New member 044 purchase

[Unchained]

Well I have been reading up as much as I can on mild modding of my saws but it is a little daunting to find the right info here searching. In the interest of cutting down on my searching would anyone be so kind to point me in the direction of a good how-to thread on MM modding my saws. It would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind searching but being new to this forum I am green as to who the go to guys are and hence it is hunt and pickup searching which is some what tedious.

 

[H 2 H]

Here is one for the MS 250 (just about the same as the 025)

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/208031.htm

 

[NORMZILLA44]

O.P I think you were refering to the 12mm or 10mm when you asked what mm means? If so milimeteres. MM in that case. Nice saw, later model for sure like mine was.

 

[longunner]

About identifying your saw if it's 10 mm wrist pin it will have a red kill switch bar. The 12mm models are spotted by the black kill switch bar.

 

[splitpost]

Ok; thats info I received from members here on AS

thats ok,just thought i'd clear that up

 

[Unchained]

O.P I think you were refering to the 12mm or 10mm when you asked what mm means? If so milimeteres. MM in that case. Nice saw, later model for sure like mine was.

MM= Muffler Modification

 

[Unchained]

About identifying your saw if it's 10 mm wrist pin it will have a red kill switch bar. The 12mm models are spotted by the black kill switch bar.

My saw is a black switch

 

[Unchained]

Here is one for the MS 250 (just about the same as the 025)

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/208031.htm

Thank you H2H much appreciated

 

[Umbellularia]

About identifying your saw if it's 10 mm wrist pin it will have a red kill switch bar. The 12mm models are spotted by the black kill switch bar.

Another quick visual test: Check the model plate on top of the saw and the Stihl nameplate on the left. If both are attached with metal rivets, it's a 10mm saw. If neither have rivets, it's a 12mm saw. If there are rivets on top but not on the side, then it's indeterminate. (And if there are rivets on the side but not up top, then someone's been swapping parts.) This test isn't foolproof as both the fan cover and top shroud can be switched.

 

[H 2 H]

About identifying your saw if it's 10 mm wrist pin it will have a red kill switch bar. The 12mm models are spotted by the black kill switch bar.

Another quick visual test: Check the model plate on top of the saw and the Stihl nameplate on the left. If both are attached with metal rivets, it's a 10mm saw. If neither have rivets, it's a 12mm saw. If there are rivets on top but not on the side, then it's indeterminate. (And if there are rivets on the side but not up top, then someone's been swapping parts.) This test isn't foolproof as both the fan cover and top shroud can be switched.

Mine was switched around it is a 10 mm and it has a BLACK master switch but it has rivets on the name plate

 

[user 64030]

Mine was switched around it is a 10 mm and it has a BLACK master switch but it has rivets on the name plate

With the age of these models.. it would not be unheard of for the saws to have some non oem parts...


dw

 

[StihlNAlberta]

Nice score!! I have an older 044 with the 10mm.wp and run a 28" bar with Oregon full skip chisel chain. 8t sprocket and .404 chain, and it rips! I find the .404 chain to work better and hold an edge better for the kind of cutting I do (a bit dirty at times).

I paid 425.00 for mine and its in great shape as well!

Cheers.