The Hermit
New Member
Hi, I've just joined the forum to ask a specific question, but can't seem to post a new thread. Perhaps I don't yet have the permissions but it would be nice to be able to find out what the restrictions are.
Anyway, I live in the Adelaide Hills in South Australia, and I cut firewood for myself and my neighbours. One neighbour is my best mate and has a a log splitter so we work together. Another neighbour has plenty of fallen wood and they are getting elderly so we cut and split for them also. And finally another neighbour has a tractor with forks so we work together sharing the labour and transporting the wood.
I have my baby Stihl and then I have my MS880. I bought the big saw to cut down some mature pine trees on my property, intending to onsell it when I was done, but found that I liked being able to cut a lot of wood, quickly. And now I cut a lot more wood, mostly for other people. The second hand saw came with only a 25" hard tip bar and 4 chains, so I bought a cheap bar and chains for less than the price of a genuine bar. False economy! Then I bought a sprocket tip genuine Stihl bar to suit the chains that came with the saw.
I've learnt the hard way that with a big saw you should only cut with a sharp chain and keep your bar dressed or you wear out the inside of the rails and start cutting J curves. That was a particularly hard problem to diagnose as I guess most people with big saws are professionals and learn this in their trade, and aren't on the forums asking why, and no-one seemed to have a video explaining this.
So now I'm buying a new and longer bar, given the size of the timber I'm cutting and the capability of the saw. Mostly I"m cutting river red gum that's fallen and dry, which is a very dense and hard wood.
And the question I"m going to ask when I get a chance, has anyone in Australia used the ProKut bars and is it worth paying twice the price ($220) for their platinum bar over their standard bar. Or would you just stick with a genuine Stihl bar?
Anyway, I live in the Adelaide Hills in South Australia, and I cut firewood for myself and my neighbours. One neighbour is my best mate and has a a log splitter so we work together. Another neighbour has plenty of fallen wood and they are getting elderly so we cut and split for them also. And finally another neighbour has a tractor with forks so we work together sharing the labour and transporting the wood.
I have my baby Stihl and then I have my MS880. I bought the big saw to cut down some mature pine trees on my property, intending to onsell it when I was done, but found that I liked being able to cut a lot of wood, quickly. And now I cut a lot more wood, mostly for other people. The second hand saw came with only a 25" hard tip bar and 4 chains, so I bought a cheap bar and chains for less than the price of a genuine bar. False economy! Then I bought a sprocket tip genuine Stihl bar to suit the chains that came with the saw.
I've learnt the hard way that with a big saw you should only cut with a sharp chain and keep your bar dressed or you wear out the inside of the rails and start cutting J curves. That was a particularly hard problem to diagnose as I guess most people with big saws are professionals and learn this in their trade, and aren't on the forums asking why, and no-one seemed to have a video explaining this.
So now I'm buying a new and longer bar, given the size of the timber I'm cutting and the capability of the saw. Mostly I"m cutting river red gum that's fallen and dry, which is a very dense and hard wood.
And the question I"m going to ask when I get a chance, has anyone in Australia used the ProKut bars and is it worth paying twice the price ($220) for their platinum bar over their standard bar. Or would you just stick with a genuine Stihl bar?
