Need wood storage advice

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oneoldbanjo

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This is our first year with our OWB (Woodmaster) and I was lucky enough to find a reasonably priced metal 18x20 carport for wood storage that was a display model at a hardware store that was going out of business. I installed it right next to our woodburner and have it full of wood....and I thought all was well with the world.

Then the power company came along and decided that the right of way for the large powerline through our property needed to be widened from the 100 feet they had cleared when they built the lines to a full 150 feet - which is the full width of their easement. They cut the trees and chipped the brush and left me the wood to burn. Initially they were cutting the wood up into firewood length - but near the end when they got to the hills I asked them to stop cutting it into short lengths as I wanted to be able to drag it to areas where I could cut and stack it on flat ground. They also were not able to mulch up the brush on the hills as winter set in and the ground got wet and they promised to come back and clean it up later - and yesterday I met with the new company doing the work (The contract with the other company expired).

I need to stack the wood from these 200 some trees in a way that it can survive for several years and still remain good wood (I bet this is 5 or 6 years worth of wood for me - but I need to get it off the ground and stacked ASAP). For the wood that was left in long lengths I am planning on cutting it into lengths that I can pick up with my tractor loader (1,000 pound limit) and stack them on railroad ties. For the wood that was cut I was planning on getting pallets and placing them on the ground and stacking the wood on top of them - then fastening Tyvek to the top to keep the rain/snow off the wood while still allowing moisture to escape.

All ideas are welcome......I have never had to store so much wood for an extended period before. The wood is locust, Oak, Ash, Shagbark Hickory, some Cedar and Maple. I have attached a picture of the hillside that they cut when the wet weather arrived and they have not cleaned up the brush yet - and this photo only shows about 25% of the downed wood. It may be the middle of summer before they can get back in to clean up the brush. I am not sure how I will keep the weeds down so they can find all the brush - I can't mow it with all the wood they dropped.
 
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I think you've got the gist of it- keep it off the ground and covered, it should last a very long time. Keep in mind that log-length wood takes a long time to season, if you can get it to a point where you can block it up, it will dry faster. Railroad ties will be more than enough height to keep it off the ground and dry, cover it top-only and you're set.

Good score, I use a lot of "powerline" wood, mostly maple here but a mix of other woods too. Not to mention that it's a great spot for a food plot for animals, as long as the contractor doesn't brush hog it in July sometime!

I was just remarking to the Mrs. last night how nice it is to be a few years ahead and have quality seasoned wood.
 
The log length wood will be left to cut/split after I get the small stuff all burned up.

Well I don't feel like it was a "Good Score"....those trees were all on my property and I enjoyed having them as good looking trees. At the front of the property we now have a view of the road and neighbors that used to be screened by nice looking trees. I would have been much happier just burning the trees that blew down in storms or died from natural causes - we have 27 acres and the trees that die normally seem to provide enough wood to keep us warm. I didn't need to suddenly get 5 years worth of wood cut in a single month!
 
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"The wood is locust, Oak, Ash, Shagbark Hickory, some Cedar and Maple."
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Only the maple will "dry rot" and give up after two years or so, especially if its soft maple. The rest will last a very long time if stored dry. Eventually the bugs will get after your wood, but that takes several years if cut green.

Soft maple (such as silver maple and others) is the only wood in the list that will start to get punky after about two years, even if stored dry and covered. I usually burn soft maple after about 6 months of drying and use it to get the fire started quickly and to augment burning the denser woods, such as ash, oak, and locust. Maple is also a good fire rejuvenator when things start to smolder.
 
another thing is if you pile it up, don't let tall grass grow up around it. That grass just holds moisture and promotes decay.
The farther off the ground the better, and keep air flowing.
 
sounds like you have a good plan---I think keeping it off the ground is the best thing you can do
 
Good score !

Good score man ! The power company here where I live brings me wood all the time too ! You have some good storing advise from the pros for sure ! The only thing I could add is chop chop chop and chop some more ! Might ought to get some stacking buddies !
 
You got lucky they did it this time of the year. If the trees are cut down while the sap it down they will last for a long time(years and years) If they were cut with the sap up and you leave them in log form they will get real punk in the middle within 3 years usually. Do like you said and get them off the ground and all will be well.

Scott
 
I have been cutting wood from my brother in laws place that has been down for 3 years now. A lot of it when I cut into it I find that it is still semi green. I also just pulled a very large oak out of another ladies house that has been down for 7 years. The outside 3 inches of the tree was absolutly rotten. But the inner core was still green. Cut spit and stacked I got a full cord out of that tree and another cord out of another one on the other side of her property that was in the same shape.
 
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