new stihl 361

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R Walter said:
I've got a 361 and it burns through wood like a house afire without any mods. I don't really get all this modding business. Seems kind of overkill.

I suppose its like souping up cars, trucks and so on. That I do get. [smile].
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I'm with you... maybe the muffler, but I really can't see the logic in the rest. But who says it's logical? :)
 
I don't think it has a thing to do with logic - especially since I seem (according to my wife) to be incapable of the standard kind:

11 horses, 9 dogs, 8 saws- nuff said

However, I am picking up the saw tomorrow, and I will try it out and see what I think- then go from there. I bought it to fill the gap below my 440, so a mod probably doesn't make sense but...

then again, I might do it anyway:)
 
shucksters said:
IHowever, I am picking up the saw tomorrow, and I will try it out and see what I think- then go from there. I bought it to fill the gap below my 440, so a mod probably doesn't make sense but...

then again, I might do it anyway:)
Click to expand...

I'm told a modded 361 is similar in power to a 440 but it's obviously lighter, and that is the point Dean is trying to make...

What little I feel qualified to say is that you will notice a pretty big difference in the 361 between the power it has out of the box and after it is broken in, all stock. I still would like more (who doesn't) but it really doesn't run bad at all once it's broken in.

The other mistake I made was listening to my father about the rakers, he was used to running the old torquers and filing the rakers down pretty good. I did that on Stihl RS on my new 361 and it was horrid to run, stalled the chain by looking at a tree wrong. These new saws are high RPM saws, they cut fast by passing as many cutters through the wood as possible in a certain amount of time, not by taking huge hunks of wood out. It's like the difference between the 351 V8 in my truck and my wife's little 4 banger Neon. Set the rakers to no more than .025" to .030", maybe possibly going up to .035" as the cutters near the end of their life. The stock 361 cuts straight, smooth and fast in hardwood with the rakers set right.
 
The stock chain rakers are set pretty good for 'green' wood of almost any type. But, if you are cutting 'dead' wood that is brick hard, then you may see powder coming out of the cut instead of chips. In this latter case, you must take the rakers down if you expect to do any serious cutting. Been there, done that.:bang:
 
I picked it up today- took it easy with it on some soft wood- I am amazed at how good it cuts- I'm already in love with it. I'm going to break it in stock and go from there. What a great saw!!!
 
R Walter said:
I don't really get all this modding business. Seems kind of overkill.

I suppose its like souping up cars, trucks and so on. That I do get. [smile].
Click to expand...
Well, i thought the same way. Why would i need a modded saw. Then i went to the ohio gtg this april and WJ's and Gypo said heres our saws run what you want. Darn their hides. You will never be happy with stock after the experience of running a modded saw.
 
Shuck,

I ran mine at modest power for the first two or three tanks, then ran it full out from then on. The good book says it will not reach full power until about 15 tanks run through it. So enjoy.
 
shucksters said:
3 tanks break in- then run it normally- got it- thanks!

Sam
Click to expand...

Don't be afraid to use it while breaking it in. Run it full throttle in the cut, cut what you want and so on. Don't rev it out of the cut and I'd be careful with sustained cuts. Use it like a saw is meant to be used, but be gentle about it.

Open that muffler up afterwords. This saw responds especially well to a simple muffler mod.

Jeff
 
West Texas said:
The stock chain rakers are set pretty good for 'green' wood of almost any type. But, if you are cutting 'dead' wood that is brick hard, then you may see powder coming out of the cut instead of chips. In this latter case, you must take the rakers down if you expect to do any serious cutting. Been there, done that.:bang:
Click to expand...

My experience has been different in dead wood. Bone dry elm, beech, ash and sugar maple are most of the dead wood I have cut so far. These are not punky, but dead and dried out and still very solid. If the cutters are razor sharp and the rakers are at about .030" it takes smaller chips out, but chips just the same and it cut quickly. The elm was so dry it sounded like bowling pins or kids' building blocks when you knocked it together. You know how tough that stuff is. It was standing dead dutch elm disease killed, bark had all fallen off.

Now, what I thought was dry may not have been dry for Texas... :)
 
West Texas said:
Well I'm 76 and I've seen it rain; but, my boy hasn't. :buttkick:
Click to expand...

God bless Texas. That is the best quote I have heard in years. As long as you are not in a dry county, I'd buy you a beer. Hell, maybe two!

-Mike
 

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