New Saw Advice

[tla100]

Howdy, new to thew site and a wealth of info and advice. I have a ton to learn yet, that is for sure. Started heating the house with wood this past winter. Went well. Built a log splitter over the winter. I have been running hand me down saws, a Late 1960's Blue Homelite Super XL Automatic with 20" bar and a little Homelite Super EZ Auto mid 1970's. Dad and Grandpa's old saws. Both run well but getting a little tired. Getting stocked up this year on wood and cleared one grove already this year. With another coming up shortly.

Looking for a 60cc saw with a 20" bar to replace the Super XL. The Stihl dealer, 10 miles away, runs a Rent-All company, will service in-house. Echo dealer/service is within 15 miles. Husky is sold by chain hardware store but no in-house service. The Echo dealer is a great small engine shop and will fix anything.

Willing to spend $700 range. All models I looked at were similar price range from $450-575. Thanks for replies

 

[allaboutfishin]

A stihl 362 would be a fantastic saw. It's a pro saw so on the upper, I paid just over 7 for mine, but it's a pro saw so you have a little extra dependability and if you go with the m-tronic you can saw all day and no need to adjust the carb... Ever. Bottom line I love mine. As for the echo I'm not real familiar with their new stuff I have a couple old echos, one being a 750 so a little larger than the 60cc you're looking for that still runs great, but hands down my vote goes to the stihl!


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[TheJollyLogger]

Given your dealer situation, gotta say plus 1 on the 362

 

[remdawg]

I just bought the Echo CS-450p 45cc 18" bar and .325 chain. Love it. I shopped Stihl, Solo, Husky, Dolmar and Jonsered. Visited every dealer and held every comparable saw. The 5 year consumer warranty sealed the deal for me. Can't speak to the bigger Echo saws personally, but I am highly pleased with my purchase. I own an acre and a half in the middle of the woods that I am cleaning and clearing this summer. This saw is a nice balance of power to weight.

I have recently run a Stihl Farm Boss and loved it, but it was just too much saw for me to do anything more than fell a few trees. That saw would be great for you if you desire a near 60cc saw. Echo makes the Timber Wolf which is targeted directly at the Farm Boss market/consumer. If you are not a commercial operation, that 5 year comprehensive warranty (buy from reputable dealer) makes a big difference.

 

[rburg]

With a good Echo dealer close you might look at the 590, 600, or 620.

 

[remdawg]

Quality dealer set the saw up, filled it with fluids and test ran before delivery. Sold it at near MSRP and I couldn't find a better price online. Told me to come back after 20 hours use to have it fine tuned. No charge. Nice. Very important to have a solid dealer/shop behind you.

Am i alone thinking the poster doesn't need to spend $700 plus for a firewood saw?

 

[tla100]

Thanks for replies. I was leaning toward the MS362, how comparable is it to the 391? Price jumps about $150 but going to a professional grade and little less power, but plenty for what I will use it for

 

[allaboutfishin]

I had the same problem when deciding on a saw, but after many hours reading reviews on here all that I read pointed me to the pro saw if for nothing else the magnesium crank case. I also did like that it's a pound lighter, I don't think there's enough power difference to notice. I'm sure the 391 would be plenty of saw, but who am I to say since I went with the 362. Good luck deciding!

 

[CTYank]

One thing about $tihl- bucks up. Seriously though, they just don't compete on the basis of price.

If you're thinking seriously of Stihl 362, look at Dolmar 6100- $200 less. Buys a lot of bars & chains, and a great saw. And, if you believe Stihl power ratings, you'll believe anything.

Anyone who puts much stock in dealer availability or long factory warranties better have deep pockets. Few dealers stock parts any more, and some act as gatekeepers to keep warranty claims from going further. Good reason for me to DIY. Not rocket science.

 

[Grey]

MS362 for sure over the 391. You will never regret that $150. Love my MS 361. It's super reliable and will do anything from falling and bucking big hardwoods to limbing and trimming. I've run my neighbors stihl 391 and husky455 and these are very nice and serviceable saws, but the 361 cuts circles around them and never complains. As Ferris Beuhler once said "It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend it." However, if price is a high priority, sounds like the Stihl and Echo are great choices.

 

[7sleeper]

Quality dealer set the saw up, filled it with fluids and test ran before delivery. Sold it at near MSRP and I couldn't find a better price online. Told me to come back after 20 hours use to have it fine tuned. No charge. Nice. Very important to have a solid dealer/shop behind you.

Am i alone thinking the poster doesn't need to spend $700 plus for a firewood saw?

No! And you are absolutely correct that there is seldom a real need behind a bunch of firewooders using pro saws. It is more a want thing.

@tla100
Pricewise there is nothing near the power and build quality of the Echo 590 for ~400$!!! A pro saw(slightly detuned version of the 620) made for the firewooder. Everything in this price class from the other brands doesn't even come close. It is what you pay for a very well used pro saw from the major brands.

But in you situation I would be thinking of a chainsaw combo. I find the 40 & 60cc combo the best out there for the classic firewooder(heating his house and maybe a little more) guy. In that case I would add a 40cc saw to your purchase plan.

Don't underestimate the elcheapo wildthing or poulan in 40cc range. When well tuned they can cut quite an amount of wood and are an excellent buy. That would be enough in the lower range for a few years until the funds are well stocked again.

What would I buy? Dolmar 6100 and 421!!! 6100 is a pro saw for the price of a farmer saw from the major two (Stihl, Husqvarna) players. 421 is built like a pro saw made for the ambitious firewooder.

Then again I wouldn't exclude the farmer line from Husqvarna. The 555 is built almost identical to the 560 but you keep more money in your pocket.

good luck and don't forget ppe(=personal protection equipement = chainsaw chaps, etc.)

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[tla100]

I did a search and found out I have a Dolmar dealer at the local Implement Dealer, but not sure I want to give them business after a spendy 4 wheeler repair. May stop over and check out tho. I did check out the Echo's and was impressed. They said no issues getting warranty service done and haven't had many saws come back. The 600 looked like it would fit the bill pretty well.

 

[remdawg]

I did a search and found out I have a Dolmar dealer at the local Implement Dealer, but not sure I want to give them business after a spendy 4 wheeler repair. May stop over and check out tho. I did check out the Echo's and was impressed. They said no issues getting warranty service done and haven't had many saws come back. The 600 looked like it would fit the bill pretty well.

You had mentioned a desire for a magnesium crankcase in an earlier post and I know that my CS450P is a 3 piece mag/aluminum case. I am fairly certain that the larger saws in the lineup also employ metals for the crankcase. I have to tell you, I think these Echo saws are the real deal and from everything I read online, they are making a big impression among professionals.

 

[CTYank]

You had mentioned a desire for a magnesium crankcase in an earlier post and I know that my CS450P is a 3 piece mag/aluminum case. I am fairly certain that the larger saws in the lineup also employ metals for the crankcase. I have to tell you, I think these Echo saws are the real deal and from everything I read online, they are making a big impression among professionals.

Not to be picky, but I dare you to find a chainsaw with a crankcase that is NOT made of metal. Some saws, Stihls even, than have that metal crankicase bolted to a plastic chassis. Dolmar PS-6100 ditto. Not an issue, IMHO.

 

[remdawg]

Not to be picky, but I dare you to find a chainsaw with a crankcase that is NOT made of metal. Some saws, Stihls even, than have that metal crankicase bolted to a plastic chassis. Dolmar PS-6100 ditto. Not an issue, IMHO.

No worries here. I am a total amateur armed with the internet and my own perception. So educate us. What is the difference in Pro crankcases and Farm/Ranch crankcases and homeowner crankcases. And the chassis they mount to? Must be something?

 

[CTYank]

No worries here. I am a total amateur armed with the internet and my own perception. So educate us. What is the difference in Pro crankcases and Farm/Ranch crankcases and homeowner crankcases. And the chassis they mount to? Must be something?

Generally, the more serious saws have crankcases that are separate from and bolted to the cylinders. Cylinder can be pulled while leaving the bottom-end in place- a big plus on a couple of counts.

If anywhere, the most significant differences between the categories of saws is in the internals of the cylinders, the gas flow passages. Big difference in manufacturing cost from "wild thing" to pro quality, partly from the cylinder coating or absence of. A useful clue here is the rpm where the power peaks. Many cheapies are ~9K, whereas many "pro" saws are ~10k. Uncoated bores won't do 10k for long.

Modern engineering plastics have really come a ways, and in some ways are superior to metal castings, such as the ability to take a "hit".

Some pro-quality saws are much more accessible for repairs/service than are the cheapies. Some are simply inscrutable, like MS-441C. Some homeowner saws, like MS-250 are like that too, and have bar studs that are threaded into PLASTIC rather than "core" casting.

"Pro" saws are generally a tool for extraction of cash, with some noteworthy exceptions including RedMax, Dolmar and Echo. "Pro" quality does not necessarily mean crazy-expensive or Rube Goldberg-over complicated, but it implies good engineering & manufacturing.

The only clue source for me as to quality & value has been my ears and eyes- largely reading and hearing what people I respect have to say about the various products. Then as possible I verify that for myself. Part of what I'm trying to say above is that generalities are wicked hard, and on occasion making up your own mind as to what works for you- like the smallest saws I have.

 

[tla100]

I talked to a different Echo dealer today a little farther away. He said he would tune it new, then told me to bring back after about 10 tanks to get re-tuned. Other dealer said nothing about it even when I asked them. He also sells Husky and recommended the Echo over the Husky 365. Sooo, I may pull the trigger on the Echo CS600-P or the 620 in a few weeks. He also said they are tweaking the 680's and the 8000's for next year.

 

[remdawg]

Generally, the more serious saws have crankcases that are separate from and bolted to the cylinders. Cylinder can be pulled while leaving the bottom-end in place- a big plus on a couple of counts.

If anywhere, the most significant differences between the categories of saws is in the internals of the cylinders, the gas flow passages. Big difference in manufacturing cost from "wild thing" to pro quality, partly from the cylinder coating or absence of. A useful clue here is the rpm where the power peaks. Many cheapies are ~9K, whereas many "pro" saws are ~10k. Uncoated bores won't do 10k for long.

Modern engineering plastics have really come a ways, and in some ways are superior to metal castings, such as the ability to take a "hit".

Some pro-quality saws are much more accessible for repairs/service than are the cheapies. Some are simply inscrutable, like MS-441C. Some homeowner saws, like MS-250 are like that too, and have bar studs that are threaded into PLASTIC rather than "core" casting.

"Pro" saws are generally a tool for extraction of cash, with some noteworthy exceptions including RedMax, Dolmar and Echo. "Pro" quality does not necessarily mean crazy-expensive or Rube Goldberg-over complicated, but it implies good engineering & manufacturing.

The only clue source for me as to quality & value has been my ears and eyes- largely reading and hearing what people I respect have to say about the various products. Then as possible I verify that for myself. Part of what I'm trying to say above is that generalities are wicked hard, and on occasion making up your own mind as to what works for you- like the smallest saws I have.

Nice information! I shied away from the Stihl MS250 because of hearing/reading that it was built with a lot of plastic. Which, as you mentioned, isn't necessarily bad, but...

 

[7sleeper]

There is a over simplification quoted very often that saws are rated in saw life in the following: homeowner saws 500hrs, farmer/semi pro saws 1000hrs, and pro saws 1500hrs. Of course saw life always is connected to service. If you take of your equipement or abuse your equipment is always up to you. Most homeowners/firewooders will never see the natural death of a homeowner saw with proper maintenance. It is simply a myth of AS that you cannot cut wood with a homeowner saw.

The typical reason for early saw death is no oil in the gas, plugged air filter, old 2 stroke mix(typically from last year or older), dull chain or plugged cooling fins.

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[treesmith]

This isn't meant to bias anyone either way but it's interesting that here in Australia the vast majority of second hand saws I'm seeing for sale are Stihl, all ages from 08s from the year dot through 051s etc to modern stuff. There really are so few second hand saws of any other make