chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
IDK, i read on here that the HL bearings are junk and that would be enough for me to shy away from their other products. $58 for all that is too good to be true, IMHO.
New find from unlikely place: 026
- Thread starter rallen
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chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
gotcha. do you know when they switched over to the 44.7mm p/c's? for some reason i'm thinkin it was before the 260's came out, but i'm unsure.
rallen
ArboristSite Operative
So I decided to try the muriatic acid trick, combined with fine emery paper, to see if I could salvage the cylinder. The cylinder cleaned up alot better than I thought, enough to think about re-using it, but there are two minor defects left:
a. A long scratch from below the exhaust port to just above, but not intersecting it (just right of exhaust port). I polished it and can't feel it with my nail, but I can see a line and if I take a felt tip it will find it when drawn across.
b. A 1/4" scratch about 1/4" below the exhaust port (left corner of port in pic). This one I don't think is really going to matter, and again, I can't feel it with my nail, but the felt tip finds it.
Here are the before and after pics:
View attachment 220890View attachment 220891View attachment 220892
Will it be OK with that long scratch? Or should I just buy a new cylinder? I have never tried this before, and was kind of surprised that it came out as good as it did. Before I started the one side of the cylinder was very rough to the touch. Now, it feels the same as the smooth side.
a. A long scratch from below the exhaust port to just above, but not intersecting it (just right of exhaust port). I polished it and can't feel it with my nail, but I can see a line and if I take a felt tip it will find it when drawn across.
b. A 1/4" scratch about 1/4" below the exhaust port (left corner of port in pic). This one I don't think is really going to matter, and again, I can't feel it with my nail, but the felt tip finds it.
Here are the before and after pics:
View attachment 220890View attachment 220891View attachment 220892
Will it be OK with that long scratch? Or should I just buy a new cylinder? I have never tried this before, and was kind of surprised that it came out as good as it did. Before I started the one side of the cylinder was very rough to the touch. Now, it feels the same as the smooth side.
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
I think I would risk a piston on that cylinder. It is so hard to tell from a photo the actual situation so you'll just have to use your best judgement. Live and learn.
chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
i'd probably use it too
rallen
ArboristSite Operative
Decided to re-build the 026 and need advice...
So....I am going to go ahead and re-use that cylinder, and buy a piston. I can't decide if I will buy a Forester off of ebay or an NWP from Bailey's....they both seem similarly priced. I have read alot of good things about the Meteor pistons, and there are two people from overseas (Athens and Latvia???) who sell them with good ratings, but the Meteors are still a fair amount more, and I guess I rather buy locally. I also am taking into consideration that my cylinder is not perfect, and it is possible that I will go ahead and install this and find I have to still replace the cylinder.
So now I need some advice:
1. I pulled the piston off tonight and scraped off the old gasket. The wrist pin looked perfectly smooth so I am assuming that the cage bearing is OK. Is that a reasonable assumption, or do I need to replace that as well? They don't seem to typically be supplied with the piston kits.
2. The rod has a little bit of play back and forth but with these types of bearings am I correct in thinking its not a worry? Is there any reason to take this thing all the way down to the case, and split it? I will probably buy a gasket set though I might just buy the cylinder gasket from the local Stihl dealer. If I buy the set, it comes with the crankcase gasket as well as the crankshaft seals.
3. Should I replace the crankshaft seals? I have no idea what condition they are in. Is it a big deal to put them in? Any special tools, or can I make due with standard stuff? Is it a good idea to do them now, or does it not really matter since one can do them after the fact if I find I have an air leak?
4. Tank / Rear handle. This one has a crack across the back of the handle that someone used a small metal plate to through bolt it together. It works fine, and is not in the way of anything, but I can't stop thinking it would be better to just replace it. I see both used handle tanks and aftermarket handle/tanks (with a different looking tank vent) on ebay. Anyone have any thoughts one way or the other? Are the aftermarket ones decent? The price is almost the same as the used Stihl.
5. Will need to pick up a new air filter cover and should probably get a new engine shroud, though I at least have the one that came with it, with melt marks. Am I correct in thinking the same plastic works for both the 024's and the 026's?
Appreciate the whatever advice can be offered.
Robert
So....I am going to go ahead and re-use that cylinder, and buy a piston. I can't decide if I will buy a Forester off of ebay or an NWP from Bailey's....they both seem similarly priced. I have read alot of good things about the Meteor pistons, and there are two people from overseas (Athens and Latvia???) who sell them with good ratings, but the Meteors are still a fair amount more, and I guess I rather buy locally. I also am taking into consideration that my cylinder is not perfect, and it is possible that I will go ahead and install this and find I have to still replace the cylinder.
So now I need some advice:
1. I pulled the piston off tonight and scraped off the old gasket. The wrist pin looked perfectly smooth so I am assuming that the cage bearing is OK. Is that a reasonable assumption, or do I need to replace that as well? They don't seem to typically be supplied with the piston kits.
2. The rod has a little bit of play back and forth but with these types of bearings am I correct in thinking its not a worry? Is there any reason to take this thing all the way down to the case, and split it? I will probably buy a gasket set though I might just buy the cylinder gasket from the local Stihl dealer. If I buy the set, it comes with the crankcase gasket as well as the crankshaft seals.
3. Should I replace the crankshaft seals? I have no idea what condition they are in. Is it a big deal to put them in? Any special tools, or can I make due with standard stuff? Is it a good idea to do them now, or does it not really matter since one can do them after the fact if I find I have an air leak?
4. Tank / Rear handle. This one has a crack across the back of the handle that someone used a small metal plate to through bolt it together. It works fine, and is not in the way of anything, but I can't stop thinking it would be better to just replace it. I see both used handle tanks and aftermarket handle/tanks (with a different looking tank vent) on ebay. Anyone have any thoughts one way or the other? Are the aftermarket ones decent? The price is almost the same as the used Stihl.
5. Will need to pick up a new air filter cover and should probably get a new engine shroud, though I at least have the one that came with it, with melt marks. Am I correct in thinking the same plastic works for both the 024's and the 026's?
Appreciate the whatever advice can be offered.
Robert
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