It seems that might be another way to go , cost $200.00 at TSC. As far as I know the 5100 can only be had from a dealer, the 510 from different sources on-line, Makita owns Dolmar so the 510 is the same, just different colors.
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
Makita 510 is the same as the 510 Dolmar, there is no Makita equivalent to the 5100.
Spur vs rim drive is not a huge deal for a weekend cutter that may need a new sprocket every couple years, vs a logger's saw that runs every day and may wear out a sprocket in a month.
In my opinion, (although there are probably some better ones out there), the .365 (3/8 low profile) and .325 bar sizes come with the handicap of being hard to get a good chain for, most is all safety chain. I got the 3/8 (full size) bar on my 5100 for this reason. The 5100 has plenty of oomph to pull full grown chain, and "the good stuff" is easier to get.
If you get the 5100, you won't be disappointed!
Islander
ArboristSite Operative
New 5100s This Weekend
Thanks for the saw advice everyone...
I picked up a new non-cat 5100s 18" bar and 3/8" chain this weekend. Had to drive down to Albany this weekend, and a primo Dolmar dealer was on the way...
Bought it from AS sponsor Cutting Edge near Saratoga, NY. They are 2+ hours drive (which I make a few times/year anyway), but I'm glad I went with them.
CuttingScott and 166 are regular contributors here, and that's makes it all the more right to buy from them. I've learned a lot from their posts, so I'm happy to give them some business.
Cutting Edge is a chainsaw dealer like you read about. Saws everywhere, and genuine care in their service...
Case in point: As I was leaving with my new saw, Scott was heading out back -- in the rain -- to test a customer's saw he just tuned-up in wood.
In contrast, the Stihl dealer I visited Friday didn't have a stick of wood anywhere around their shop.
Cutting Edge keeps a big pile out back.
Steve warmed up and tuned the mixture on my saw with a Tach, and helped me understand the fine points. Spent over a 1/2 hour with me, and was happy to do it.
A great price on the saw, and a nice discount on consumables, and a saw setup right...that makes happy customers.
Seems like a nice saw so far...only got 1.5 tanks through it yesterday on some small Ash trees to break it in. It runs great, cuts fast and smooth, and feels a lot more agile than my 6401.
Will report back as it breaks in...although I need frozen ground before I can have some real fun with the bigger stuff out in the Back 9...
Thanks for the saw advice everyone...
I picked up a new non-cat 5100s 18" bar and 3/8" chain this weekend. Had to drive down to Albany this weekend, and a primo Dolmar dealer was on the way...
Bought it from AS sponsor Cutting Edge near Saratoga, NY. They are 2+ hours drive (which I make a few times/year anyway), but I'm glad I went with them.
CuttingScott and 166 are regular contributors here, and that's makes it all the more right to buy from them. I've learned a lot from their posts, so I'm happy to give them some business.
Cutting Edge is a chainsaw dealer like you read about. Saws everywhere, and genuine care in their service...
Case in point: As I was leaving with my new saw, Scott was heading out back -- in the rain -- to test a customer's saw he just tuned-up in wood.
In contrast, the Stihl dealer I visited Friday didn't have a stick of wood anywhere around their shop.
Cutting Edge keeps a big pile out back.
Steve warmed up and tuned the mixture on my saw with a Tach, and helped me understand the fine points. Spent over a 1/2 hour with me, and was happy to do it.
A great price on the saw, and a nice discount on consumables, and a saw setup right...that makes happy customers.
Seems like a nice saw so far...only got 1.5 tanks through it yesterday on some small Ash trees to break it in. It runs great, cuts fast and smooth, and feels a lot more agile than my 6401.
Will report back as it breaks in...although I need frozen ground before I can have some real fun with the bigger stuff out in the Back 9...
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
You made a wise choice.Since buying my 5100 back in Aug my larger saws are seeing a lot less use.Its just a fun saw to use and keeps getting stronger.
flyfshrmn
ArboristSite Lurker
woodlot saws
Since you're not cutting really big stuff and have a large enough saw already for anything that's big, I would consider any of the newer Husky or Stihl pro saws and get saws that will take multiple bar lengths, 12-14-16, or 14-16-18 and the appropriate chains. The most important part of the cutting is the upkeep and maintenance of your saws and chains and buying proper chains. Don't buy low kickback chipper or low kickback semi-chisel chains. They're slow, difficult to sharpen beyond a certain point and the additional safety factor is negligible for an experienced cutter who uses the saw properly. Buy aggressive semi-chisel chains and keep them sharp and make sure to file the depth guides as the cutters are used up. The most common problem I find when cutters are complaining about their saws is that the teeth have been sharpened without filing the guides. It doesn't matter how sharp the cutters are if they can't get into the wood. Most saw shops will not file the guides when they sharpen chains or will charge you extra if you request it. Learn to do your own sharpening and filing and touch up your chains frequently during use. When you cut, set up the saws with the proper chain and bar for the size you're cutting. A good pro saw with a sharp chain will cut anything up to the bar length without trouble. Brand is mostly personal preference and experience. I have used and owned many Homelite, Stihl, and Husky saws and prefer the Stihls, but the newer Husky saws are as good or better, appear more fuel efficient, but have more minor mechanical problems. My one real gripe with Husky is that if you throw a chain, a not uncommon occurrence when limbing in heavy brush, the drive teeth on the Husky saws always seem to get damaged, and that doesn't happen with my Stihl saws.
:chainsawguy:
Since you're not cutting really big stuff and have a large enough saw already for anything that's big, I would consider any of the newer Husky or Stihl pro saws and get saws that will take multiple bar lengths, 12-14-16, or 14-16-18 and the appropriate chains. The most important part of the cutting is the upkeep and maintenance of your saws and chains and buying proper chains. Don't buy low kickback chipper or low kickback semi-chisel chains. They're slow, difficult to sharpen beyond a certain point and the additional safety factor is negligible for an experienced cutter who uses the saw properly. Buy aggressive semi-chisel chains and keep them sharp and make sure to file the depth guides as the cutters are used up. The most common problem I find when cutters are complaining about their saws is that the teeth have been sharpened without filing the guides. It doesn't matter how sharp the cutters are if they can't get into the wood. Most saw shops will not file the guides when they sharpen chains or will charge you extra if you request it. Learn to do your own sharpening and filing and touch up your chains frequently during use. When you cut, set up the saws with the proper chain and bar for the size you're cutting. A good pro saw with a sharp chain will cut anything up to the bar length without trouble. Brand is mostly personal preference and experience. I have used and owned many Homelite, Stihl, and Husky saws and prefer the Stihls, but the newer Husky saws are as good or better, appear more fuel efficient, but have more minor mechanical problems. My one real gripe with Husky is that if you throw a chain, a not uncommon occurrence when limbing in heavy brush, the drive teeth on the Husky saws always seem to get damaged, and that doesn't happen with my Stihl saws.
:chainsawguy:
Henry G.
ArboristSite Guru
Never heard of Huskys doing such a thing, throwing chains for no reason or getting damaged doing so. Got any links to such events? Would like to read them.
flyfshrmn
ArboristSite Lurker
throwing chains
A saw never throws a chain for no reason and it's usually avoidable if you pay attention and keep the chains properly tensioned. I don't have a small Husky used for limbing, but my cutting partner does. We cut mostly almond, usually green and often heavily brushed, because the grower will forgo pruning the trees properly when he knows he going to take them out. The usual scenario for a dropped chain is a limb under tension and a slightly loose chain, often a new one that is just being run in and has stretched slightly. The limb twists or snaps as it is being cut and torques the chain enough to pop it off the bar. This has occurred five or six times in the past several years and each time it has happened on the Husky saws the chain drive teeth have been sufficiently damaged that the chain cannot be used until they are filed flat and the burrs from the drive sprocket removed. Don't get me wrong, it happens to me with the Stihl saws at about the same frequency, but doesn't damage the chain drive teeth. I use my 09 for limbing and small stuff and it's very sensitive to chain tension and I cut a lot of limbs under tension with it. It's an unavoidable scenario with the type of cutting we do, because the trees are either blowdowns or have been pushed over with a cat. This also happens on occasion when a cut limb breaks or snaps before the cut is complete. My partner tends not to undercut limbs, and I almost always do so, and I actually have more dropped chains on the 09 than he does with his Huskies.
A saw never throws a chain for no reason and it's usually avoidable if you pay attention and keep the chains properly tensioned. I don't have a small Husky used for limbing, but my cutting partner does. We cut mostly almond, usually green and often heavily brushed, because the grower will forgo pruning the trees properly when he knows he going to take them out. The usual scenario for a dropped chain is a limb under tension and a slightly loose chain, often a new one that is just being run in and has stretched slightly. The limb twists or snaps as it is being cut and torques the chain enough to pop it off the bar. This has occurred five or six times in the past several years and each time it has happened on the Husky saws the chain drive teeth have been sufficiently damaged that the chain cannot be used until they are filed flat and the burrs from the drive sprocket removed. Don't get me wrong, it happens to me with the Stihl saws at about the same frequency, but doesn't damage the chain drive teeth. I use my 09 for limbing and small stuff and it's very sensitive to chain tension and I cut a lot of limbs under tension with it. It's an unavoidable scenario with the type of cutting we do, because the trees are either blowdowns or have been pushed over with a cat. This also happens on occasion when a cut limb breaks or snaps before the cut is complete. My partner tends not to undercut limbs, and I almost always do so, and I actually have more dropped chains on the 09 than he does with his Huskies.
