I have seen a 576xpg with a low top filter even though the usual 576 has a high top. I have a 365xt and it has the low top and the filter works just fine.
New 372XP X-Torq, new to forum questions
- Thread starter malk315
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I have a 2171 , low top filter on it , no filter issues with it .
SierraNevada
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think the bar oil could run out before the gas even if you had it turned up all the way. I turn 'em all the way up on all my saws and have never run out of oil first on any modern saw. It's probably not necessary to do so, but I'm just doing my part to blow up the planet. Great choice of saw, and the 262 is worth fixing, 357 won't be any lighter even if they say only 12#, they're both around 13#. Good luck and be safe as possible!
Good choice in your new saw , I would say. Welcome to the forum--lots of knowledge and help can be found here. Once in a while you will even hear some opinions.
Ron
Ron
LumberjkChamp
ArboristSite Operative
Good choice in your new saw , I would say. Welcome to the forum--lots of knowledge and help can be found here. Once in a while you will even hear some opinions.
Ron
No opinions here.
P.S. Husqvarna 372's are the best saw ever made. Ever.
Oldtimer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Advice for all the Husky tall cover / element air filter peeps.
Go to the dealer, and get the "winter" filter and cover.
Much more low profile, and virtually never have to clean it.
EDIT: I guess I should have read page 2 here before relpying..oh well..
Go to the dealer, and get the "winter" filter and cover.
Much more low profile, and virtually never have to clean it.
EDIT: I guess I should have read page 2 here before relpying..oh well..
LumberjkChamp
ArboristSite Operative
So is the winter cover the shorter one? I assume so since you called it low profile. I'll be at the dealer on Saturday so I can follow up on it.
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John C
ArboristSite Member
I cut trees for a living and 90% of the time im running your exact saw...we have 4, 3 with 20" bars and one with a 24"...i personally am a Stihl guy, but i have no problems saying the 372xp is definitely one of the most reliable, rugged, kick a@# chainsaws on the market right now. Take it from someone who runs them about 30 hours a week...GREAT CHOICE AND WELCOME TO THE SITE...this place is the best.
John
Hopkinton, MA
John
Hopkinton, MA
Let us all know what you think of those new 372's after you get the chance to try em out.
Ron
Ron
Oldtimer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm sure that will work in your neck of the woods, but it would be an issue in much of our country IMHO.
Oldtimer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't know why it wouldn't work? Dust is dust, dirt is dirt, sawdust is sawdust...I've run them year round for a long time..my dealer said these pure nylon filters are good to go..?
Oldtimer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've used them for years, some days the dust was so bad I couldn't breathe. They are a very very fine mesh. I like the low-profile, and I like that they do not accumulate crap like the element filters do. It's not that they let it pass through, rather, they don't have any surface to stick to. The crap gets blown out like the air-injection intake is designed to do.
SierraWoodsman
ArboristSite Guru
You may want to consider the Husqvarna Tech-Lite bar if you decide to try the light weight bar option.
The 372 balances near perfect with a 28" techlite, and your back will thank you after a long day in the woods
as the reduced weight bars do make a differance. I have always kept the oiler turned to max and never run out of oil
before fuel. Beautiful Saw...She ought keep your CAD at bay...But only for a short while.
The 372 balances near perfect with a 28" techlite, and your back will thank you after a long day in the woods
as the reduced weight bars do make a differance. I have always kept the oiler turned to max and never run out of oil
before fuel. Beautiful Saw...She ought keep your CAD at bay...But only for a short while.
Officer's Match
Addicted to ArboristSite
You may want to consider the Husqvarna Tech-Lite bar if you decide to try the light weight bar option.
The 372 balances near perfect with a 28" techlite, and your back will thank you after a long day in the woods
as the reduced weight bars do make a differance. I have always kept the oiler turned to max and never run out of oil
before fuel. Beautiful Saw...She ought keep your CAD at bay...But only for a short while.
I'll second the Techlite if it's anything like the ES Light Stihl 28" I have on my 441C-M. I used it yesterday to clean up the top of a >100' Ash I dropped yesterday instead of my usual limbing go-to Jred 2153. Standing straight up and snipping stuff up on the ground was so easy to do, I may be hooked.
LumberjkChamp
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks OT. That's the one that came on my saw. I'll run it.
Different area, different trees = different results, it's not that hard to understand. I've used a few mesh filters and had buildup inside the filter and the carb/intake, most of the dust/sand comes from the crap in the bark not the wood itself IMHO. I've even had to oil a few felt filters to keep the grit out.
malk315
Running Saws for Therapy
Hey all-
Finally got to go out and play w/ the new 372XP today -- I doubled checked the oiler was on at least 3 turns out and right out of the gate felling a big oak she cut through the oak like an animal. I got used to the right pressure w/ dogs and bar buried to flush cut the stump (24" bar) flare at bottom of tree significantly bigger than bar and circled around and it's just got lots of power. Cut the whole thing into firewood and split a bunch of it w/ 30 ton splitter. I'm spoiled from cutting 12 large pines last year -- the oak is heavy stuff and a bear to move around the big pieces from the bottom of the tree (I'm a desk jockey / weekend warrior only)! I've got my other toy to help w/ moving wood -- Kioti CK-20 compact tractor w/ loader (very similar to Kubota B series). Bucket is handy for rolling over long sections of log to finish cuts w/o catching the ground. The 372XP probably goes faster through the oak than 262XP does going through the big pines. I couldn't be happier w/ the saw -- next stop will be to go cut up some more pine at the town ballfield for next years maple sugaring season.
I did have one minor issue w/ the saw today I'm guessing could be a common problem. There are some screws that must hold the top cover on the saw and I noticed one backed out significantly (like 3/4") and figured just tighten it -- then when I went to tighten noticed another one had backed out and was already lost
So I tightened up the one that was loose and finished the work today and will get a replacement from the dealer for the missing one.
My only question for you guys -- should I worried about having run the saw with one bolt missing and the other essentially doing nothing since it was on the verge of being lost too? I'm guessing no since the handlebar takes all of the pressure -- these two bolts appear to only hold the body on and aren't anything critical like cylinder bolts etc. I've got some pictures with one annotated -- the yellow arrow points to the missing one and the light blue arrow points to the one that was sticking up almost an inch that I tightened all the way back down. The seam of the cover these bolts hold wasn't separated or anything -- nothing would wiggle (top cover) so I'm thinking no big deal. I'll make sure there's lock washers on these for next time.
No mishaps today -- I always try to be safe and respect these really cool saws. Good therapy for us desk guys to use some of the stuff the pros use. I'll share w/ my brother as he still does tree work on the side from his main job working for a marine construction company. I'll be curious to see how he likes the saw and how fast he can get it to cut -- he can really crank with these. John C my brother worked for JT's Tree service out of Framingham for a few years in case you know of them. I'm not sure if they are still around today.
Here's the pictures of the bolts that loosened today (just the ones with the arrows. There's a third one on the other side and where there would be a fourth there is just the chain brake hinge. I checked that third one and it stayed tight.
Finally got to go out and play w/ the new 372XP today -- I doubled checked the oiler was on at least 3 turns out and right out of the gate felling a big oak she cut through the oak like an animal. I got used to the right pressure w/ dogs and bar buried to flush cut the stump (24" bar) flare at bottom of tree significantly bigger than bar and circled around and it's just got lots of power. Cut the whole thing into firewood and split a bunch of it w/ 30 ton splitter. I'm spoiled from cutting 12 large pines last year -- the oak is heavy stuff and a bear to move around the big pieces from the bottom of the tree (I'm a desk jockey / weekend warrior only)! I've got my other toy to help w/ moving wood -- Kioti CK-20 compact tractor w/ loader (very similar to Kubota B series). Bucket is handy for rolling over long sections of log to finish cuts w/o catching the ground. The 372XP probably goes faster through the oak than 262XP does going through the big pines. I couldn't be happier w/ the saw -- next stop will be to go cut up some more pine at the town ballfield for next years maple sugaring season.
I did have one minor issue w/ the saw today I'm guessing could be a common problem. There are some screws that must hold the top cover on the saw and I noticed one backed out significantly (like 3/4") and figured just tighten it -- then when I went to tighten noticed another one had backed out and was already lost
So I tightened up the one that was loose and finished the work today and will get a replacement from the dealer for the missing one.
My only question for you guys -- should I worried about having run the saw with one bolt missing and the other essentially doing nothing since it was on the verge of being lost too? I'm guessing no since the handlebar takes all of the pressure -- these two bolts appear to only hold the body on and aren't anything critical like cylinder bolts etc. I've got some pictures with one annotated -- the yellow arrow points to the missing one and the light blue arrow points to the one that was sticking up almost an inch that I tightened all the way back down. The seam of the cover these bolts hold wasn't separated or anything -- nothing would wiggle (top cover) so I'm thinking no big deal. I'll make sure there's lock washers on these for next time.
No mishaps today -- I always try to be safe and respect these really cool saws. Good therapy for us desk guys to use some of the stuff the pros use. I'll share w/ my brother as he still does tree work on the side from his main job working for a marine construction company. I'll be curious to see how he likes the saw and how fast he can get it to cut -- he can really crank with these. John C my brother worked for JT's Tree service out of Framingham for a few years in case you know of them. I'm not sure if they are still around today.
Here's the pictures of the bolts that loosened today (just the ones with the arrows. There's a third one on the other side and where there would be a fourth there is just the chain brake hinge. I checked that third one and it stayed tight.
