Need some advice on echo 2511

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I had the saw tuned pretty good today until I messed with the L setting. Now it seems hard to restart if I shut it off , like 3-4 pulls. I will mess with the low setting some more tomorrow but wanted to ask where the idle screw should be when dialing in the low setting? I have always turned up the idle screw until the chain just barely starts moving then find the sweet spot for low setting and then adjust the idle as needed. I had the idle setting turned way up and could barely get the chain to move then it would start idling up and down up and down. Chain was not to tight so not sure. These little saws seem much more difficult to tune than my Stihl saws for some reason. I have read on other threads that these saws have a problem with hot start but couldn't find a solution. Anyone know if there is a cure for this or is it just the nature of the beast? Once my Stihl saws are warmed up they usually crank on the first pull. Any tips on tuning this little saw would be greatly appreciated.
Tooth size is a consideration on the smaller stuff. 3-4 sharpenings and the tooth is gone
The .043 3/8lp tooth is actually quite long and narrow - just as long as any other .050.
But it wont take a derailing like a .050. A .050 you can just put the chain back on and continue cutting, at .043 the sprocket might mess up the drive teeth so much it might no longer fit in the guide bar track.
That's why I recommend not using 14" or longer bars on top handles with the .043 chain, it derails more easily and it messes up the chain if it does.
At 14" or above and the .050 Stihl full chisel chain I would recommend a 35cc like the Echo 360T or Stihl MS200T - "minimum". I use that on my MS241cm at 42cc / 2,3kw.
Its not that you cant cut with a .050 chain at 25 to 35cc, it just doesn't cut smoothly like a bigger saw would.
Filing the chain without adjusting the rakers might help off course so you get a smaller raker depht.
I will mess with the low setting some more tomorrow but wanted to ask where the idle screw should be when dialing in the low setting?
At idle you adjust the low setting 1/4 at a time back or/and forth, at some point it wll lower rpm either rich or lean - you should be in the middle between those. Then, when you hit the trottle with a warm engine - it should accelerate effortlessly. If it lingers (starves), richen it a 1/8 or 1/4 turn out.
These little saws seem much more difficult to tune than my Stihl saws for some reason
Older saws usually is at about 1 turn open at both hi rpm and idle, my muffler modded Echo 360T is at between 4 and 4,5 turn at wot. I think it needed about 4,5 turns initially to limit the top rpm because it revs up considerably when hot. I cant remember the idle but my guess is its around 2 turns +-.
Makes for a more accurate adjustment, but perhaps twice the turns as an older saw.
This makes it more confusing because with a 1 turn carb you have the whole spectrum from rich to lean at 1/2 turn, but on some of the newer carbs you may not get a noticeable change when adjusting 1/4 turn.

You may get a service manual if you search for it and it may have the initial factory settings on the carb.
The 2511 low/idle settings seem a bit touchy, so I keep the idle speed up a bit. Not enough to move the chain though. I've never had an issue with hot (or cold) starts.
Thanks for the replys esean and link! Yes the older saws seemed much easier to tune but I think I got it dialed in now. The only problem is I could never get the saw to start 4 strokin no matter how much I adjusted the H screw. I can feel it have a slight miss through the vibration of the handle but not nearly as audible as my Stihl saws. I have some sort of air leak getting into the intake. If I put pressure on the handle or move it in any way the idle will go up and down. In the past this was always indicative of a torn intake boot but this is a brand new saw so not sure. I do remember when I was reinstalling the carb after removing the rev limiters that the fuel line slid on very easily and was not tight at all so maybe it is sucking air in through that? Unfortunately there is no chance for warranty work now as I have already altered the saw, so I am on my own.... This may be a contributing factor to why the saw was so hard to tune in the first place. Any of you guys experienced this?
Hey guys I have ran the 3/8 .050 chain on my 2511 and still think it needs something smaller. Anyone know which Stihl 14" chain would work? Wanting to try 3/8 .043. I realize I will need to change the bar but does the sprocket need to be changed if I step down to .043?